Slow Monster rebuild - Page 3

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 07:12 PM

I took the bike down to MADASL to get the exhaust headers made. The original exhaust had a large dent in the front down pipe as a consequence of me riding over a 300mm kerb and grounding/flattening it.
The rear header had to be cut off with a Dremel as the bolts at the first pipe junction were seized and I managed to completely strip the hex on the first clamp. Hammered in Torx bits did not shift it and the only way the Dremel cutter would fit meant the stream of sparks was coming directly at my face - not pleasant.
Mark at MADASL is brilliant he also machined the flywheel and lightened the main drive pinion and the clutch drive gear and the jack shaft gear for the cam drive. It is not possible to machine massive amounts off the early Monster flywheel because of the need to maintain the ignition pick up positions on the flywheel. I think about 2kg became swarf.

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 07:17 PM

image hosting no account

image hosting sitetimage.org/app.php]how to take screenshots[/url]

The above pictures do not really show the headers and I will post more /better pictures at some later date. The tailpipe is stainless and Chinese and cost the princely sum of £55 from Banggood.com.
I was very pleased with the way Mark made the tail pipe sit to look just right. He also said that the distance from the ports to the junction piece was within 5mm. He also accommodated my wish to have a parallelogram rear brake hanger. With the lightening of the various gears, the manufacture of the headers, and the supply and fitting of rear ride height adjusters the total bill was c£700 but I needed to hire two vans to drop it to him and back home again , another £60 plus another £70 fuel. I will need to weld a bracket to the rear frame to make a steady for the tailpipe and make a bracket with rubber isolation mounts.

Dirty · 02-01-2017, 08:14 PM

This is brilliant

If you want to avoid the messy advertising after your pics copy the 'direct link' instead and Come back here, click the little yellow square ->

above the text box and paste the link in the box

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 09:05 PM

More progress on the seat, the process is very long and very arduous. First make the skeleton, rub it down and skim with body filler, rub that down and you break through to the foam so at least another skim and rub down is required.
Then paint with primer resin and rub down again, find you have broken through again re-skim with body filler and re paint with primer resin and rub down again. paint with high gloss mould resin and rub down again with 240, 400, 600, 800, 1000 and 1500 wet and dry paper and see if the surface will take a high polish. If not repeat the previous processes. Then polish with rubbing compound and polish to a high gloss.
That gets you a male mould from which you can make a female mould that will be the basis of the finished article. 5 coats of release agent are then applied and the female mould can be defined. It has however to be made in such a way that it can be separated from the male mould. This involves cutting a sheet of clear polyester to match the profile of the male mould along a line where the mould will be split about 50mm bigger than the profile of the male mould. Using the polyester foam blocks glue gunned to the male mould attach the clear polyester sheet and seal the edges with wax so that there is no casting line in the female mould. Use the wax to form pyramids on the clear polyester sheet about every 75 mm to form registers so that the mould will always go back in exactly the same place.
Apply 5 coats of release agent to the polyester sheet and then apply I gel coat resin to one half of the mould and the polyester sheet mould divider then 3 or 4 layers of glass fibre matt and let it cure. When cured strip off the polyester sheet mould divider and apply release agent to the face exposed by removal of the divider, then gel coat and 3/4 layers of fibreglass to the other side of the mould. That gets you a repeatable female mould.
Apply another 5 coats of release agent followed by high gloss resin, followed by the CF sheet and resin 3 or four layers as required for strength.
So far I have made the male mould and cut the polyester sheet for the mold divider. However every time I look at the male mould I think I could do better

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 09:17 PM

image hosting without registration

screen shot windows

screen shot on windows

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 09:19 PM

I also started to think about the petrol tank. The seat can be made in 2 halves, the tank however depending upon its design will have to be made in at least a 3 part mould, two halves for the top surface and at least one for the bottom. The top and the bottom will then have to be bonded together. The inner bonding layer would need to be a resin impervious to attack by ethanol. The body of the tank would be Kevlar reinforced carbon fibre.
I wanted about a 4 gallon tank to give enough range and I also wanted the fuel carried as close to the centre of gravity as possible. Moving the battery and coils from above the rear cylinder would help with both these objectives. I also felt it would be better to try and restrict the extent to which the tank over-reached the top frame rails.
The first problem was where to start, defining the side view or defining the underside of the tank, consideration also had to be made as to how it would be secured to the frame, the position of the tap(s) and the filler and breather pipes and the extent to which baffles may be required within the tank to prevent sloshing.

