Back with a M900 series I - Page 7

Darkness · 06-07-2015, 09:50 PM

Is that another elefant on the twist grip body?

Another original bit.

Albie · 06-07-2015, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkness

Is that another elefant on the twist grip body?

Another original bit.

They are everywhere. On the wheels too.

Can I ask a question on the wiring around the starter cabling to a relay. There is a relay that's been wired into it and no connector but there has been a piece cut in, Does yours have some kind of connector and what does it look like so I can replace it. Its 2 cables.

Darkness · 07-07-2015, 07:19 AM

I'm working away all week, but I'll have a look at the weekend.

Pedro · 07-07-2015, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Albie

They are everywhere. On the wheels too.

Can I ask a question on the wiring around the starter cabling to a relay. There is a relay that's been wired into it and no connector but there has been a piece cut in, Does yours have some kind of connector and what does it look like so I can replace it. Its 2 cables.

Post a pic of what you're looking for, tank is off mine at the min so I can snap a ref pic for you

Albie · 07-07-2015, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedro

Post a pic of what you're looking for, tank is off mine at the min so I can snap a ref pic for you

Of course

Thanks to my coffee table it fits

Here is the lead cut in the purple and black one which goes to a thin blue and black to the harness and the other end goes to 2 blacks on what looks like a starter relay.

Albie · 07-07-2015, 09:48 PM

I found out tonight from Pedro that the wheels should be Gloss Black not satin. As it goes that's a result as the shop had gloss black in abundance so that's what they will be tomorrow night.

After sitting outside on a not so warm night and a shower I was fettling all the flaking paint off the oil cooler. No damage to be concerned about anywhere and the blocked veins were cleared very carefully with hot water and a small cable tie fed through in and back and washed constantly and flushed again and again.

Just a little more degreasing and picking in areas under the brackets and can have a light respray over the veins and more on the casing.

Pedro · 07-07-2015, 10:29 PM

Looks like your harness has just been repaired perhaps fried or just damaged. That is the starter relay

Albie · 08-07-2015, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedro

Looks like your harness has just been repaired perhaps fried or just damaged. That is the starter relay

Yes I thought it had been replaced that relay. I will just get a 2 pin connection and solder a pair of cables and tidy it up.

Albie · 08-07-2015, 10:38 PM

Disaster struck the paint. The same manufacturer of paint in gloss reacted with crazing in a few places. Not given up them and will strip and powder coat.

Albie · 09-07-2015, 08:21 PM

Thought about stuff all day and last night was looking into removing cush drives. I got home with an open mind to continue the black paint, I rubbed down the crazing and actually the rear wheel turned out not so bad in the end but I could have improved it better and that's where the could have stays as the front I did the same and then painted the back. The cast spoke bodys crazed up and that was enough for me to say lets get stopped and do these properly.
Ok so bearings removed front and rear. One of the fronts is smooth as new and one was like a ratchet. Bothe rears although they were rusty in the bores were smooth but will be replacing all 4.
I will also get the spacers replated as they are now out.
Finished the oil cooler in a nicer silver and looks very good now and also rubbed down the black horn and is now painted silver too.

I said earlier I was studying the search forum for removal and also spoke to Scrapps today for advice as he changed some last year or so ago.
It worked to a degree as removed the centre and the outers would not come out at all. Nothing left for me to do than try drilling the rubbers out and had a go at trying to get behind the outer so it would bend in and possibly come out. So far no joy and given up for tonight.

I think its dremel time to thin the inside wall down to almost collapse and then they can go off for powdercoat and if the costs ok will do also the rear hoop as paint is not as robust.

So now costings are going up with a pair of tyres and powdercoat and bearings and cush drives.
Theres £300 in one hit.

Needed.
Tyres x 2
Wheel bearings x 4
Steering bearings x 2
Cush drives x 6
Throttle cables x 2 push and pull
Brake pads front and rear
Braided black complete full lines and clutch
Clutch plates
Frame painting and seat cowl
Wheels and suspension hoop and levers powdercoated
All plating of parts
Parts to be shotblasted and naturalised foot pegs and hangers and fork yokes and brake hanger .

tricolore · 09-07-2015, 09:01 PM

I always fancied doing an early 900M with white frame, black wheels, white lettering with yellow hoop like the 1992 888 ...... don't know why just fancied it, one day !!

Dirty · 09-07-2015, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Albie

I said earlier I was studying the search forum for removal and also spoke to Scrapps today for advice as he changed some last year or so ago.
It worked to a degree as removed the centre and the outers would not come out at all. Nothing left for me to do than try drilling the rubbers out and had a go at trying to get behind the outer so it would bend in and possibly come out. So far no joy and given up for tonight.

