My M900 Project...

They were moved when I moved around some photos. If anyone wants any specific pics I can put them up. Will probably do some before/after photos of various bits once I know it's running...

Hi all.
So its been a while since i've posted, been so busy. Anyway, it passed the MOT with flying colours and I have done about 200 miles since with absoltely no problems. The only issue was a little oil mist but I nipped the oil hoses a bit more and now its fine.
Here are a few more pics:
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One of the best things I changed was upgrading the starter cables. I did it very cheaply buying the bits myself and soldering it all up. Another was the oil cooler cover. I bought some ali mesh which I cut up and formed around the rad, then secured with lock wire.
I also machined some tophat components so I didnt have to fork out on footrest bolts:
[IMG][/IMG]
I also sanded the writting off of the reservoir caps and powder coated them which turned out good:
[IMG][/IMG]

Another thing I would say is that dont give up on clutch slave cylinders. You could replace yours with an aftermarket unit which is bling and requires less force or you could refurb the old one. I wasnt worried about the force as I have strong hands. Mine leaked badly but I stripped it and gently polished the corrosion out of the bore. I bought a new seal for £3, rebuilt it and it works fine now.

So thanks for everyones help. This is such a great forum and I'm glad to be a part of it. I hope to make it to one of the rideouts and meet some of you. Please feel free to pm me with any questions, I would be more than happy to help...

[Albie]

Looks stunning. Very envious right now. Enjoy the rest of the nice weather. Top marks.

Just a question you saying about footrest fittings. So easy and cheap to clean up and replate. I don't blame you though making some.

Can I ask whether the tyres are Michelin pr2 or 3 or just pr and is the rear if so a 180/55

PS I think your tank clip is 180 degrees out of rotation. Curve should go with tank. Just saying ;-)

[Davy]

There's the reason why I love Ducati monsters.. Fantastic looking well done

[Darren69]

Great job, looks very nice. I think the furry thing on your handlebars is non standard though!

Yeh the foot rest bolts were such a mess. I knackered a few getting them off as they had seized... I had the tools available so I just made some.

The tyre is just a 170 pilot which was on it when I picked it up. Still nice and tacky and I did'nt want to buy a new set as I the rebuild may not have come together quite as well.

Haha good spot on the tank clip. I reverse engineered and had the middle section of the bracket andhad it grown out of nylon as the old one fell apart. I wasnt sure which orientation was correct!

Thanks for all the nice comments...

Thats my little good luck charm, courtesy of my mum. Had one on every bikes so far...

[slob]

That looks really tidy, good work.

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by ibanezlynx

Thats my little good luck charm, courtesy of my mum. Had one on every bikes so far...

Must be lucky then if from Mum! I can't help but think the footrest bolts would look that little bit better as polished stainless dome heads, maybe that's just me being picky though.

Otherwise a very nice build very sympathetic to the original with some sensible mods, its nice to see one that's not been choppered to bits.

I didn't realise until I read somewhere the other day that the original Monster was the first mass production bike to actually have proper 'real' carbon parts fitted as standard.

[Mr Gazza]

Originally Posted by Darren69

I can't help but think the footrest bolts would look that little bit better as polished stainless dome heads,

It says A2-70 on the bolt heads so I guess that makes them Stainless already.

I put most of my S/S bolts in my cordless drill and presented the heads to my sanding disc, with both spinning.
Once the letter stamps were gone i put them to the polishing mop, still spinning in the drill....worked a treat.

Oh yeah...very nice build Ibanezlynx..

[Darren69]

And what Gary doesn't know about polishing isn't worth polishing really. He knows his stuff but with domeheads they probably won't be stamped, I don't think. So won't need more than a light buff with your linishing wheel, more's the shame. He knows I'm joking of course! I'm actually in the process of getting stainless replaced with Titanium so I' one to talk?

[Mr Gazza]

Hex head bolts don't usually come with a dome head, but there are dome nuts which, as you say are not stamped.
Some of the more decorative bolt heads, such as button heads, don't always have stamps, or sometimes they may have extra small discreet stamps

Those flanged head bolts would grind to a slightly domed face, or rather a very slight radius on the otherwise flat face of the head, once the stamps have been removed.

It does tend to make the hex part shallower, so greater care must be taken with the spanner/socket...This is no good if a highish torque is required. In which case another head style should be used.

