Parking it up for the winter.

[FrankenDesmo]

Rode it last night just to see if I could 'blow it out' - no dice, same behaviour. Pulled the plugs - front cylinder black (ever so slightly wet looking at one point around the rim of the thread), top cylinder white/grey on the ground electrode.

It does pull incredibly strong if it's half throttle+, from pretty much any point in the rev range, but mostly past 4k once it's cleared the rough part of the range. Honestly this bike is so much more powerful than my previous two - feels like it'll power-wheelie in second! My first M900 must have been down on power due to high mileage aswell as being one of the soft 'W' head lumps. The S2R800 must just be a softie all round.

Carbtune has turned up, along with a new fuel filter, however I didn't order the nipple caps at the same time but with any luck they'll turn up today as well. I can then at least fit the nipples, which have fresh seals, and cap them to make sure I'm eliminating the vacuum leak. I've got myself a long PH2 screwdriver, so I'm ready to attack the sync.

Failing that, this does (from my limited knowledge) seem like an air leak somewhere, but it doesn't otherwise seem to be in the intake runners - has anyone else come across leaks in other places? Or at that point should I seriously consider stripping the carbs?

[FrankenDesmo]

Since this problem has blown up a bit and wont seem to go away, I've started another thread for it in the Engine section http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58189

[FrankenDesmo]

Since stripping & cleaning the carbs, I left the bike at the point of running with just a wee bit of tuning required. Then lockdown was announced and it went back in the shed.

Took it out again a couple of days later for a run to the supermarket only to discover that it wouldn't start - looks like the starter button was stuck in the last time I rode it. The solenoid wasn't clicking, so assumed I'd finally fried it as it's been sticking occasionally. No bother, thought I, as I have already acquired a replacement. I though I'd try a jump start off the car just to be sure, only to discover that the solenoid _does_ click (and a full charge of the bike battery causes it to click as normal, too).

However, the starter does not turn. So I connected jumper leads from the battery to the starter directly and got a definite turn out of it. So the solenoid is (allegedly) working and the starter is (allegedly) working.

Oh well, I've always wanted to do that wiring upgrade, and I am in lockdown after all...

So I've ordered a few bits and pieces: Exact Start cables, starter brushes/terminal, solenoid (already had that), oil, filter, and other sundry materials.

With any luck it'll be starting better than ever.

I've also ordered a replacement spring for the sprag clutch, just in case, but I didn't think about the tools I'd also need for that (torque wrench, flywheel puller, etc), so I'll hang onto the spring until such time as I need to replace it or have the tools and inclination to get in and do it.

On top of the starter circuit upgrade, I've also got some minor side-mods on the go:
- Replaced the mirrors with bar-end type (looking much better without the added height of the mirrors)
- Which also meant I needed a mount for the brake reservoir (and discovered that the mirror mounts are M10 _fine_ pitch, which ACCU don't stock - eBay to the rescue!)
- Replace the PCV system with a K&N crankcase filter (I don't do wheelies so this shouldn't case me any problems)
- Remove the side-pods and re-route the hoses somewhere out of the way of any wind turbulence
- I've already replaced the headlights with a stock unit (w/ Carbonvani bucket), but I need to align it

Once I've got it back together and running again I can fettle the pilot screws & needle clips to hopefully smooth out that part-throttle transition in the middle of the rev range. Of course this will only be on days that I have essentials to purchase from the supermarket

[FrankenDesmo]

Another thing that I've done is take the starter button/switch assembly off and give it a good clean & grease. Upon reassembly I discovered the problem with the button sticking was most likely that the casing had been screwed onto the handlebar too tightly (which had also made the Off/Run switch stiff - both operate with ease now).

[utopia]

If you plan to remove the PCV system, I would recommend leaving the breather unit and plastic separator box in situ and simply removing the long pipe to the airbox.
Your filter can then go on the outlet from the separator box, in place of the aforementioned pipe.
That tidies everything up fairly nicely without compromising the breather system or risking oil blowout.

[Luddite]

Plenty to keep you busy there, then!

Originally Posted by FrankenDesmo

but I didn't think about the tools I'd also need for that (torque wrench, flywheel puller, etc)...

You shouldn't need a puller for the flywheel as it's not on a taper (although you may need a flywheel locking tool). The difficult bit is undoing the nut! But, assuming you can do that, then the flywheel should just pull off.

Alan has just done this himself so I'm sure he can talk you through the process if you need any further guidance. http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58254

Originally Posted by FrankenDesmo

Another thing that I've done is take the starter button/switch assembly off and give it a good clean & grease. Upon reassembly I discovered the problem with the button sticking was most likely that the casing had been screwed onto the handlebar too tightly (which had also made the Off/Run switch stiff - both operate with ease now).

