Slow Monster rebuild

[slob]

Are you using a separate flux? I would never rely on the flux in the rod, this will help impurities rise out of the molten metal but won't really draw the braze exactly where you want it, you're relying on capilliary action alone.

[350TSS]

I started this morning spending an hour tittivating the engine with the nylon brush, going over places I had already done just to improve the finish. It was an hour well spent but I had to stop when my last nylon brush started slinging its bristles in my face. I wanted to take the belt covers and belts off to get at the motor behind but I am rapidly running out of space and I didn’t have a box to put them and their retaining screws in. It is amazing how much space a stripped-down motorcycle takes up. Probably need to have one of my periodic tidy ups as there are boxes all over the floor and when I want a particular part I spend too long looking for the right box.
I moved onto brazing the brackets onto the frame and I spent 3 hours not doing very well. Only one good joint resulted for all this effort, I really do not know what I am doing wrong.
Then the gas ran out.
For the sake of my sanity and in the interests of finishing this bike before I get put in a box, I decided to MIG weld the brackets on. I always wanted to braze the brackets on because when it is done right the joints just look nice and my MIG welding looks like bird **** (mostly due to operator incompetence but I blame the welder which only has 3 wire feed speeds and 3 current settings and to be frank the slowest speed, lowest current wouldn’t weld 22swg).
An hour and a half later all brackets robustly fastened to the frame.
On a roll and feeling confident with the MIG welder I then spent some time tidying up some of my previous welding (coil brackets and rear cross brace). It is now a long way from perfect but much better that previously.
Chased up my wheels again today and after three cycles of “7 to 10 more days” I think they should be with me next week.
Slob:
Only using flux that comes stuck around the rod. The puzzling thing is I have made some lovely looking and strong joints and I can make some nice looking but useless joints but today I was making crap looking and no strength joints. I will try and get some separate flux which must be cheaper than the cost of the gas I am wasting.

[350TSS]

A good day today with some strong progress.
I found these really useful for cleaning up the remains of the brackets removed from the frame, not as aggressive as a grinding disc and flexible so better able to cope with maintaining a round profile on the frame. They are however too aggressive for removing the paint from the frame.



I managed to get the outer steering head bearing tracks out of the frame without any drama and ordered some new ones from Simply Bearings.

I drilled and tapped the two rear frame rails to take 5 mm grub screws to retain the aluminium plugs which provide a mounting point for the number plate hanger.

I drilled out the pop rivets for the aluminium ID plate and welded up the holes then ground them back.


The SA then went into the blast cabinet and after about an hour came out OK.


The frame is too big for the blast cabinet so I did it outside, downside is total loss of sand and grit everywhere on my person, shoes even underpants. I was expecting the frame to be relatively easy, as I remember soon after I got the bike I jet washed it (I used to clean it regularly once a year whether it needed it or not) and aiming it at the frame below the tank I was horrified to see about 75mm or bronze paint wash away.
Unlike the engine paint the frame paint was just not shifting and my rather asthmatic compressor was complaining and getting hot, the drive belt slipping and screaming. I spent about an hour and a half at this and gave it up as a bad job and will get it done professionally.

Score at the end of the week 3 jobs planned – none 100% completed, however engine about 60% ready for paint, frame about 85% complete, wiring not touched, nevertheless I feel I had a solid week.

[350TSS]

Second picture is wrong above should be this one

[350TSS]

Just opened the box - could not believe how light they were, finish is not much better than acceptable ( not super high gloss and there is evidence of mold lines on the spokes). Overall very pleased - not ecstatic.

Originally Posted by 350TSS

Just opened the box - could not believe how light they were, finish is not much better than acceptable ( not super high gloss and there is evidence of mold lines on the spokes). Overall very pleased - not ecstatic.

When I got my 916 forks back from Maxton the anodising was the same - ok but not great but I put this down to old scabby tubes that really were past it, still mildly annoyed that they didn't try and tidy them up like they said.

[350TSS]

Not nearly as much progress as I would have liked this week.
First, the compressor drive belt broke (not really surprising given the hammering it has had whilst using the sand blaster) so I had to spend an hour or so getting the old one off. The compressor is sited under a bench in the corner of the garage and the bench and everything on it has to be moved to get to the belt.
I tried to use the Dremel to clean up the hard to reach places on the motor, but the little tools (wire brushes, small abrasive drums etc.) were cheap and only lasted about 5 minutes each so I had to bite the bullet and order (and pay Dremel prices) for a new set. Consequently, only minimal progress on preparing the engine for painting as the Dremel accessories are not due here until next Tuesday.
I very nearly finished preparing the frame for sending off to the powder coaters. Basically, this involved cleaning up where I removed brackets and grinding/sanding down rather poor looking welds I made on the rear cross member and the coil bracket and filling any holes with braze to get a smooth finish.
Worrying a bit about the estimated number of hours still to do to finish the project and the fact that if I put in 20 hours in a week I only manage to lose about 10 hours off the estimate list. This is either inefficient working or bad estimation or both.
I thought about how I could reduce the total work in front of me and decided that modification of 4 of the CF moulds would mean that I could avoid making split moulds for the air scoops. The existing design has parallel sides and would require the mould to be split to get the finished product out. Cost in time would be an extra 2 hours filling and rubbing down but 8 hours off the estimate list making the mould dividers. The finished shape has not been compromised too much so worth doing – progress of sorts.

