Dukedesmo's M900 project - the intro... - Page 4

27-09-2012, 02:11 PM

I took my monster to Morton industrial coatings in Langley mill. Bloke by the name of Darren near the cricket ground. Brilliant job and he did my frame, swingarm and a thousand other bits.

Nice bloke but usually over run with stuff to do. Oh and he does a really good price and shot blasting is included in the deal.

gary tompkins · 27-09-2012, 08:14 PM

I would mask wheel hubs with a couple of drilled metal discs cut from thin steel or aluminium sheet. You can clamp these either side with studding or long bolt & nuts through the spindle hole. If oven doesn't get too hot even 10mm thick plywood may do the job

Dukedesmo · 27-09-2012, 09:38 PM

Thanks for the replies.

I've just spent the last hour removing the cush drives - they're a tight fit aren't they? Popped out nicely though and without any damage, just hope I can get the new ones in with no scratches.

Dukedesmo · 12-10-2012, 09:24 PM

So, I got the frame, wheels and hoop back today from powdercoating.

Fitted new bearings & cush drives to the wheels and in the process of fitting new steering head bearings.

Had some difficulty removing bearing from stem and had to grind it until I could split it, in doing so cut the large washer that was under it - is this required? as far as I can see it only acts as some sort of seal and I have a new seal which is smaller than the washer but would sit in the head race.

Does the washer act as some kind of shim/spacer?

gary tompkins · 12-10-2012, 09:39 PM

I would guess it's there for a good reason - otherwise why fit it in the first place? My money would be on some kind of spacer needed for clearance, and it could also protect the soft alloy of the lower yoke from any wear and tear. Powdercoating looks good

Dukedesmo · 12-10-2012, 10:10 PM

If it's only a spacer/protection for the aluminium against the frame then I can use it as is, the groove won't affect it. I'll happily buy a new washer but I doubt it'll be in stock anywhere?

There is no seal in there either top or bottom, yet I got 2 seals with the bearings. I don't suppose much water gets in past the top washer anyway plus I try not to ride in the rain and I'll pack it all with plenty of grease, so Just wondering whether to fit the seals or not?

Whatever I do I need to decide before I fit the bearings.

Otherwise next job is the engine, since I've overbored, gasflowed, high-comp'd and FCR'd I reckon it might be wise to refresh the bearings etc on a 17 yr old engine! (although I can't 'feel' any wear in the crank).

Also looking to get the crank balanced as my understanding is that the factory balancing is not great in the first place so with new (lighter) pistons it's unlikely to be right.

Here's how the engine looks at the moment;

12-10-2012, 11:11 PM

Great thread, thanks for posting this. It's a great insight into all the work that goes into a fantastic looking bike.

13-10-2012, 09:13 AM

Not that you need telling, bubblewrap/protect the frame when refitting everything. Looking good.

And I see you also went for the wooden engine stand.

Dukedesmo · 14-10-2012, 05:28 PM

So with the steering head washer 'repaired' to save waiting for the inevitable back-order I moved on to the engine.

After some bolt removal, pulley pulling, tapping & prying I got this;

Which now looks like this;

At least the infamous aluminium oil galley plug is still in place;

Looking to replace bearings and seals as, despite everything looking good, I reckon at 17yrs and mileage/maintenance unknown it's probably about time, especially now it's apart.

Don't know if I can source all the bearings from a bearing supplier or if I need to get some from Ducati? Those main bearings look expensive...

Can't see any wear in the crank but will examine further and check tolerances etc, then get it balanced to the new pistons.

Capo · 14-10-2012, 06:30 PM

You best be getting the mains from Ducati, they are radial contact and there are three different contact angles available. Expensive yes but not much difference from Ducati.

Dukedesmo · 15-10-2012, 06:53 PM

Thanks, I called into a nearby Ducati centre today, bearing prices are more reasonable than I thought.

I'm going to opt out of fitting/shimming them myself and get expert help on this job to ensure the endfloats are spot-on, don't want to risk cocking it up and the engine seizing after a few months.

Capo · 15-10-2012, 07:17 PM

Indeed accurate preload on the mains is essential for longevity. There are other shafts that also require shimming.

GTEC Performancei s just down the road from you

http://gtecperformance.co.uk/ducati_..._re-builds.htm

16-10-2012, 09:37 AM

Great thread, looking forward to seeing this finished.

16-10-2012, 01:35 PM

You are way ahead of me but doing pretty much the same project

I'd like to pop round one day nest year if thats ok to have a chat over what you've done and any hints and tips you could give? No rush as I cant spare the cash on the bike when I live in a medieval barn, sorry house rennovation......

Looks good btw!

Dukedesmo · 16-10-2012, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nottsbiker

I'd like to pop round one day nest year if thats ok to have a chat over what you've done and any hints and tips you could give?

No problem, look forward to seeing you

By the time you do, hopefully it'll be alive...

