My S2R 800

[Darren69]

Sorry, not great pictures but you will hopefully get the idea. The main issue I had was with the Left hi -level pipe and finding a good position in both axis that didn't foul it but the S2R won't have this issue:-















There will be a DP part number for this but I couldn't find it, sorry and the Ohlins kit that I bought is generic but may work for you as I had mine fitted to the footrest hangar using that part before I found the correct one for the bike.

[Blah blah]

After lots of thought and trying in different places, both remote canisters are now tie wrapped to the frame under the seat after removing the underseat storage lid. What I want are some of the rubber shaped pieces that ohlins sell to fit between the frame and reservoirs but I can't find them so the bits of hard foam I've got in there will do for the moment until I can find something more substantial.

Anyway, and with the bike sitting on a pair of axle stands, I appear to gained 5-7mm in height at the rear (or reduced static sag by the same amount) when measuring from the spindle to the indicator above it.

But I may take the rear shock back off anyway to get one of the hose connections altered - it's fairly tight to the breather box (?) and I don't want it to rub...

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by Blah blah

What I want are some of the rubber shaped pieces that ohlins sell to fit between the frame and reservoirs...

Try Reactive Suspension

http://www.reactivesuspension.com/pr...?product_id=16



Or any Öhlins dealer should be able to supply them (assuming they're still available). The part number is 00230-01 (x2). Try Mark Hammond at MH Suspension http://www.mhracing.com/

[Blah blah]

It's just that it's £13 plus VAT for 2 jubilee clips and a bit of rubber that sticks in the throat

[Mr Gazza]

The standard Ohlins remote res is just jubilee clipped to a curved bracket on My M900S.

Would something like this do the trick? https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Yuzet-Heavy...1581289&chn=ps

[Blah blah]

So, another year and another advisory for noisy exhausts but a slightly embarrassing not-quite 300 miles between MoTs ! Not a typo, yep 300 and since the last one it's had new tyres and the suspension done so I'm not going to work out the pence per mile...

Anyway, the new suspension is in, serviced and set up for me by MTS and after taking a longer way home from the MoT man, I can tell that the back is certainly higher that it used to be but it doesn't float over the bumps and now both ends are quite firm. I also seemed to have lost a lot of the feel that I used to have form both ends

Perhaps I was expecting too much as Monsters aren't really known for wafting along, the tyres are still pretty new and I'm a bit rusty - so the overall impression at the moment is that it's all a bit 'meh'. I did however get to the edge of the tyres without really pushing so maybe it is lots better and it's just me.

And that's the excuse I'll use at the weekend to get out on it !

[Blah blah]

The more I ride it, the more I get used to the new suspension. It's taken a couple of trips and it's still a bit choppy on the front at lower speeds but there's no drama as speeds creep up... might be a quick call to MTC to see if they can suggest something



Next on the list, belts and a service.

[slob]

Did you see my PM Anthony?

[Blah blah]

At the last MoT I got an advisory about the rear light not being very 'red' (along with 'noisy exhaust') and you can see why...



It's a cheap LED behind a clear white lense and while it looks red, it isn't a very full fat red - the number plate lights (tiny LEDs) are inside the light shining down. To try to make it more red, I've replaced the cheap one on the right with a 'CE' marked one on the left.



The results are very satisfying (if somewhat difficult to photo) as the whole light is now a full bright red, more bling !

A problem I've found with all LED replacement tail/stop bulbs is there is never enough difference between the modes, such that the stop indication does not provide the eye-catching flash that's needed to alert following drivers. The standard filament bulb is 5w for the tail and 21w for the stop, so a big difference in light output. I'd guess that most LEDs are biased to the tail function. Add to that that the LED never makes full use of the parabolic reflector in the original housing which produces a proper beam with a filament.

I'm all for LEDs up front but don't care for them in turn signals, and stick very firmly with Osram long-life filament bulbs at the back, behind a red lens. Not cool perhaps, but safer IMO.

Nick

[Darren69]

Full LED light units are available which replace the whole light unit and solve the problem you are seeing with just a replacement bulb. I dont think they are overly expensive either. Sorry if you knew that already.

[utopia]

The problem with many led bulbs is that they project all their light forward whereas the original filament bulb is a point source projecting in all directions which can therefore be picked up over the full area of the silvered reflector.
This is clearly demonstrated in the first pic where a bulb-shaped disc of red light is all that is visible.
The new bulb has side facing leds which project to the reflector and thus overcome the problem.
The other way to do it is to have a larger area of forward facing leds.
My rear light now consists of the std housing but fitted with an array of red leds on a circuit board which covers the whole area of the light unit.
This was originally supplied with a clear lens but I found that fitting it with the original red lense resulted in a light which is a lovely intense red colour and stands out much better in all light conditions than the original did.
And of course, having loads of leds makes it easy to design in a hefty bias towards the stoplight function.
Of course this doesn't have the bling factor of a clear lens but personally I don't really care about that (though I can see that the clear lens might rather suit a silver S2R).

[Blah blah]

I've seen the full LED taillights but haven't found any I really liked enough to buy and to be frank, I think those with the combined indicators are just plain tacky.

The brake light is even more stupidy bright than the tail light, I may have involuntarily laughed out loud the first time I tested it, so no worries with that.

The other thing I'd like to change (apart from the tank and the mirrors) are the indicators. The old 900 had oberon LEDs on when I sold it and I'd really like some of them again but at £60 a pair they'll have to wait as there are various other things demanding my cash at the moment (my Caddy needs welding and the engine putting back in, in the first instance...)

Unless anyone has a spare set or 2 sitting around that they'd sell cheap

[Darren69]

I still have a set of 4 DP De Pretto Moto alu idicstors in tbe for sale section

[Darren69]

They are not led but the right period for your bike and brand new.