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 09:28 PM

Work started on the tank base

image post

photo uploadingg/image/s09qtzlo9/]

image upload no resizetbj4ifpp/Tank_base_plug_3.jpg[/img][/url]post images

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 09:29 PM

photo uploading

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 09:37 PM

Work on the tank skeleton

upload photos

imgurl

screenshot windows

imgurl

Flip · 02-01-2017, 09:45 PM

Just what I need to be reading as I sip the last of my Christmas Ale.

Fantastic!!!!

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 09:47 PM

The last picture above shows the plug for the enclosure for the coils and fuse box and starter solenoid resting approximately where it should sit, behind and below the headstock.
I was worried at this point that the extremely close fit between the bottom of the tank and the top of the rear cylinder would turn that part of the tank into a petrol boiler. Also with the coil enclosure effectively partially blocking airflow to the rear cylinder, which already has a reputation for running hot and the planned panels to fit between the top and bottom frame rails immediately aft of the headstock to prevent moisture ingress to the electrics I was concerned that the carbs would also be starved of cold air.
Accordingly some scoops were fabricated to direct air to the carb area and to divert air to the rear cylinder.
How they will be fixed in position is yet to be determined

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 09:50 PM

The petrol boiler problem was all

adult image hosteviated also by modifying the tank base, losing about a litre in capacity in so doing.

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 10:04 PM

More tank progress

how to do a screenshot on a pc

free upload

[url=https://postimage.org/]photo hosting[/url

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 10:05 PM

Sorry all upside down (but not in my photo gallery)

Davy · 02-01-2017, 10:17 PM

Great read 350TSS And I thought I had problems trying to get organised to replace 8 cylinder head studs..I'd be interested in buying any original bits you no longer want need.

02-01-2017, 08:14 PM	#33
Dirty Bockloks Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: London Bike: No Bike Yet! Posts: 4,601	This is brilliant If you want to avoid the messy advertising after your pics copy the 'direct link' instead and Come back here, click the little yellow square -> above the text box and paste the link in the box __________________ Wounds heal, chicks dig scars, glory lasts forever Beware of eBay

02-01-2017, 09:28 PM	#37
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	Work started on the tank base image post photo uploadingg/image/s09qtzlo9/]image upload no resizetbj4ifpp/Tank_base_plug_3.jpg[/img][/url]post images

02-01-2017, 09:45 PM	#40
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	Just what I need to be reading as I sip the last of my Christmas Ale. Fantastic!!!! __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you!

02-01-2017, 10:17 PM	#45
Davy Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Derry Bike: M900 Posts: 358	Great read 350TSS And I thought I had problems trying to get organised to replace 8 cylinder head studs..I'd be interested in buying any original bits you no longer want need. __________________ 1994 M900 Black

02-01-2017, 07:12 PM	#31
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	I took the bike down to MADASL to get the exhaust headers made. The original exhaust had a large dent in the front down pipe as a consequence of me riding over a 300mm kerb and grounding/flattening it. The rear header had to be cut off with a Dremel as the bolts at the first pipe junction were seized and I managed to completely strip the hex on the first clamp. Hammered in Torx bits did not shift it and the only way the Dremel cutter would fit meant the stream of sparks was coming directly at my face - not pleasant. Mark at MADASL is brilliant he also machined the flywheel and lightened the main drive pinion and the clutch drive gear and the jack shaft gear for the cam drive. It is not possible to machine massive amounts off the early Monster flywheel because of the need to maintain the ignition pick up positions on the flywheel. I think about 2kg became swarf.

02-01-2017, 07:17 PM	#32
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	image hosting no account image hosting sitetimage.org/app.php]how to take screenshots[/url] The above pictures do not really show the headers and I will post more /better pictures at some later date. The tailpipe is stainless and Chinese and cost the princely sum of £55 from Banggood.com. I was very pleased with the way Mark made the tail pipe sit to look just right. He also said that the distance from the ports to the junction piece was within 5mm. He also accommodated my wish to have a parallelogram rear brake hanger. With the lightening of the various gears, the manufacture of the headers, and the supply and fitting of rear ride height adjusters the total bill was c£700 but I needed to hire two vans to drop it to him and back home again , another £60 plus another £70 fuel. I will need to weld a bracket to the rear frame to make a steady for the tailpipe and make a bracket with rubber isolation mounts.