27-09-2012, 08:14 PM	#47
gary tompkins 1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Dartford, Kent Bike: M900ie Posts: 7,241	I would mask wheel hubs with a couple of drilled metal discs cut from thin steel or aluminium sheet. You can clamp these either side with studding or long bolt & nuts through the spindle hole. If oven doesn't get too hot even 10mm thick plywood may do the job __________________ GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong! Last edited by gary tompkins; 27-09-2012 at 08:17 PM..

27-09-2012, 09:38 PM	#48
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,901	Thanks for the replies. I've just spent the last hour removing the cush drives - they're a tight fit aren't they? Popped out nicely though and without any damage, just hope I can get the new ones in with no scratches. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

12-10-2012, 09:24 PM	#49
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,901	So, I got the frame, wheels and hoop back today from powdercoating. Fitted new bearings & cush drives to the wheels and in the process of fitting new steering head bearings. Had some difficulty removing bearing from stem and had to grind it until I could split it, in doing so cut the large washer that was under it - is this required? as far as I can see it only acts as some sort of seal and I have a new seal which is smaller than the washer but would sit in the head race. Does the washer act as some kind of shim/spacer? __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

12-10-2012, 09:39 PM	#50
gary tompkins 1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Dartford, Kent Bike: M900ie Posts: 7,241	I would guess it's there for a good reason - otherwise why fit it in the first place? My money would be on some kind of spacer needed for clearance, and it could also protect the soft alloy of the lower yoke from any wear and tear. Powdercoating looks good __________________ GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong!

12-10-2012, 10:10 PM	#51
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,901	If it's only a spacer/protection for the aluminium against the frame then I can use it as is, the groove won't affect it. I'll happily buy a new washer but I doubt it'll be in stock anywhere? There is no seal in there either top or bottom, yet I got 2 seals with the bearings. I don't suppose much water gets in past the top washer anyway plus I try not to ride in the rain and I'll pack it all with plenty of grease, so Just wondering whether to fit the seals or not? Whatever I do I need to decide before I fit the bearings. Otherwise next job is the engine, since I've overbored, gasflowed, high-comp'd and FCR'd I reckon it might be wise to refresh the bearings etc on a 17 yr old engine! (although I can't 'feel' any wear in the crank). Also looking to get the crank balanced as my understanding is that the factory balancing is not great in the first place so with new (lighter) pistons it's unlikely to be right. Here's how the engine looks at the moment; __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

27-09-2012, 02:11 PM	#46
Reaperman Guest Posts: n/a	I took my monster to Morton industrial coatings in Langley mill. Bloke by the name of Darren near the cricket ground. Brilliant job and he did my frame, swingarm and a thousand other bits. Nice bloke but usually over run with stuff to do. Oh and he does a really good price and shot blasting is included in the deal.

12-10-2012, 11:11 PM	#52
Bigxr Guest Posts: n/a	Great thread, thanks for posting this. It's a great insight into all the work that goes into a fantastic looking bike.

13-10-2012, 09:13 AM	#53
littlejimmy12 Guest Posts: n/a	Not that you need telling, bubblewrap/protect the frame when refitting everything. Looking good. And I see you also went for the wooden engine stand.

14-10-2012, 05:28 PM	#54
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,901	Splitting the engine... So with the steering head washer 'repaired' to save waiting for the inevitable back-order I moved on to the engine. After some bolt removal, pulley pulling, tapping & prying I got this; Which now looks like this; At least the infamous aluminium oil galley plug is still in place; Looking to replace bearings and seals as, despite everything looking good, I reckon at 17yrs and mileage/maintenance unknown it's probably about time, especially now it's apart. Don't know if I can source all the bearings from a bearing supplier or if I need to get some from Ducati? Those main bearings look expensive... Can't see any wear in the crank but will examine further and check tolerances etc, then get it balanced to the new pistons. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

14-10-2012, 06:30 PM	#55
Capo You Are What You Is Join Date: May 2005 Location: A Foward Location Bike: S4r Posts: 1,948	You best be getting the mains from Ducati, they are radial contact and there are three different contact angles available. Expensive yes but not much difference from Ducati.

15-10-2012, 06:53 PM	#56
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,901	Thanks, I called into a nearby Ducati centre today, bearing prices are more reasonable than I thought. I'm going to opt out of fitting/shimming them myself and get expert help on this job to ensure the endfloats are spot-on, don't want to risk cocking it up and the engine seizing after a few months. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

15-10-2012, 07:17 PM	#57
Capo You Are What You Is Join Date: May 2005 Location: A Foward Location Bike: S4r Posts: 1,948	Indeed accurate preload on the mains is essential for longevity. There are other shafts that also require shimming. GTEC Performancei s just down the road from you http://gtecperformance.co.uk/ducati_..._re-builds.htm

16-10-2012, 09:37 AM	#58
fuelline Guest Posts: n/a	Great thread, looking forward to seeing this finished.

16-10-2012, 01:35 PM	#59
Nottsbiker Guest Posts: n/a	You are way ahead of me but doing pretty much the same project I'd like to pop round one day nest year if thats ok to have a chat over what you've done and any hints and tips you could give? No rush as I cant spare the cash on the bike when I live in a medieval barn, sorry house rennovation...... Looks good btw!