I don't remember exactly which Italian bike it was, but I certainly had a starter button that used to stick down and no amount of lubrication made it any better. When I got inside, I found the clearances were just too tight, so it needed some careful work with a blade to shave plastic away from the bits that stuck. Luckily, it never stuck for long enough to damage the solenoid or starter.

Nick

[FrankenDesmo]

Originally Posted by utopia

If you plan to remove the PCV system, I would recommend leaving the breather unit and plastic separator box in situ and simply removing the long pipe to the airbox.
Your filter can then go on the outlet from the separator box, in place of the aforementioned pipe.
That tidies everything up fairly nicely without compromising the breather system or risking oil blowout.

Good idea, I've done that to start with. Blanked off the hole in the airbox with a 22mm panel trim cap. I'm thinking now that I can probably get rid of the hose from the bottom of the airbox as I shouldn't be getting any oily residues building up in there anymore.

Originally Posted by Luddite

You shouldn't need a puller for the flywheel as it's not on a taper (although you may need a flywheel locking tool). The difficult bit is undoing the nut! But, assuming you can do that, then the flywheel should just pull off.

Mostly it's the lack of torque wrench holding me back, along with a shift into a more frugal mode of spending while this lockdown continues. Another task for another day.

I've been very slowly working on the bike due to a combination of procrastination and waiting for tools/parts to arrive as I discover I need them.

In the end I replaced the starter motor as it was stuffed - turning slowly on the bench, replaced the brushes, still turning slowly. So I've got a very shiny new starter system from the motor back to the battery - new solenoid, exact start leads, and the aforementioned cleaning up of the starter button/run switch.

Bike starts nice and easy now, though I suspect it'll be even better if I replace the cheap battery with a motobatt.

Turning the pilot screws out half a turn each hasn't had much of an impact on the hesitation-around-half-throttle-and-4ish-K-rpm. I suspect this is more of a needle jet transition issue, so I'll probably look to chain the needle height. It's more an issue for slow-speed / round-town riding, so not an issue when I'm out on the country lanes/highways where it runs more or less beautifully.


The only thing I haven't achieved on the wee list is the side pod removal, which is something that doesn't bother me too much - eventually I'll get around to it.

Next big job, however, is a big clean of the whole bike - it's filthy!

Then probably chain & sprockets as I have no idea how old they are.

Tyres should probably be changed at some point too - these ones have plenty of tread and feel fine on the road, but they are 2010's according to their DOT marks (battlax's).

[Mr Gazza]

Re the drain hose from the airbox; Utopia gave me a tip with that too and I cut the tube down to about an inch from the box and pushed the rubber tip/gland thingy back on the short end. I wouldn't blank it off as it might serve to drain any water that found it's way in the box, although neither Utopia and I have ever noticed anything coming out of the drain, hence the justification for shortening it.

Glad that you're at least thinking of changing the tyres. 5 years is the maximum life I give my own (bike) tyres others don't seem that fussy, but there is good evidence to suggest that it's a very good idea. Why chance it?

[Darren69]

Gary makes a good point and I can't remember exactly what I did with the drain pipe on the airbox on my S4, but I think I just put the rubber cap back on after removing the pipework. The oil pipe was blanked off with a panel grommet and if your airbox isn't cut back too much at the front you shouldn't have an issue with water running off the tank straight into the airbox.

Currently I have a K&N filter on the crankcase breather direct which can be an issue, and ideally I want to extend it away from the crankcase as soon as I can find a suitable adapter piece to run some hose under the seat with the filter on the end, out of harms way.

[FrankenDesmo]

Good point re the drain hose chaps. I'll look at doing that as I'm not bothered by it's existence - it's just a hassle to get the bung back in the airbox each time (or slightly less hassle removing the whole hose with the airbox - but I'm aiming for minimal hassle so that the carbs are easier to get at when needed).

I had assumed the tyres must fine for a decade or two at least - but apparently 5 years is the limit! I will look seriously at getting a pair of new Diablo II's on before I do a lot of riding.

Another thing I've started looking into (for the future) is sorting out the suspension which will be a new foray for me as I've never even checked a sag let alone play around with fluid weights, springs, and replacements. I'll need to scope out a good stretch of "test" road nearby...

[FrankenDesmo]

After a bit of shakedown riding I've now discovered the next broken thing

The front brake master is leaking, so I'm going to re-kit that. It's an older AP Racing master, but fortunately their current rebuild kit works for it - I'll be tracking down one of those from a distributor on Monday.

I'm in two minds to re-kit the calipers as well (and give everything an ultrasonic clean).

[FrankenDesmo]

Only one distributor that will get the specific kit in stock so far, and they've a 6-8 week lead time

I shall see if AP themselves can help...

[FrankenDesmo]

Oh and time for an updated look at the bike - this thread is heavy on prose and light on illustration.

[Darren69]

It might be easier/cheaper to get a s/hand Brembo one?