[350TSS]

Spent today tidying up and re-organising all the bits in boxes, got distracted a few times, first I found the grease nipple I bought so I thought I might as well fit it to the swinging arm pivot casting at the back of the crankcase. First, I drilled a 2mm hole with the drill smothered in grease to catch the swarf, then measured the depth and took the hole out to 5mm but not breaking through into the spindle void, then a 6mm plug tap also smothered in grease. A copper washer was annealed and put under the 9mm hexagon head of the grease nipple to take up the slight curvature of the crankcase. The washer was then rubbed on emery to reduce its thickness to allow the nipple to point in the direction I could get a grease gun on it when it was fully tightened.


I got my small brass brushes for the Dremel to finish off all the awkward places on the crank cases but I got distracted again and sorted out my Dremel small tools which have been strewn all over one part of one of my benches. One Celebrations box, some 9mm ply jig sawed to fit and a 3.5mm drill – Sorted.


Whist boxing up the other stuff I came across a magnet I bought to put on the sump plug which I shall machine from 25mm hex aluminium bar. The standard internal hex sump plugs are notorious for stripping and are difficult to wire up. The magnet is small but very strong and with a 3mm threaded stud at the rear it should not go AWOL in the sump.

[utopia]

Missed your earlier post about the wheels.
Sorry, I should have mentioned the obvious mold lines on the spokes but tbh, I just see them as manufacturing evidence, not visual defects .. much like an undressed weld in aluminium has its own charm.
So it didn't really cross my mind.

Its all about getting them spinning though.


On the Dremel tools, one item that I have found absolutely invaluable for dressing welds in either aluminium or steel is a Dormer carbide rotary burr, in a kind of acorn shape.
Mine is still pretty sharp after dressing every single, spattery weld on my Honda Dominator frame ... and you wouldn't believe how many of them there are on those frames, not to mention a couple of my own attempts.
They're not cheap but they are certainly worth it.
I got this shape/size from these people.... AOSwKBRavhbQwww.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dormer-809633-6-3mm-x-3mm-Solid-Carbide-Rotary-Bright-Burr-Oval/232174179550?hash=item360ea8d4de:g:CIMA

[350TSS]

Today I have mostly been driving to Great Yarmouth and back to drop my frame and swinging arm off at the powder coaters (as recommended by Mr Gazza). They are due to be ready for collection in 10 days
When I got back I filed the tangs on the Suzuki clutch driven plates so they would fit inside the stainless-steel band that encircles my alloy clutch drum. 96 separate bits of filing but aluminium so not that difficult just a bit boring.

Next, I thought I would get the belts covers, belts and inner covers off. I bought the proper 2 part tool for the cam nuts and these came off relatively easily (with an 18” breaker bar).
I am not sure if I could or should re-use the cam pulley retaining nuts, they are undamaged in the removal process but look as though they have a self-locking design where the chamfered ends are made to grip the camshaft spindle thread.



The inner vertical cylinder belt cover was broken/perished and had obviously been that way for some time given the amount of crud/fine gravel inside the belt cover. If anyone has a spare one they do not want I will send beer vouchers, otherwise epoxy resin will be pressed into action.

The biggest problem I have, not yet solved is the removal of the cam belt idler bearings. Both are corroded on the surface that presses against the smooth side of the belt and by the feel of it the horizontal probably has corrosion in the track. They sit on a peg with a 10mm flat ground on the end. I tried my best Britool open ender on them and neither was budging. I tried a sharp tap with a hammer on the ends of the shafts and finally I got my blow lamp out and heated the aluminium around where the shaft is threaded into the barrel – still no joy.
Since the bearings are now definitely scrap as the blow lamp did for the seals I think I will try welding a 12mm/14mm nut to the shaft and unscrewing it that way.

[Darren69]

IIRC I think I've seen places selling stainless camshaft nuts. which I assume would be reusable. Just don't ask me where but maybe Kaemna or somewhere like that?

[utopia]

I took one of mine off and reused it on my 750.
That was 20k miles ago.
But I'm not necessarily recommending it .. just it was fine in my case.
Dunno whether reuse is approved or not, I'm afraid.

[350TSS]

Thanks I think I will re-use the cam shaft nuts with a little bit of soft-ish Loctite on the threads, even if they come undone I doubt whether the pulley would migrate off the shaft as the shaft is approx 20mm long and the belt would tend to hold the loose pulley in line. Also the nut would hit the belt cover before coming off and would make a noise.

[Dukedesmo]

I've had all the camshaft nuts off both of my Ducatis (at least once) and not had any problems re-using them, a dab of loctite will help if you're concerned.

[slob]

Last time I bought camshaft nuts they were £4.72 each: risk v reward... I'm happy to spend fifteen quid for peace of mind.
Having seen slipped belts eating themselves as they saw a groove in the belt covers :-O