Slow Monster rebuild - Page 37

27-01-2018, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by utopia

Such a loud criticism demands a response.

Calling you an engineer was meant as a complement and you usually give good advice

.......just not on this occasion.

utopia · 27-01-2018, 01:21 PM

My apologies if I misunderstood your intentions.

Darkness · 27-01-2018, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLUNT

Calling you an engineer was meant as a complement and you usually give good advice

.......just not on this occasion.

If one solution suited all applications we wouldn't need Engineers.

Having said that, you can sort out most problems with a piece of fence wire and a length of baler twine.

350TSS · 02-02-2018, 09:18 AM

Wiring and more wiring over the last week, at least I am getting better at making up the AMP connectors. I can do a 2 pole female connector in about 20 minutes the male takes at least twice as long. I suppose I am about 50 to 60% done now.
All good practice though because the project after next is a 1974 3½ Morini which also needs a complete rewire.
I got the new solenoid (for a Z1000 Kwak) through the post and being smaller it required a new mounting bracket so I knocked one up from 3mm aluminium. Bonus was a 25 gram weight saving over the original M900 offering.
Also, whilst doing the boring wiring work, I have had the chance to do some pondering.
1) the best way to enhance the alternator output leads. The existing ones are encased into a circular moulded sheath which fits nicely through the sealing gland in the alternator case. Using two heavier gauge wires will obviously lead to a sealing problem at the gland (as the cross section will not be circular) unless I can think of a way of making a sheath with approximately the same OD where the new cables go through the gland.
2) whether or not to use the expensive connector between the alternator and the rectifier. I decided to make a junction using two 20mm bits of bored 6mm brass hexagon bar with 4 x 4mm grub screws to secure the cable all insulated with heat shrinks
3) how to minimise the impact of flex of the loom and cables around the headstock. This is an issue for me because:
a) the bulk of my connectors are forward of the headstock; and,
b) I have erred on the side of caution when selecting the cable sizes for particular circuits (I have used thin wall insulation cable with more copper and less insulation than original) which means that the loom will be a bit inflexible; and
c) I do not want the connections to the MUV2 unit directly behind the headstock to be subjected to fore and aft pressure when the handlebars are turned
I think I have a cunning plan which if it works will be brilliant, if it does not you will never hear of it again.
4) aesthetics – a) decided that the running light and the proposed front indicators looked naff so I did away with the running light and the indicators with yet more filler on the front fly screen mold; and
b) final colour of the bike, I had been leaning towards the Paul Smart Bevel Imola colours with the same old style logos, but could never quite see myself on a greeny - blue framed bike. I am as near certain as I can be of the final chosen colour, though it may yet change. As to logo style I will follow the logos cast into the cam castings
Today I will have to chase up delivery of my fork legs from Maxton and the CF wheels, both of which are now overdue.

350TSS · 05-02-2018, 02:05 PM

Arrived today refurbed fork legs, beautifully wrapped, with all the old components in a HD sealed plastic bad with data sheet of settings and a manual.
Wheels are due later this week or early next.

350TSS · 05-02-2018, 02:06 PM

Jez900ie · 05-02-2018, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkness

If one solution suited all applications we wouldn't need Engineers.

Having said that, you can sort out most problems with a piece of fence wire and a length of baler twine.

Its easier if you've got some duct tape and chewing gum too...

Jez900ie · 05-02-2018, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TSS

I think I have a cunning plan which if it works will be brilliant, if it does not you will never hear of it again.
b) final colour of the bike, I had been leaning towards the Paul Smart Bevel Imola colours with the same old style logos, but could never quite see myself on a greeny - blue framed bike. I am as near certain as I can be of the final chosen colour, though it may yet change. As to logo style I will follow the logos cast into the cam castings

I do enjoy reading your posts!

A couple of light hearted questions. With regard to the "plan" is it a plan so cunning, you could put a tail on it and call it a weasel?

The colour of the bike will be silver? Are you planning to have the exhausts black too? And a full fairing???

Those forks look rather tasty, did the wheels arrive too?

utopia · 05-02-2018, 05:09 PM

Or ... "if you can't fix it with cable ties ..... you aren't using enough cable ties".
As my eldest son said to me just after I'd fixed his pedal-bin, using ...... you guessed it.
It was still working on my next visit some months later, though by Christmas it had given up the ghost.
Just needed a cable-tie service though, I reckon.

