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11-04-2018, 06:22 PM

A bit stuck on a couple of bits...

Disconnecting the throttle cables from the carbs.
Is there a way of doing this without bending the gold bracket?... It looks like a bitch to get at.. And once at it I can't see an obvious way to get the pins out without bending the carrier

The neutral switch.... Looks easy to get out.... But I just can't get at with a spanner or a socket...
.... Any advice?

350TSS · 11-04-2018, 07:08 PM

All I can say is that with the engine out and the swinging arm off it is a piece of cake with a cranked 13mm ring spanner, probably not much comfort for you though

Albie · 11-04-2018, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davkyt

A bit stuck on a couple of bits...

Disconnecting the throttle cables from the carbs.
Is there a way of doing this without bending the gold bracket?... It looks like a bitch to get at.. And once at it I can't see an obvious way to get the pins out without bending the carrier

The neutral switch.... Looks easy to get out.... But I just can't get at with a spanner or a socket...
.... Any advice?

You don't have to bend any metal to get cables out. Just get all the slack off and unlock the lock nuts etc. You have to rotate the cam to a point where you can slip the nipple and cable through the slot.
Regarding neutral switch I never removed mine and just masked it up and cleaned and painted with it intact.

11-04-2018, 08:09 PM

Thanks... I'll give the cables a closer look, I thought it looked similar to the one on the seat catch (which I bent to get off)

Whilst messing with the neutral switch I accidentally snapped the cable..... So need to get it out to fix now 😂.... I don't fancy £50 for a new one.

Did you dismantle the engine at all? Just looking at the cylinders and they look pretty fiddley to get at to sand and paint

Quote:

Originally Posted by Albie

You don't have to bend any metal to get cables out. Just get all the slack off and unlock the lock nuts etc. You have to rotate the cam to a point where you can slip the nipple and cable through the slot.
Regarding neutral switch I never removed mine and just masked it up and cleaned and painted with it intact.

Darren69 · 11-04-2018, 08:09 PM

Did I say before the neutral switch was fiddly to get out?

Probably can be masked up and painted without removing it anyway.

Darren69 · 11-04-2018, 08:11 PM

Too late, yup the wires break off dead easy but it is easier to get out then.

11-04-2018, 08:18 PM

You did indeed lol.....
Thinking about it... If I snap the second wire off I can get a socket on easy ��

Albie · 11-04-2018, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davkyt

Did you dismantle the engine at all? Just looking at the cylinders and they look pretty fiddley to get at to sand and paint

Yes initially the engine went away complete to have the crank sorted out and 2nd gears were replaced as were worn on one side because of crank bearings. It came back to me then I removed heads and barrels etc and after valves , cams etc removed they went for vapour blasting. Whilst they were being done I cleaned up bottom end by hand and etch primed and sprayed silver and lacquered. Barrels were heat resistant black matt and heads are bare vapour blasted finish. Cam covers are a sort of dark olive green colour with the Ducati exposed metal finish and lacquered.. Inlet tubes also vapour blasted along with yokes and rear sprocket drive.

Darren69 · 11-04-2018, 08:50 PM

the neutral switch on my '02 S4 is in 2 parts (the plug part and the wire) so you can just plug the wire in after you fit the plug which is easier. Don't know if the plugs are the same though.

19-04-2018, 08:36 AM

A bit more removed. Just the swing arm and front end to come off now

utopia · 19-04-2018, 11:52 AM

Dunno whether I've said this before but ... the swingarm bearings are an absolute pig to remove.
If they're ok, I would consider leaving them alone and just replacing the outer seals.
If they're not ok, I would recommend getting someone with the correct kit and experience to replace them.
It really is a tricky job and you'd have to buy a blind bearing puller anyway, which is £40 down the tubes even for a cheap one.
Remove the swingarm by all means, but ponder the bearings carefully.

Nasher · 19-04-2018, 12:06 PM

Yep, what Utopia says on the swingarm bearings., they are a pain to change.

Difficult to get out, and difficult to push in without damaging the new ones.

Note they are much easier to do with the crankcases split for internal engine work, so worth doing if you have them apart even if you think they are not required at that point.

Nasher.

03-05-2018, 07:10 AM

Not far to go before I can start I to start painting...
The only problems I've had so far is bits seizing to the swing arm. And a couple of perished fuel lines.

