About to start a 750 refresh... - Page 4

Darren69 · 05-04-2018, 08:37 PM

OMG blinded by a dayglo mountain bike! I'd be keeping my eyes peeled for an ali swingarm if I could still see.

06-04-2018, 05:53 PM

Sorted Albie....

Quote:

Originally Posted by Albie

AND DONT FORGET THAT ENGINE TO FRAME EARTH LOCKNUT ON THE RIGHT HAND FOOTREST HANGER BOLT...

06-04-2018, 07:05 PM

Right.... I've got this far and things are starting to get a little more complicated.
All I want to do it take the air box off and I seem to be following wires and cables worrying about what goes where.
I've taken the ignition out. Top off the air box. Bolts from underneath where the battery goes. The oil breather thing. The regulator.
What holds the air box in now? Is it just the circular thing attached to the carbs?

I appreciate it might be a daft question but I've been in the garage a few hours going round in circles wondering what needs to go next.
I'm trying to do it all in bitesize chunks so it's easier to put back but seem to be going in several directions..

Luddite · 06-04-2018, 08:47 PM

If you go onto the Stein Dinse site (www.stein-dinse.biz) you can see exploded views of all components and assemblies, which you might find useful.

This is the airbox assembly for the 2000 M750.

06-04-2018, 10:25 PM

Thanks....

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luddite

If you go onto the Stein Dinse site (www.stein-dinse.biz) you can see exploded views of all components and assemblies, which you might find useful.

This is the airbox assembly for the 2000 M750.

Albie · 06-04-2018, 11:14 PM

Print off all the sheets. Along with a Haynes it makes more sense It became my bible

07-04-2018, 05:19 PM

The last couple of bits to disconnect....

The top pic I think is the neutral switch? It's on the right, rear of the engine..... Do I just unbolt this and pull it out?

And the bottom 2 are on the front and back of the lefthand side. Do I need to take the alternator cover off to get these off?

Darren69 · 07-04-2018, 05:45 PM

Top one is indeed the neutral switch and will just unscrew and eventually pull out, but its fiddly. Have replaced a few of those in my time and they are a PITA to get spanners on. There maybe some shims under the switch body which you'll need to be careful not to lose.

Albie · 07-04-2018, 05:49 PM

Just disconnect at the terminals of neutral switch if you don't wish to get a deep spanner. The alternator are again connectors to the loom.

07-04-2018, 05:55 PM

Thanks. I'll take out the neutral switch and leave in the alternator wires.

I don't want to get dragged to deep into the engine.

No major breakages yet which is a bonus.

I'm looking for the to getting each bit resprayed..... But REALLY not looking forward to putting the jigsaw back together

09-04-2018, 09:10 PM

I need quite a few of the consumables on here but can ink your fingers down the odd one or two.... And some are like £20 for 3 inch of pipe.....

Long shot... Does anyone know the dimensions of the pipes and fittings and or a generic product I can use instead?

Darkness · 09-04-2018, 09:18 PM

Pipe 6 is a bit special, with two 90 degree bends moulded into it to allow the fuel pipe to pass the fuel pump then enter the rear face.

09-04-2018, 09:36 PM

Yeah, that's one of the expensive ones

utopia · 09-04-2018, 09:42 PM

Do you really need to replace the pipes ?
Unless they're actually damaged the old ones should be fine.

I would be wary of replacing pipe no 2 with anything other than the Ducati part, as this is the one which flexes (in a closely controlled manner) as the tank is raised/lowered.

10-04-2018, 06:46 AM

9 and 13 are the ones I could do with replacing

05-04-2018, 08:37 PM	#46
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,091	OMG blinded by a dayglo mountain bike! I'd be keeping my eyes peeled for an ali swingarm if I could still see. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

06-04-2018, 11:14 PM	#51
Albie Fanactical volunteer Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kent Bike: M900 Posts: 9,034	Print off all the sheets. Along with a Haynes it makes more sense It became my bible __________________ http://albies93m900.blogspot.co.uk/

07-04-2018, 05:45 PM	#53
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,091	Top one is indeed the neutral switch and will just unscrew and eventually pull out, but its fiddly. Have replaced a few of those in my time and they are a PITA to get spanners on. There maybe some shims under the switch body which you'll need to be careful not to lose. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

07-04-2018, 05:49 PM	#54
Albie Fanactical volunteer Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kent Bike: M900 Posts: 9,034	Just disconnect at the terminals of neutral switch if you don't wish to get a deep spanner. The alternator are again connectors to the loom. __________________ http://albies93m900.blogspot.co.uk/

09-04-2018, 09:18 PM	#57
Darkness . Join Date: May 2007 Location: Stockbridge Bike: M900 Posts: 1,984	Pipe 6 is a bit special, with two 90 degree bends moulded into it to allow the fuel pipe to pass the fuel pump then enter the rear face. __________________ Original and Best since 1993

06-04-2018, 07:05 PM	#48
davkyt Guest Posts: n/a	Right.... I've got this far and things are starting to get a little more complicated. All I want to do it take the air box off and I seem to be following wires and cables worrying about what goes where. I've taken the ignition out. Top off the air box. Bolts from underneath where the battery goes. The oil breather thing. The regulator. What holds the air box in now? Is it just the circular thing attached to the carbs? I appreciate it might be a daft question but I've been in the garage a few hours going round in circles wondering what needs to go next. I'm trying to do it all in bitesize chunks so it's easier to put back but seem to be going in several directions..

06-04-2018, 08:47 PM	#49
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	If you go onto the Stein Dinse site (www.stein-dinse.biz) you can see exploded views of all components and assemblies, which you might find useful. This is the airbox assembly for the 2000 M750.

07-04-2018, 05:19 PM	#52
davkyt Guest Posts: n/a	The last couple of bits to disconnect.... The top pic I think is the neutral switch? It's on the right, rear of the engine..... Do I just unbolt this and pull it out? And the bottom 2 are on the front and back of the lefthand side. Do I need to take the alternator cover off to get these off?

07-04-2018, 05:55 PM	#55
davkyt Guest Posts: n/a	Thanks. I'll take out the neutral switch and leave in the alternator wires. I don't want to get dragged to deep into the engine. No major breakages yet which is a bonus. I'm looking for the to getting each bit resprayed..... But REALLY not looking forward to putting the jigsaw back together

09-04-2018, 09:10 PM	#56
davkyt Guest Posts: n/a	I need quite a few of the consumables on here but can ink your fingers down the odd one or two.... And some are like £20 for 3 inch of pipe..... Long shot... Does anyone know the dimensions of the pipes and fittings and or a generic product I can use instead?

09-04-2018, 09:36 PM	#58
davkyt Guest Posts: n/a	Yeah, that's one of the expensive ones

09-04-2018, 09:42 PM	#59
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,559	Do you really need to replace the pipes ? Unless they're actually damaged the old ones should be fine. I would be wary of replacing pipe no 2 with anything other than the Ducati part, as this is the one which flexes (in a closely controlled manner) as the tank is raised/lowered.

10-04-2018, 06:46 AM	#60
davkyt Guest Posts: n/a	9 and 13 are the ones I could do with replacing