Wow on the forks.
That looks just like the package that I also hope to receive ... someday. (I have similar, all silver, 50/54mm forks, though mine are non-adjustable).
So what adjustments did you go for then ?
In fact I'm very interested in all the details.
Also, I notice that your original internals have linear springing.
Were the forks originally from a monster ?
More pics would be good, particularly of the adjusters.

Finally, if I can be cheeky .. should you end up deciding to bin the old internals I'd happily pay postage and packing if you binned them in my direction.
I'm just interested to have a poke around and see exactly how they tick really, but also possibly with a view to modding the cartridges, or at least seeing how/if they can be cut open.

350TSS · 06-02-2018, 05:10 AM

Jez 900ie:
I will let you know how cunning the plan was/is when I know whether (or not ) it works.
My original plan re colour scheme was to copy the Paul Smart Ducati look, silver tank a light blue/green frame (with just a fly-screen) but the M900 monster will be a bit smaller than the bevel and I do think the original bike’s presence enabled that colour scheme to work. Also, black CF wheels on my bike change the look over the spoked and will not go right with/ overpower the silver /blue green option.
I will try to keep you all guessing as to the actual colours/finish chosen just as long as I can.
I promise pictures of CF wheels will be posted as and when they arrive.
Utopia:
Re cable ties: For about 5 years in the early 90s a mate and I entered classic car rallies in his 1954 Austin Healey 100/4 (precursor to the Healey 3000), him driving and me navigating. This was fitted with a 2.7 litre 4 cylinder Austin truck engine, (an all iron long stroke lump about 90 bhp originally at 4600rpm in the Healey with twin SUs). After a lot of tuning, 100M alloy head, 4 speed with 2 speed full power overdrive, bumpy cam, big valves, lightened rocker gear and 2 x 2” SUs we got it to about 150bhp at 5800rpm. Fabulous car to drive and quicker up the Col de Torini than anything else (works replica Healey 3000s (about 225bhp), E types (about 265bhp), TR6s (tuned to about 175bhp).

Our first rally was the classic Monte Carlo and we finished building the car the night before the start from Bristol. We had lots of adventures on that (and subsequent) Monte Carlo (and other) rallies. First, we stripped the splines in the OS rear knock off wire wheel and had to swap it for a front wheel which then meant no front brake on one side. At 2 am at 7 degrees below somewhere in the mountains above Monte Carlo the handbrake cable chewed through and shorted out the loom causing the car to stop with no lights whatsoever.
The point re cable ties is that on the last night of that first rally on the run down into Monte Carlo after 30 straight hours in the car just as we could see the finish about 15 miles away, there was a horrible graunching sound from under the bonnet.
We discovered dynamo was hanging forlornly off the slotted adjuster bracket with the fan belt now so loose that it had been chewed up by the fan. The dynamo was from a truck about 175mm diameter and weighing at least 10 kilos and the substantial 10mm steel plate acting as the pivot bracket had separated. Fortunately, in our emergency spares kit we had the biggest cable ties I had ever seen, two of these were pressed into service and tightened with mole grips, forcing the two separated halves of the fatigued steel to match grain for grain. We drove to the finish (103rd out of 130 finishers, 200 starters) and the car, next day, was driven home from Monte Carlo to Calais in 13 hours (because we both had to be back at work on Monday) and then on to Nottingham.
Cable ties, I love them, except on the outside of Ducati frames holding the wiring in place.
These forks originally came from a non-running S4 I bought for £500 less tank and seat and wheels and front brake system. The original M900 legs are non-adjustable and the gold anodising has faded and been eroded by chafing brake pipes.

