Slow Monster rebuild

[utopia]

Nope, I haven't tried them .. and after your comments Darren, I probably never will.
But I did consider them a while back.
At least they can be fitted and removed in seconds so they could be regularly removed for cleaning.

Tbh, I think the best solution might be to fit a 916 style mudguard which has integral stanchion guards as part of its construction.
For me, the trouble with them is that they are a little short at the rear and allow too much road debris to hit the engine.
I've been messing around with trying to extend one at the rear, but its a bit tricky to do as too much weight at the back compromises its rigidity and makes it bounce around a bit too much.
My current thinking is that, by using a single brake line to one caliper and a short crossover line to the other, I might be able to retain a bit more rigidity (from the crossover line) .. my current set-up has the two independent lines as per normal monster layout.

[Darren69]

I considered them too, but I think they look awful and unless you're dispatching or something probably unnecceasry. I think you're right the 916 style guard has good protection from stones, more than the standard monster guard but its too short (maybe add a fender extender, although some of those look pretty horrendous too at least the one I bought for thestandard monster guard).

Personally I've had no issues with leaks or stone chips on the Showa forks on either the 748 or Monster in 15 +years and many 1000's of miles riding and although the fork seals on both have been changed maybe once or twice in that time, it has not been due to leaks just due diligence when fitting new springs or changing oil and such and in the case of the Monster I also noticed the dust seals were perished but still no leaks.

Save your money and just keep them clean.

[350TSS]

Darkness: machining the hubs would be my least favourite option, besides I have no idea who locally could put a wheel in a lathe - I sure I will be able to rectify (bodge?0 with spacers somewhere in the system.
Alan S4: balancing is an issue I agree, probably worse with lighter wheels as most imbalance come from the overlap when they lay the tread on the tyre carcass. Usually I have found that a new tyre has a mark showing the heaviest point but not on these Michelins, there was however a stuck on bar code right near the bead and I put this opposite the valve. I may make up a static balance frame and spin the wheels for hours watching where it stops or I might not bother and worry about it if I get any vibration.

[350TSS]

Darren: as for work of the devil, fitting gaiters may encourage indolence - generated by all that free time I will have not changing fork seals or pitted stanchions.
On what planet is it good engineering practice to expose highly polished and precision ground chromed steel components to grit /salt and water - I do like a controversy
I suspect that gaiters were lost when an accountant not an engineer decided there was more profit without them on new bikes, no first cost and lots of extra spare part sales. They became "fashionable" like that and we are where we are today.
My maxtonised forks owe be best part of a bag of sand so £9 to protect them is money well spent - if I can get them to work with the mudguard mounting.

[350TSS]

Just noticed I have joined the 500 club

[utopia]

I balanced mine static, using some simple kit that fits to my paddock stand.
First I found the heavy point on the bare wheel and marked its position with a little dot of vinyl tape.
I couldn't find a definite indication of where the heavy point on the Michelin PR3 tyre was, so I left the cable ties on for a while and checked the balance like that.
Then, since the cable ties were still in place (and knowing where the heavy point on the bare wheel was), I could rotate the tyre on the rim and then recheck the balance, observing how the balance point shifted as a result.
Gradually I was able to establish the point where the tyre was least out of balance on the wheel.
I then removed the cable ties, fitted the tyre in this position and finish-balanced it.
Despite all this, I still needed 20g of balance weight on the rear wheel and 15g on the front.

I would say that, whether or not you can feel an imbalance, its well worth balancing all wheels (other than on trials bikes perhaps), particularly after having shelled out on carbon ones.
My last rear tyre (a PR2) needed 70 or 80g to balance it (though admittedly, this was not when it was new but was following a repair with a mushroom plug).
And that was using the same technique to minimise the amount of balance weight needed.

[mickj]

I agree that both tyres should be balanced but many tyre centres now only do the front. I do all my own tyre changes and have a wheel balancer so I just need to come up with a way of balancing the rears.

[Kato]

These are easy to use, a little slower than a tire shop but just as good

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-To...f~jJ:rk:5:pf:0

[mickj]

They can be had for a lot less than £79, that's taking the ****.

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by mjgt

I agree that both tyres should be balanced but many tyre centres now only do the front. I do all my own tyre changes and have a wheel balancer so I just need to come up with a way of balancing the rears.

If you can balance the front why not the rear?

If it's because of the single-sided wheel setup there are adaptors available that work with the large hole through the wheel - I have one for my 916 rear wheel, best of it is it also works with conventional wheels as it's basically just a larger cone.

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by 350TSS

Darren: as for work of the devil, fitting gaiters may encourage indolence - generated by all that free time I will have not changing fork seals or pitted stanchions.
On what planet is it good engineering practice to expose highly polished and precision ground chromed steel components to grit /salt and water - I do like a controversy
I suspect that gaiters were lost when an accountant not an engineer decided there was more profit without them on new bikes, no first cost and lots of extra spare part sales. They became "fashionable" like that and we are where we are today.
My maxtonised forks owe be best part of a bag of sand so £9 to protect them is money well spent - if I can get them to work with the mudguard mounting.

I agree in theory they are a good idea but from my practical experience on bikes with them fitted to conventional forks they are a dirt and moisture trap. Besides which with USD forks they are ugly and for the most part I think uneccessary. You need to protect the chrome from stones etc but water and dirt will fall down away from the seals I don't think fashion or cost has much to do with it they are simply not required. Ohlins forks maybe need some more protection as they are prone to blow seals but Showas from my experience are robust enough to cope.

Ohlins stuff seems especially fragile as my rear shock is now in need of a rebuild after 2 years light use but he Sachs shock I replaced it with was still good after 15 years or more and many 000's of miles.

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by Darren69

I agree in theory they are a good idea but from my practical experience on bikes with them fitted to conventional forks they are a dirt and moisture trap.

Agreed, I bought an old Ducati Scrambler many years ago. It had been standing outside for some time and the fork gaiters were completely full of water - so much for keeping moisture out...

[350TSS]

Seems i started something with the gaiter idea?
As for wheel balancing I bought one of these - rude not to at the price.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycl....c100010.m2109

[mickj]

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

If you can balance the front why not the rear?

If it's because of the single-sided wheel setup there are adaptors available that work with the large hole through the wheel - I have one for my 916 rear wheel, best of it is it also works with conventional wheels as it's basically just a larger cone.

Where did you get the adaptors to fit a single sided wheel?

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by mjgt

Where did you get the adaptors to fit a single sided wheel?

This is what I've got;

https://www.mandp.co.uk/abba-single-...l-adaptor.html

https://www.abbastands.co.uk/product...adapter&pid=24

Works fine with a 916 rear wheel, can't say for certain if big enough for the larger hub (6-bolt hub/sprocket) bikes which I believe a 1200S is? as the 916 is the smaller 5-bolt hub.

The cone is 60mm at it's widest so provided the hole is no larger then it should be good.

Action pics;