Come to think of it button heads would look rather nice on the footrest hangers with those nice top hats.

http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/..._SHBtn_M8.html

Don't use these for disc bolts though, they won't take the torque required.....As I found out..!!

[Darren69]

You need something like these for disc bolts:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUCATI-916...item1ea4a10094

I have similar sets on both bikes.

[Mr Gazza]

Ibanezlynx, Please don't be offended by our comments about your bolt heads..
It's a smashing re-build in every way...I think we've been quite rude.. Sorry.

Apologies also for hijack.
I personally wouldn't use those A2-70 bolts Darren. I tried A2-70 button heads on my discs, but chewed the heads out before I reached 25nm.
I asked the supplier if I had chosen the wrong bolts for the job.
They said this;

"Hi Gary

Thanks for your email and I'm sorry about the problems you appear to be encountering with the A2-70 bolts.

Firstly, may I express a word of caution in using stainless steel bolts for strength-critical applications such as motorcycle brake discs.
As I'll outline below, the tensile strength of standard stainless fasteners is significantly inferior to carbon steel fasteners.

I've just looked up the torque settings for M8 A2-70 bolts which is 17Nm, so you would be very likely to round off the sockets if torqing up to 25Nm.

There is also a common misconception that A4 stainless fasteners are stronger than their A2 equivalent and have a similar strength to 8.8 carbon fasteners.

The difference between A2 and A4 stainless is not its mechanical properties but its chemical composition. A4 is generally for marine applications where its extra corrosion resistance is required for the constant splashing of corrosive salt water. A2 provides sufficient corrosion resistance for most applications.

Our A2 fasteners are A2-70 grade. The 70 signifies that the Ultimate Tensile Strength is at least 700 N/mm^2. More importantly: the stress at which A2-70 begins to yield is at least 450N/mm^2. A4-70 has exactly the same ultimate tensile strength and yield stress.

Standard carbon steel fasteners are generally 8.8 grade. The first figure signifies that the Ultimate Tensile Strength is at least 800N/mm^2. The second figure signifies that the fastener will begin to yield at 80% of the Ultimate Tensile Strength, ie at least 640N/mm^2.

To get similar strength stainless fasteners you would require A2-80 or A4-80 where the yield stress is 600N/mm^2. There are significantly fewer of these on the market as A2-70 are sufficient for the majority of applications. In practice fasteners generally fail due to the excess load applied to them when they are assembled not when used in operation.

So, if you are replacing 8.8 carbon steel fasteners and you are certain you want to use stainless products, then I would recommend that you purchase our A4-80 fasteners for your disc bolts.

I hope that this makes the situation clear. Please email me if you have any further questions.

Many thanks

Matt Naish "

I couldn't find A2-80 button heads. He came back with this;

"Hi Gary

No problem at all.

I guess that's the main problem you'll face:- socket button screws are the best fastener type for the job but they're very hard to come by in A4-80 (A2-80 is almost impossible to find).

As you suggest, this leaves you with cap screws as the only real option from us (I'm not sure if the heads will clear the fork/brake assembly on rotation?) or you can risk using A2-70 or A4-70 as many other motorcyclists do!

I'm certainly extremely scepticle of doing this (hence my previous email!) and I'm not going to recommend doing this, but it's not at all uncommon.
In fact Inox Fasteners advertise A2-70 specifically as brake disc bolts!

My best suggestion would be to try specialist motorcycle fastener suppliers to see if they have sources of the less common bits like A2 or A4-80 button heads, or order the cap heads from us to test them as you can always return them for a full refund if they're no good.

I'm sorry that I'm not able to help more.

Many thanks

Matt Naish

Westfield Fasteners Ltd
www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk
enquiries@westfieldfasteners.co.uk
01844 201133"

In the end I used high tensile steel 10.9 BZP button heads.
With a light polish they look like s/s.

No offence taken...
I'm quite happy with the bolts to be honest. If at some point I'm twiddling my thumbs I might remove the marking. But I have other things to sort out. Next on the list is tidying up the front mudguard and the underside of the tank (little spots of surface rust).
I'm just pleased with the lovely comments.
In terms of this rebuild, any braking or suspension replacement fasteners have been high tensile BZP... Not worth risking it...