350TSS · 06-02-2018, 05:11 AM

Jez 900ie:
I will let you know how cunning the plan was/is when I know whether (or not ) it works.
My original plan re colour scheme was to copy the Paul Smart Ducati look, silver tank a light blue/green frame (with just a fly-screen) but the M900 monster will be a bit smaller than the bevel and I do think the original bike’s presence enabled that colour scheme to work. Also, black CF wheels on my bike change the look over the spoked and will not go right with/ overpower the silver /blue green option.
I will try to keep you all guessing as to the actual colours/finish chosen just as long as I can.
I promise pictures of CF wheels will be posted as and when they arrive.
Utopia:
Re cable ties: For about 5 years in the early 90s a mate and I entered classic car rallies in his 1954 Austin Healey 100/4 (precursor to the Healey 3000), him driving and me navigating. This was fitted with a 2.7 litre 4 cylinder Austin truck engine, (an all iron long stroke lump about 90 bhp originally at 4600rpm in the Healey with twin SUs). After a lot of tuning, 100M alloy head, 4 speed with 2 speed full power overdrive, bumpy cam, big valves, lightened rocker gear and 2 x 2” SUs we got it to about 150bhp at 5800rpm. Fabulous car to drive and quicker up the Col de Torini than anything else (works replica Healey 3000s (about 225bhp), E types (about 265bhp), TR6s (tuned to about 175bhp).

Our first rally was the classic Monte Carlo and we finished building the car the night before the start from Bristol. We had lots of adventures on that (and subsequent) Monte Carlo (and other) rallies. First, we stripped the splines in the OS rear knock off wire wheel and had to swap it for a front wheel which then meant no front brake on one side. At 2 am at 7 degrees below somewhere in the mountains above Monte Carlo the handbrake cable chewed through and shorted out the loom causing the car to stop with no lights whatsoever.
The point re cable ties is that on the last night of that first rally on the run down into Monte Carlo after 30 straight hours in the car just as we could see the finish about 15 miles away, there was a horrible graunching sound from under the bonnet.
We discovered dynamo was hanging forlornly off the slotted adjuster bracket with the fan belt now so loose that it had been chewed up by the fan. The dynamo was from a truck about 175mm diameter and weighing at least 10 kilos and the substantial 10mm steel plate acting as the pivot bracket had separated. Fortunately, in our emergency spares kit we had the biggest cable ties I had ever seen, two of these were pressed into service and tightened with mole grips, forcing the two separated halves of the fatigued steel to match grain for grain. We drove to the finish (103rd out of 130 finishers, 200 starters) and the car, next day, was driven home from Monte Carlo to Calais in 13 hours (because we both had to be back at work on Monday) and then on to Nottingham.
Cable ties, I love them, except on the outside of Ducati frames holding the wiring in place.
These forks originally came from a non-running S4 I bought for £500 less tank and seat and wheels and front brake system. The original M900 legs are non-adjustable and the gold anodising has faded and been eroded by chafing brake pipes.

350TSS · 06-02-2018, 05:15 AM

Utopia cont:
Sorry, but I may still want the fork internals for an “upgrade” to a 1992 750SS which is about third on the to do project list. If they will not fit then you can have them, however I shall not be checking whether or not they are any use to me for at least another year.

350TSS · 06-02-2018, 06:57 AM

Do not know why it keeps posting twice???
In the car picture above it is me driving but shortly afterwards I got banned from that seat because on a narrow, twisty mountain road I left it in third instead of changing down to second and even on just above tick-over revs there was enough torque from the long stroke heavy flywheel engine to make the rear wheels spin and we ended up facing the wrong way.

Re the forks and settings
The RH leg controls the rebound damping and the LH the compression damping, both have come set at 12 clicks from fully home. I have no idea how many clicks constitutes fully out.
I am advised by the manual to set the static sag at between 25 and 30mm and the forks come with a 12mm preload (set by spacers beneath the caps I believe)
Based on my weight at 90 kilos in riding gear, no pillion capability and an assumed weight of the bike of 150kg, the springs are 0.9Kg/mm, presumably linear not progressive springs.
The oil in both legs is Putoline Formula 5 (presumably 5 weight oil) with the air gap in both legs set at 140mm. I assume this is with the leg vertical and not in a set of yokes.
Hope this helps

utopia · 06-02-2018, 01:16 PM

No worries on the old internals .. I assumed you'd probably be using them for something yourself .. just wanted to save them in the unlikely event that they were destined for the bin.
If they're S4 forks, that puts paid to my notion that early monsters were fitted with progressive springs, with linear ones reserved the sports/superbikes (both my two sets of forks have progressive).