I think its dremel time to thin the inside wall down to almost collapse and then they can go off for powdercoat and if the costs ok will do also the rear hoop as paint is not as robust.

https://youtu.be/1PZd0G28ruA

Albie · 10-07-2015, 09:15 PM

After the epic FAIL in even getting 1 cush drive out yesterday and drilling the centres out after giving up. I cleared the rubber out as good as possible and tried the dremel attack but wasn't getting very far and ended up pushing one further down.
Got my engineering head on and watched a video and couldn't quite see how he was getting them out but I realised that there is a gap about 8mm at the bottom. If I could somehow get something to expand under and slidehammer it would be easy. I did think about making a tool but that's madness when you want them out now but if the idea helps others I am happy.
I got a long M10 bolt so the head would sit under the bottom of the cush drive. 2 side by side would fit so I needed something to pack the difference and used a socket and then retained it with a couple of strong washers and a nut. With that holding firm I could then attack from the rear through the disc brake side and had a nice surface area to tap through. A few sharp drifts and they all came out and they annoyingly were clean as a whistle but I had to finish the first one with a hacksaw and gradually lever it out. Some minor damage will clean up ok but finally they can be get given to specialists to apply a good finish.

Horn is done in silver now and not black and oil coolers looks decent too.

I have the task of cleaning the carbs up now as best I can without stripping down any further.

Dirty · 10-07-2015, 09:44 PM

https://youtu.be/1PZd0G28ruA

Albie · 13-07-2015, 08:22 PM

After a little progress over the weekend generally cleaning more parts from the bike and finding some old parts that may be useful if I cannot easily repair threads on lock stop on lower yoke as I have a 1997 one to hand in A1 condition.

The parts bucket is now full and piled in as many useful bolts and nuts and washers I could clean up in case they help out. I also managed to get the correct size hanger bolt for free as to the one Slob kindly donated to me but larger hole. It will still get re-plated and be offered to anyone who needs one as a freebie.

I have coming a nice pair of throttle cables from ebay to replace my usable but tired coating ones. I may also have a better pair of early exhausts tonight for £20-25 if Mart64 manages to do a deal that will need less work than mine to clean up but I will still finish them as these ones will be M600 ones. I do believe they will fit the same if not I will have pair for sale soon. All the rod ends should arrive shortly and have already got the steering ones here. Just need the wheel ones and cush drive ordered.

This afternoon I got Al from Pro Team Ducati asking if and when he should piclk up my engine to go to the hospital of engines in Surrey. I said after work I will drop it in so lifted the unit into the back of my car and dropped it down. My original plan was to get all the bolts plated before but tbh it doesn't matter really as it will be stripped, assessed and works carried out and then will come back to Al and then I can paint and get bolts off to plating and then will go back to Al for further service work ie belts and he can tighten it all up when all fresh.

It may be 1 -2 months for the engine work which gives me time to get frame painted and wheels done but they are due to be taken in 2 weeks time. So around a month turnaround back to me.

It also gives me time to build my bike table for rebuilding them on. I already have the frame cut and just need some plates welded on the U section so it can be bolted and unbolted if needed and can work on top of my bike lift to lower it down at a sensible height for the ramp to be used.
I just need to figure out a wheel chock or clamp system to keep a bike steady once rolling.

06-07-2015, 09:50 PM	#91
Darkness . Join Date: May 2007 Location: Stockbridge Bike: M900 Posts: 1,984	Is that another elefant on the twist grip body? Another original bit. __________________ Original and Best since 1993

07-07-2015, 07:19 AM	#93
Darkness . Join Date: May 2007 Location: Stockbridge Bike: M900 Posts: 1,984	I'm working away all week, but I'll have a look at the weekend. __________________ Original and Best since 1993

07-07-2015, 09:48 PM	#96
Albie Fanactical volunteer Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kent Bike: M900 Posts: 9,034	I found out tonight from Pedro that the wheels should be Gloss Black not satin. As it goes that's a result as the shop had gloss black in abundance so that's what they will be tomorrow night. After sitting outside on a not so warm night and a shower I was fettling all the flaking paint off the oil cooler. No damage to be concerned about anywhere and the blocked veins were cleared very carefully with hot water and a small cable tie fed through in and back and washed constantly and flushed again and again. Just a little more degreasing and picking in areas under the brackets and can have a light respray over the veins and more on the casing. __________________ http://albies93m900.blogspot.co.uk/

07-07-2015, 10:29 PM	#97
Pedro Ciao, come stai? Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Somewhere Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 4,158	Looks like your harness has just been repaired perhaps fried or just damaged. That is the starter relay __________________ Monster 1200R! KTM 990 SuperDuke

08-07-2015, 10:38 PM	#99
Albie Fanactical volunteer Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kent Bike: M900 Posts: 9,034	Disaster struck the paint. The same manufacturer of paint in gloss reacted with crazing in a few places. Not given up them and will strip and powder coat. __________________ http://albies93m900.blogspot.co.uk/

