1100 Evo or 1000 DS?

[makemdan]

15t sprocket,14 tooth sprocket ordered
rexxer flash on hold till end of season because.....

Well, 100 miles on the twisties in Northumberland yesterday, on roads that I know proved to be a bit challenging if not a little scary. the front suspension is pretty agricultural alm ost felt like it was bottoming out but I wasn`t going fast enough. Every bump was a boneshaker
So I need to return comp and reb to stock,wind in the sag and start from there. I note ChrisP`s K Tech upgrade seems to be the way to go but I can't afford that just yet.

When I had the S2R with knackered forks I bought Capo`s originals from his S4 when he upgraded to ohlins (was great to meet him and so sad not to be able to now) and I just wondered if there are any suitable forks from other bikes
that would be suitable

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by makemdan

the front suspension is pretty agricultural alm ost felt like it was bottoming out but I wasn`t going fast enough. Every bump was a boneshaker
So I need to return comp and reb to stock,wind in the sag and start from there. I note ChrisP`s K Tech upgrade seems to be the way to go but I can't afford that just yet.

Your experience with the Evo forks is pretty typical. Agricultural is the perfect description. You say you weren't going fast enough to bottom the forks but don't rule it out. The Evo has progressive springs and the first part of the stroke is pretty soft and gets compressed quite easily leaving only a reduced firmer part of the stroke to deal with bigger bumps or hard braking. Try slipping a cable tie round the stantion to see exactly how much travel you're actually using - you might be surprised.

Because of the progressive springs and ineffective damping, it's unlikely that you'll see much improvement simply by adjusting them. I carried out the same K-tech mods as Chris but the lightest springs they could fit were 8.5N/mm and I really wanted 7.5N/mm. I subsequently sent the forks to Maxton, who made a different spring spacer and fitted the 7.5N/mm I wanted.

If you don't want to commit to a full upgrade, you could consider just fitting single rate springs tailored to your weight with different fork oil. Crawsue did this - I sold him my 8.5N/mm springs. I believe he needed to modify the fork tops slightly to accommodate the springs so you could PM him to see what exactly was involved, what it cost and whether it was worth it.

I think I'd recommended tuning your current forks rather than fitting some from another model - even if you pick them up cheap, you're still likely to have to change their springing and damping to suit the Evo.

It's definitely worth the effort though - roads that were 'challenging' on standard springs are now a joy with the uprated suspension.

[makemdan]

I've had my forks revalved and resprung by my (sort of ) local Ktech specialist. There were nearer options but KRG seemed the best option having sorted suspension on EVOs before. Couldn't stretch to a Nitron shock but he tried to find components to revalve and respring the shock but unsuccessful, so the shock has had a heavier oil and an Ohlins linear spring fitted. All matched to my weight.

So time to get my ECU to Neil at which point I find I have a DP air filter. So the bike has had both Lambdas removed, plugged and electric connection plugged, exhaust valve removed, carbon termis, DP air filter and top, DP seat all done before I bought the bike. Why? It puzzles me why anyone would upgrade all this and not remap the ECU. I checked the dash and no reference to DP there so I'm wondering if the remap has been done......but if it has why is the bike so bad at closed loop. I'll ring Neil for advice but guess Ill just have to send the ECU to him and hope the remap isn't already there. The ECU shows the following which suggests to me - the novice, that it is a "race" ecu and therefore DP but the dash doesn't confirm this

M1100evoRAC
DOB1U1EOB
Cp.SIL.RAC.
96521511B


The Air filter is dry - was expecting it to be oiled as per K&N, it does look pretty new though.

Finally, is there any point in changing the filter to some other hi flow version?

[chris.p]

Originally Posted by makemdan

I've had my forks revalved and resprung by my (sort of ) local Ktech specialist. There were nearer options but KRG seemed the best option having sorted suspension on EVOs before. Couldn't stretch to a Nitron shock but he tried to find components to revalve and respring the shock but unsuccessful, so the shock has had a heavier oil and an Ohlins linear spring fitted. All matched to my weight.

So time to get my ECU to Neil at which point I find I have a DP air filter. So the bike has had both Lambdas removed, plugged and electric connection plugged, exhaust valve removed, carbon termis, DP air filter and top, DP seat all done before I bought the bike. Why? It puzzles me why anyone would upgrade all this and not remap the ECU. I checked the dash and no reference to DP there so I'm wondering if the remap has been done......but if it has why is the bike so bad at closed loop. I'll ring Neil for advice but guess Ill just have to send the ECU to him and hope the remap isn't already there. The ECU shows the following which suggests to me - the novice, that it is a "race" ecu and therefore DP but the dash doesn't confirm this

M1100evoRAC
DOB1U1EOB
Cp.SIL.RAC.
96521511B


The Air filter is dry - was expecting it to be oiled as per K&N, it does look pretty new though.

Finally, is there any point in changing the filter to some other hi flow version?