Interesting that the preload adjustment is by shims.
Some might consider that a negative point because of the inconvenience but to my way of thinking its fine for a road bike because preload is something that you pretty much set up once and then forget about.
And shims are the tidier solution.

Personally, I love the blue/green frame of the early Paul Smarts.
I agree with you that it may not suit the monster frame so much though.
For me, the classic Ducati gold/bronze takes some beating on an older monster.
Mind you, Gazza's mate does powdercoating that looks just like polished ally.

??

Mr Gazza · 06-02-2018, 06:05 PM

There's not much these boy's can't do with powder coat. http://aerocoat.co.uk/

The mirror chrome finish is quite magical really, as it looks just like real chrome plating on steel and looks like polished alloy on alloy substrates.
It's due to the way the different metals hold heat during the process that give the subtlety different effects.... Nice..

06-02-2018, 06:05 PM	#555
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,983	There's not much these boy's can't do with powder coat. http://aerocoat.co.uk/ The mirror chrome finish is quite magical really, as it looks just like real chrome plating on steel and looks like polished alloy on alloy substrates. It's due to the way the different metals hold heat during the process that give the subtlety different effects.... Nice.. __________________

27-01-2018, 01:21 PM	#542
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,561	My apologies if I misunderstood your intentions.

02-02-2018, 09:18 AM	#544
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	Wiring and more wiring over the last week, at least I am getting better at making up the AMP connectors. I can do a 2 pole female connector in about 20 minutes the male takes at least twice as long. I suppose I am about 50 to 60% done now. All good practice though because the project after next is a 1974 3½ Morini which also needs a complete rewire. I got the new solenoid (for a Z1000 Kwak) through the post and being smaller it required a new mounting bracket so I knocked one up from 3mm aluminium. Bonus was a 25 gram weight saving over the original M900 offering. Also, whilst doing the boring wiring work, I have had the chance to do some pondering. 1) the best way to enhance the alternator output leads. The existing ones are encased into a circular moulded sheath which fits nicely through the sealing gland in the alternator case. Using two heavier gauge wires will obviously lead to a sealing problem at the gland (as the cross section will not be circular) unless I can think of a way of making a sheath with approximately the same OD where the new cables go through the gland. 2) whether or not to use the expensive connector between the alternator and the rectifier. I decided to make a junction using two 20mm bits of bored 6mm brass hexagon bar with 4 x 4mm grub screws to secure the cable all insulated with heat shrinks 3) how to minimise the impact of flex of the loom and cables around the headstock. This is an issue for me because: a) the bulk of my connectors are forward of the headstock; and, b) I have erred on the side of caution when selecting the cable sizes for particular circuits (I have used thin wall insulation cable with more copper and less insulation than original) which means that the loom will be a bit inflexible; and c) I do not want the connections to the MUV2 unit directly behind the headstock to be subjected to fore and aft pressure when the handlebars are turned I think I have a cunning plan which if it works will be brilliant, if it does not you will never hear of it again. 4) aesthetics – a) decided that the running light and the proposed front indicators looked naff so I did away with the running light and the indicators with yet more filler on the front fly screen mold; and b) final colour of the bike, I had been leaning towards the Paul Smart Bevel Imola colours with the same old style logos, but could never quite see myself on a greeny - blue framed bike. I am as near certain as I can be of the final chosen colour, though it may yet change. As to logo style I will follow the logos cast into the cam castings Today I will have to chase up delivery of my fork legs from Maxton and the CF wheels, both of which are now overdue.

05-02-2018, 02:05 PM	#545
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	Arrived today refurbed fork legs, beautifully wrapped, with all the old components in a HD sealed plastic bad with data sheet of settings and a manual. Wheels are due later this week or early next.

05-02-2018, 02:06 PM	#546
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422

05-02-2018, 05:09 PM	#549
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,561	Or ... "if you can't fix it with cable ties ..... you aren't using enough cable ties". As my eldest son said to me just after I'd fixed his pedal-bin, using ...... you guessed it. It was still working on my next visit some months later, though by Christmas it had given up the ghost. Just needed a cable-tie service though, I reckon. Wow on the forks. That looks just like the package that I also hope to receive ... someday. (I have similar, all silver, 50/54mm forks, though mine are non-adjustable). So what adjustments did you go for then ? In fact I'm very interested in all the details. Also, I notice that your original internals have linear springing. Were the forks originally from a monster ? More pics would be good, particularly of the adjusters. Finally, if I can be cheeky .. should you end up deciding to bin the old internals I'd happily pay postage and packing if you binned them in my direction. I'm just interested to have a poke around and see exactly how they tick really, but also possibly with a view to modding the cartridges, or at least seeing how/if they can be cut open.