03-05-2018, 09:34 PM

Almost there..... Just the stem to get off, but it won't budge.
Any tips? I've had the breaker bar on it with no joy.
I've loosened the pinch bolt and moved the bars aside. The forks are still attached..

Albie · 03-05-2018, 09:53 PM

Are you saying you cannot undo the top bolt. You say you've undone the yolk clamp pinch bolts top is 5 bolts inc the one in centre that's awkward to get at and 4 bottom pinch bolts. Just a decent spanner got mine off. I'm sure you could replace anyhow but not nice to ruin it. Impact driver on socket would be my last resort before grinding off. Probably best to keep the forks in as that will keep weight on the stem. Heat is the only other suggestion I guess before grinding then hoping the rest of the bolt comes out the centre stem.

11-04-2018, 06:22 PM	#61
davkyt Guest Posts: n/a	A bit stuck on a couple of bits... Disconnecting the throttle cables from the carbs. Is there a way of doing this without bending the gold bracket?... It looks like a bitch to get at.. And once at it I can't see an obvious way to get the pins out without bending the carrier The neutral switch.... Looks easy to get out.... But I just can't get at with a spanner or a socket... .... Any advice? Last edited by davkyt; 11-04-2018 at 06:40 PM..

11-04-2018, 08:09 PM	#65
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,091	Did I say before the neutral switch was fiddly to get out? Probably can be masked up and painted without removing it anyway. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

11-04-2018, 08:11 PM	#66
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,091	Too late, yup the wires break off dead easy but it is easier to get out then. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

11-04-2018, 08:50 PM	#69
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,091	the neutral switch on my '02 S4 is in 2 parts (the plug part and the wire) so you can just plug the wire in after you fit the plug which is easier. Don't know if the plugs are the same though. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

19-04-2018, 12:06 PM	#72
Nasher Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Portsmouth Bike: M900 Posts: 1,518	Yep, what Utopia says on the swingarm bearings., they are a pain to change. Difficult to get out, and difficult to push in without damaging the new ones. Note they are much easier to do with the crankcases split for internal engine work, so worth doing if you have them apart even if you think they are not required at that point. Nasher. __________________ Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over.

11-04-2018, 07:08 PM	#62
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	All I can say is that with the engine out and the swinging arm off it is a piece of cake with a cranked 13mm ring spanner, probably not much comfort for you though

11-04-2018, 08:18 PM	#67
davkyt Guest Posts: n/a	You did indeed lol..... Thinking about it... If I snap the second wire off I can get a socket on easy ��

19-04-2018, 08:36 AM	#70
davkyt Guest Posts: n/a	A bit more removed. Just the swing arm and front end to come off now

19-04-2018, 11:52 AM	#71
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,559	Dunno whether I've said this before but ... the swingarm bearings are an absolute pig to remove. If they're ok, I would consider leaving them alone and just replacing the outer seals. If they're not ok, I would recommend getting someone with the correct kit and experience to replace them. It really is a tricky job and you'd have to buy a blind bearing puller anyway, which is £40 down the tubes even for a cheap one. Remove the swingarm by all means, but ponder the bearings carefully.

03-05-2018, 07:10 AM	#73
davkyt Guest Posts: n/a	Not far to go before I can start I to start painting... The only problems I've had so far is bits seizing to the swing arm. And a couple of perished fuel lines.

03-05-2018, 09:34 PM	#74
davkyt Guest Posts: n/a	Almost there..... Just the stem to get off, but it won't budge. Any tips? I've had the breaker bar on it with no joy. I've loosened the pinch bolt and moved the bars aside. The forks are still attached..

03-05-2018, 09:53 PM	#75
Albie Fanactical volunteer Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kent Bike: M900 Posts: 9,034	Are you saying you cannot undo the top bolt. You say you've undone the yolk clamp pinch bolts top is 5 bolts inc the one in centre that's awkward to get at and 4 bottom pinch bolts. Just a decent spanner got mine off. I'm sure you could replace anyhow but not nice to ruin it. Impact driver on socket would be my last resort before grinding off. Probably best to keep the forks in as that will keep weight on the stem. Heat is the only other suggestion I guess before grinding then hoping the rest of the bolt comes out the centre stem. __________________ http://albies93m900.blogspot.co.uk/