09-07-2015, 08:21 PM	#100
Albie Fanactical volunteer Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kent Bike: M900 Posts: 9,034	Thought about stuff all day and last night was looking into removing cush drives. I got home with an open mind to continue the black paint, I rubbed down the crazing and actually the rear wheel turned out not so bad in the end but I could have improved it better and that's where the could have stays as the front I did the same and then painted the back. The cast spoke bodys crazed up and that was enough for me to say lets get stopped and do these properly. Ok so bearings removed front and rear. One of the fronts is smooth as new and one was like a ratchet. Bothe rears although they were rusty in the bores were smooth but will be replacing all 4. I will also get the spacers replated as they are now out. Finished the oil cooler in a nicer silver and looks very good now and also rubbed down the black horn and is now painted silver too. I said earlier I was studying the search forum for removal and also spoke to Scrapps today for advice as he changed some last year or so ago. It worked to a degree as removed the centre and the outers would not come out at all. Nothing left for me to do than try drilling the rubbers out and had a go at trying to get behind the outer so it would bend in and possibly come out. So far no joy and given up for tonight. I think its dremel time to thin the inside wall down to almost collapse and then they can go off for powdercoat and if the costs ok will do also the rear hoop as paint is not as robust. So now costings are going up with a pair of tyres and powdercoat and bearings and cush drives. Theres £300 in one hit. Needed. Tyres x 2 Wheel bearings x 4 Steering bearings x 2 Cush drives x 6 Throttle cables x 2 push and pull Brake pads front and rear Braided black complete full lines and clutch Clutch plates Frame painting and seat cowl Wheels and suspension hoop and levers powdercoated All plating of parts Parts to be shotblasted and naturalised foot pegs and hangers and fork yokes and brake hanger . __________________ http://albies93m900.blogspot.co.uk/ Last edited by Albie; 09-07-2015 at 08:28 PM..

09-07-2015, 09:01 PM	#101
tricolore Registered User Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Birmingham Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 227	I always fancied doing an early 900M with white frame, black wheels, white lettering with yellow hoop like the 1992 888 ...... don't know why just fancied it, one day !!

10-07-2015, 09:15 PM	#103
Albie Fanactical volunteer Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kent Bike: M900 Posts: 9,034	Nightmare over After the epic FAIL in even getting 1 cush drive out yesterday and drilling the centres out after giving up. I cleared the rubber out as good as possible and tried the dremel attack but wasn't getting very far and ended up pushing one further down. Got my engineering head on and watched a video and couldn't quite see how he was getting them out but I realised that there is a gap about 8mm at the bottom. If I could somehow get something to expand under and slidehammer it would be easy. I did think about making a tool but that's madness when you want them out now but if the idea helps others I am happy. I got a long M10 bolt so the head would sit under the bottom of the cush drive. 2 side by side would fit so I needed something to pack the difference and used a socket and then retained it with a couple of strong washers and a nut. With that holding firm I could then attack from the rear through the disc brake side and had a nice surface area to tap through. A few sharp drifts and they all came out and they annoyingly were clean as a whistle but I had to finish the first one with a hacksaw and gradually lever it out. Some minor damage will clean up ok but finally they can be get given to specialists to apply a good finish. Horn is done in silver now and not black and oil coolers looks decent too. I have the task of cleaning the carbs up now as best I can without stripping down any further. __________________ http://albies93m900.blogspot.co.uk/

10-07-2015, 09:44 PM	#104
Dirty Bockloks Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: London Bike: No Bike Yet! Posts: 4,601	https://youtu.be/1PZd0G28ruA __________________ Wounds heal, chicks dig scars, glory lasts forever Beware of eBay

13-07-2015, 08:22 PM	#105
Albie Fanactical volunteer Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kent Bike: M900 Posts: 9,034	Engine has gone to Hospital After a little progress over the weekend generally cleaning more parts from the bike and finding some old parts that may be useful if I cannot easily repair threads on lock stop on lower yoke as I have a 1997 one to hand in A1 condition. The parts bucket is now full and piled in as many useful bolts and nuts and washers I could clean up in case they help out. I also managed to get the correct size hanger bolt for free as to the one Slob kindly donated to me but larger hole. It will still get re-plated and be offered to anyone who needs one as a freebie. I have coming a nice pair of throttle cables from ebay to replace my usable but tired coating ones. I may also have a better pair of early exhausts tonight for £20-25 if Mart64 manages to do a deal that will need less work than mine to clean up but I will still finish them as these ones will be M600 ones. I do believe they will fit the same if not I will have pair for sale soon. All the rod ends should arrive shortly and have already got the steering ones here. Just need the wheel ones and cush drive ordered. This afternoon I got Al from Pro Team Ducati asking if and when he should piclk up my engine to go to the hospital of engines in Surrey. I said after work I will drop it in so lifted the unit into the back of my car and dropped it down. My original plan was to get all the bolts plated before but tbh it doesn't matter really as it will be stripped, assessed and works carried out and then will come back to Al and then I can paint and get bolts off to plating and then will go back to Al for further service work ie belts and he can tighten it all up when all fresh. It may be 1 -2 months for the engine work which gives me time to get frame painted and wheels done but they are due to be taken in 2 weeks time. So around a month turnaround back to me. It also gives me time to build my bike table for rebuilding them on. I already have the frame cut and just need some plates welded on the U section so it can be bolted and unbolted if needed and can work on top of my bike lift to lower it down at a sensible height for the ramp to be used. I just need to figure out a wheel chock or clamp system to keep a bike steady once rolling. __________________ http://albies93m900.blogspot.co.uk/ Last edited by Albie; 13-07-2015 at 08:25 PM..