06-02-2018, 05:10 AM	#550
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	Jez 900ie: I will let you know how cunning the plan was/is when I know whether (or not ) it works. My original plan re colour scheme was to copy the Paul Smart Ducati look, silver tank a light blue/green frame (with just a fly-screen) but the M900 monster will be a bit smaller than the bevel and I do think the original bike’s presence enabled that colour scheme to work. Also, black CF wheels on my bike change the look over the spoked and will not go right with/ overpower the silver /blue green option. I will try to keep you all guessing as to the actual colours/finish chosen just as long as I can. I promise pictures of CF wheels will be posted as and when they arrive. Utopia: Re cable ties: For about 5 years in the early 90s a mate and I entered classic car rallies in his 1954 Austin Healey 100/4 (precursor to the Healey 3000), him driving and me navigating. This was fitted with a 2.7 litre 4 cylinder Austin truck engine, (an all iron long stroke lump about 90 bhp originally at 4600rpm in the Healey with twin SUs). After a lot of tuning, 100M alloy head, 4 speed with 2 speed full power overdrive, bumpy cam, big valves, lightened rocker gear and 2 x 2” SUs we got it to about 150bhp at 5800rpm. Fabulous car to drive and quicker up the Col de Torini than anything else (works replica Healey 3000s (about 225bhp), E types (about 265bhp), TR6s (tuned to about 175bhp). Our first rally was the classic Monte Carlo and we finished building the car the night before the start from Bristol. We had lots of adventures on that (and subsequent) Monte Carlo (and other) rallies. First, we stripped the splines in the OS rear knock off wire wheel and had to swap it for a front wheel which then meant no front brake on one side. At 2 am at 7 degrees below somewhere in the mountains above Monte Carlo the handbrake cable chewed through and shorted out the loom causing the car to stop with no lights whatsoever. The point re cable ties is that on the last night of that first rally on the run down into Monte Carlo after 30 straight hours in the car just as we could see the finish about 15 miles away, there was a horrible graunching sound from under the bonnet. We discovered dynamo was hanging forlornly off the slotted adjuster bracket with the fan belt now so loose that it had been chewed up by the fan. The dynamo was from a truck about 175mm diameter and weighing at least 10 kilos and the substantial 10mm steel plate acting as the pivot bracket had separated. Fortunately, in our emergency spares kit we had the biggest cable ties I had ever seen, two of these were pressed into service and tightened with mole grips, forcing the two separated halves of the fatigued steel to match grain for grain. We drove to the finish (103rd out of 130 finishers, 200 starters) and the car, next day, was driven home from Monte Carlo to Calais in 13 hours (because we both had to be back at work on Monday) and then on to Nottingham. Cable ties, I love them, except on the outside of Ducati frames holding the wiring in place. These forks originally came from a non-running S4 I bought for £500 less tank and seat and wheels and front brake system. The original M900 legs are non-adjustable and the gold anodising has faded and been eroded by chafing brake pipes.

