About to start a 750 refresh...

[utopia]

That's a good call, Nasher.
And should work well in the steel swinger.

Following on from that idea, I wonder if the old rivnut could be tightened up enough by centrepunching all around the circumference, rather than drilling and pegging.

When I fitted my ally swinger, I removed all the steel rivnuts and replaced them with ally ones.
Ally bolts were fitted too.
I have a bag of ally rivnuts left over.
Let me know the sizes and I'll bung one/some in the post for you if you like.
Or if you're coming to the weekender, I'll bring some along with me.

[Dukedesmo]

Once the screw's ground off and the hugger removed a quick 'spot' with a welder would hold the rivnut in place enough to drill it out or maybe even hold it in place well enough to use?

Though I'd want to remove it and fit a new one, especially if the swingarm's being restored.

[Nasher]

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

a quick 'spot' with a welder would hold the rivnut in place enough to drill it out or maybe even hold it in place well enough to use?

Yep, on a steel swingarm that would obviously do the trick. unfortunately it wouldn't have worked on my Ali arm.

I'd be tempted to then weld a nut on top of the rest of the screw to see if it will then unscrew.
I've successfully used the technique of welding a nut to the top of a broken or butchered head screw or bolt so many times as the heat of course helps break the corrosion bond too.
You weld it through the hole in the nut though, don't try welding the underside.

Nasher.

It can stay where it is for now. I'll just make it worse and break something.
I didn't realise there was a rivet nut under there. I'll probably try hitting it with a hammer. Failing that attack it with the Dremel and do what Nasher suggested.
Thanks guys

[Darren69]

OMG blinded by a dayglo mountain bike! I'd be keeping my eyes peeled for an ali swingarm if I could still see.

Right.... I've got this far and things are starting to get a little more complicated.
All I want to do it take the air box off and I seem to be following wires and cables worrying about what goes where.
I've taken the ignition out. Top off the air box. Bolts from underneath where the battery goes. The oil breather thing. The regulator.
What holds the air box in now? Is it just the circular thing attached to the carbs?

I appreciate it might be a daft question but I've been in the garage a few hours going round in circles wondering what needs to go next.
I'm trying to do it all in bitesize chunks so it's easier to put back but seem to be going in several directions..

[Luddite]

If you go onto the Stein Dinse site (www.stein-dinse.biz) you can see exploded views of all components and assemblies, which you might find useful.

This is the airbox assembly for the 2000 M750.

Thanks....

Originally Posted by Luddite

If you go onto the Stein Dinse site (www.stein-dinse.biz) you can see exploded views of all components and assemblies, which you might find useful.

This is the airbox assembly for the 2000 M750.

[Albie]

Print off all the sheets. Along with a Haynes it makes more sense It became my bible

The last couple of bits to disconnect....

The top pic I think is the neutral switch? It's on the right, rear of the engine..... Do I just unbolt this and pull it out?

And the bottom 2 are on the front and back of the lefthand side. Do I need to take the alternator cover off to get these off?

[Darren69]

Top one is indeed the neutral switch and will just unscrew and eventually pull out, but its fiddly. Have replaced a few of those in my time and they are a PITA to get spanners on. There maybe some shims under the switch body which you'll need to be careful not to lose.

[Albie]

Just disconnect at the terminals of neutral switch if you don't wish to get a deep spanner. The alternator are again connectors to the loom.

Thanks. I'll take out the neutral switch and leave in the alternator wires.

I don't want to get dragged to deep into the engine.

No major breakages yet which is a bonus.

I'm looking for the to getting each bit resprayed..... But REALLY not looking forward to putting the jigsaw back together

I need quite a few of the consumables on here but can ink your fingers down the odd one or two.... And some are like £20 for 3 inch of pipe.....

Long shot... Does anyone know the dimensions of the pipes and fittings and or a generic product I can use instead?

[Darkness]

Pipe 6 is a bit special, with two 90 degree bends moulded into it to allow the fuel pipe to pass the fuel pump then enter the rear face.