02-01-2017, 09:05 PM	#34
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	More progress on the seat, the process is very long and very arduous. First make the skeleton, rub it down and skim with body filler, rub that down and you break through to the foam so at least another skim and rub down is required. Then paint with primer resin and rub down again, find you have broken through again re-skim with body filler and re paint with primer resin and rub down again. paint with high gloss mould resin and rub down again with 240, 400, 600, 800, 1000 and 1500 wet and dry paper and see if the surface will take a high polish. If not repeat the previous processes. Then polish with rubbing compound and polish to a high gloss. That gets you a male mould from which you can make a female mould that will be the basis of the finished article. 5 coats of release agent are then applied and the female mould can be defined. It has however to be made in such a way that it can be separated from the male mould. This involves cutting a sheet of clear polyester to match the profile of the male mould along a line where the mould will be split about 50mm bigger than the profile of the male mould. Using the polyester foam blocks glue gunned to the male mould attach the clear polyester sheet and seal the edges with wax so that there is no casting line in the female mould. Use the wax to form pyramids on the clear polyester sheet about every 75 mm to form registers so that the mould will always go back in exactly the same place. Apply 5 coats of release agent to the polyester sheet and then apply I gel coat resin to one half of the mould and the polyester sheet mould divider then 3 or 4 layers of glass fibre matt and let it cure. When cured strip off the polyester sheet mould divider and apply release agent to the face exposed by removal of the divider, then gel coat and 3/4 layers of fibreglass to the other side of the mould. That gets you a repeatable female mould. Apply another 5 coats of release agent followed by high gloss resin, followed by the CF sheet and resin 3 or four layers as required for strength. So far I have made the male mould and cut the polyester sheet for the mold divider. However every time I look at the male mould I think I could do better

02-01-2017, 09:17 PM	#35
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	image hosting without registration screen shot windows screen shot on windows

02-01-2017, 09:19 PM	#36
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	I also started to think about the petrol tank. The seat can be made in 2 halves, the tank however depending upon its design will have to be made in at least a 3 part mould, two halves for the top surface and at least one for the bottom. The top and the bottom will then have to be bonded together. The inner bonding layer would need to be a resin impervious to attack by ethanol. The body of the tank would be Kevlar reinforced carbon fibre. I wanted about a 4 gallon tank to give enough range and I also wanted the fuel carried as close to the centre of gravity as possible. Moving the battery and coils from above the rear cylinder would help with both these objectives. I also felt it would be better to try and restrict the extent to which the tank over-reached the top frame rails. The first problem was where to start, defining the side view or defining the underside of the tank, consideration also had to be made as to how it would be secured to the frame, the position of the tap(s) and the filler and breather pipes and the extent to which baffles may be required within the tank to prevent sloshing.

02-01-2017, 09:29 PM	#38
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	photo uploading

02-01-2017, 09:37 PM	#39
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	Work on the tank skeleton upload photos imgurl screenshot windows imgurl

02-01-2017, 09:47 PM	#41
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	The last picture above shows the plug for the enclosure for the coils and fuse box and starter solenoid resting approximately where it should sit, behind and below the headstock. I was worried at this point that the extremely close fit between the bottom of the tank and the top of the rear cylinder would turn that part of the tank into a petrol boiler. Also with the coil enclosure effectively partially blocking airflow to the rear cylinder, which already has a reputation for running hot and the planned panels to fit between the top and bottom frame rails immediately aft of the headstock to prevent moisture ingress to the electrics I was concerned that the carbs would also be starved of cold air. Accordingly some scoops were fabricated to direct air to the carb area and to divert air to the rear cylinder. How they will be fixed in position is yet to be determined

02-01-2017, 09:50 PM	#42
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	The petrol boiler problem was all adult image hosteviated also by modifying the tank base, losing about a litre in capacity in so doing.

02-01-2017, 10:04 PM	#43
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	More tank progress how to do a screenshot on a pc free upload [url=https://postimage.org/]photo hosting[/url

02-01-2017, 10:05 PM	#44
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	Sorry all upside down (but not in my photo gallery)