06-02-2018, 05:11 AM	#551
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	Jez 900ie: I will let you know how cunning the plan was/is when I know whether (or not ) it works. My original plan re colour scheme was to copy the Paul Smart Ducati look, silver tank a light blue/green frame (with just a fly-screen) but the M900 monster will be a bit smaller than the bevel and I do think the original bike’s presence enabled that colour scheme to work. Also, black CF wheels on my bike change the look over the spoked and will not go right with/ overpower the silver /blue green option. I will try to keep you all guessing as to the actual colours/finish chosen just as long as I can. I promise pictures of CF wheels will be posted as and when they arrive. Utopia: Re cable ties: For about 5 years in the early 90s a mate and I entered classic car rallies in his 1954 Austin Healey 100/4 (precursor to the Healey 3000), him driving and me navigating. This was fitted with a 2.7 litre 4 cylinder Austin truck engine, (an all iron long stroke lump about 90 bhp originally at 4600rpm in the Healey with twin SUs). After a lot of tuning, 100M alloy head, 4 speed with 2 speed full power overdrive, bumpy cam, big valves, lightened rocker gear and 2 x 2” SUs we got it to about 150bhp at 5800rpm. Fabulous car to drive and quicker up the Col de Torini than anything else (works replica Healey 3000s (about 225bhp), E types (about 265bhp), TR6s (tuned to about 175bhp). Our first rally was the classic Monte Carlo and we finished building the car the night before the start from Bristol. We had lots of adventures on that (and subsequent) Monte Carlo (and other) rallies. First, we stripped the splines in the OS rear knock off wire wheel and had to swap it for a front wheel which then meant no front brake on one side. At 2 am at 7 degrees below somewhere in the mountains above Monte Carlo the handbrake cable chewed through and shorted out the loom causing the car to stop with no lights whatsoever. The point re cable ties is that on the last night of that first rally on the run down into Monte Carlo after 30 straight hours in the car just as we could see the finish about 15 miles away, there was a horrible graunching sound from under the bonnet. We discovered dynamo was hanging forlornly off the slotted adjuster bracket with the fan belt now so loose that it had been chewed up by the fan. The dynamo was from a truck about 175mm diameter and weighing at least 10 kilos and the substantial 10mm steel plate acting as the pivot bracket had separated. Fortunately, in our emergency spares kit we had the biggest cable ties I had ever seen, two of these were pressed into service and tightened with mole grips, forcing the two separated halves of the fatigued steel to match grain for grain. We drove to the finish (103rd out of 130 finishers, 200 starters) and the car, next day, was driven home from Monte Carlo to Calais in 13 hours (because we both had to be back at work on Monday) and then on to Nottingham. Cable ties, I love them, except on the outside of Ducati frames holding the wiring in place. These forks originally came from a non-running S4 I bought for £500 less tank and seat and wheels and front brake system. The original M900 legs are non-adjustable and the gold anodising has faded and been eroded by chafing brake pipes.

06-02-2018, 05:15 AM	#552
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	Utopia cont: Sorry, but I may still want the fork internals for an “upgrade” to a 1992 750SS which is about third on the to do project list. If they will not fit then you can have them, however I shall not be checking whether or not they are any use to me for at least another year.

06-02-2018, 06:57 AM	#553
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	Do not know why it keeps posting twice??? In the car picture above it is me driving but shortly afterwards I got banned from that seat because on a narrow, twisty mountain road I left it in third instead of changing down to second and even on just above tick-over revs there was enough torque from the long stroke heavy flywheel engine to make the rear wheels spin and we ended up facing the wrong way. Re the forks and settings The RH leg controls the rebound damping and the LH the compression damping, both have come set at 12 clicks from fully home. I have no idea how many clicks constitutes fully out. I am advised by the manual to set the static sag at between 25 and 30mm and the forks come with a 12mm preload (set by spacers beneath the caps I believe) Based on my weight at 90 kilos in riding gear, no pillion capability and an assumed weight of the bike of 150kg, the springs are 0.9Kg/mm, presumably linear not progressive springs. The oil in both legs is Putoline Formula 5 (presumably 5 weight oil) with the air gap in both legs set at 140mm. I assume this is with the leg vertical and not in a set of yokes. Hope this helps

06-02-2018, 01:16 PM	#554
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,561	No worries on the old internals .. I assumed you'd probably be using them for something yourself .. just wanted to save them in the unlikely event that they were destined for the bin. If they're S4 forks, that puts paid to my notion that early monsters were fitted with progressive springs, with linear ones reserved the sports/superbikes (both my two sets of forks have progressive). Interesting that the preload adjustment is by shims. Some might consider that a negative point because of the inconvenience but to my way of thinking its fine for a road bike because preload is something that you pretty much set up once and then forget about. And shims are the tidier solution. Personally, I love the blue/green frame of the early Paul Smarts. I agree with you that it may not suit the monster frame so much though. For me, the classic Ducati gold/bronze takes some beating on an older monster. Mind you, Gazza's mate does powdercoating that looks just like polished ally. ??