Filter is fine and does not need oiling, the ECU will be the unit that came with the exhausts and filter, if dash is showing race then it is the DP ECU, and will really benefit from then Rexxerr Flash, also the air filter inlet unit lid will have larger air entry holes to standard. https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&ur...AAAAAdAAAAABAD

[Luddite]

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts on the upgraded suspension, Ian, once you manage to get out and about.

Those ECU details you've given confirm that it is the race unit, which is supplied with the carbon Termis and performance air filter kit. It sounds like you're probably just running an unmodified DP ECU, but Neil will know the moment he plugs it in whether or not it already has a Rexxer reflash.

I don't recall my DP filter being wet when new, but it is pink as opposed to the standard one, which is white. There would be nothing to be gained from changing to another hi flow filter unless you fit an MWR but that requires modifying the airbox and probably also a custom remap to suit.

Let us know how you get on.

[Darren69]

I thought K&N's should be oiled, the oil is usually red as the pink colour would suggest?

[makemdan]

https://i.postimg.cc/yYPJkvp1/DSC-0905.jpg

The air filter is stamped Ducati Performance but the element is dark grey with a wire mesh around the filter material. There was some oil residue on the base of the filter which made me wonder if there was a spray you're meant to use. The filter itself seems to be dry so I will leave it as is.

[Darren69]

If its a cotton gauze type as it looks to be, it will be more effective if it is periodically cleaned, dried thoroughly and then re-oiled.

Very fine particulates can still pass through the cotton if it dries out and the oil is purposely sticky by design so they will get stuck to it before going into your engine.

[Luddite]

Sorry, Ian, I mislead you earlier, my DP filter isn't pink, it is grey as per your photo. (It doesn't require any oiling before use. Any oil you see on the base is probably just recycled oil mist from the crankcase breather.)

[makemdan]

No problem Vince, thanks for the reply. I'll ring Neil in the morning and organise the ecu remap.....and hope for some dry (and not too cold) weather soon.

[makemdan]

Well.... what a transformation!

Sun shining and bike ready with suspension upgrade and rexxer remap so a short 20 mile jaunt was an absolute pleasure- no surging or hunting. Not a real test of the shocks yet but they have stopped diving and the whole bike feels right. Just need a nice warm spring day for a longer test.

Still have the new sprockets and chain to do but the14 tooth front seems to be doing the biz. I need to change though as the chain is near the end of adjustment.When I change the chain and sprockets I guess I should fabricate a crankcase protector as well?

Thanks again everyone for all the extremely useful advice

[Luddite]

It really is a dramatic change, isn't it?

So pleased you're happy with the results. You may find it gets even smoother over the next couple of hundred miles as the ECU relearns all the autoadaptive parameters. In the meantime, don't be surprised or disappointed if you notice some erratic running at tickover or the revs hanging around 2k when you come to a stop - that will soon settle down.

Enjoy and let us know what you think of the suspension once you've had a chance to test it properly.

[makemdan]

Done a couple of hundred miles since getting the bike sorted, 80 miles today. Mostly b roads, some horrible single track potholed with traffic coming other way. I'm a bit rusty so each trip has felt like 1st trip of the. Season which probably puts a negative spin on my findings but here goes.

Overall I'm a tad disappointed but that may be down to me as I've been recently diagnosed with mild vertigo which could be affecting my balance.

Fast A roads and dual carriageways.

Bike is a joy to ride, love it

Fast B roads and twistes.

Suspension seems a little harsh. I had specs on (waiting for new contacts) which were bouncing on my nose and a little off putting. Bike handled well but found myself in too high a gear too many times

Single tracks-terrible road surfaces

Bike was a PIA but I've always disliked these, only on them due to enforced diversion of a diversion

So, I can't say I love the Evo yet but I think and hope I'll grow to love it.
Think I need to adjust suspension and maybe invest in a gear indicator

[Luddite]

Sorry the suspension mods haven't yet lived up to your expectations, Ian. It may just be a case of needing some fine tuning. The good thing is that, now you have quality damping valves, you will actually feel a difference as you adjust them, unlike with the stock damping where I couldn't detect much difference between wound fully in and fully out.

If you read my thread on my own suspension changes, you'll see I had similar feelings to you, even down to the specs bouncing off my nose! That's how I know the suspension's working properly now - my specs stay planted whatever the road surface.

You might want to try backing off the compression damping. I have mine wound right back to just two clicks off minimum. I've made a conscious decision to tune the forks for compliance rather than for ultimate high speed performance. I have pretty soft 7.5N/mm springs and a light 5 weight oil instead of the recommended 7.5. The result is a very compliant ride but with no bottoming so I see no need for firmer springs. The sag figures are right in the middle of the ideal settings and, after braking hard enough to activate the ABS as a check, I still have 15-20mm travel left to deal with bumps.

Out of interest, what springs did you have fitted and what is your weight, (if you don't mind me asking!)?

[makemdan]

Not at all, my weight fully kitted out is 86kg springs are 90kg.

This was the first Real ride so I'm kind of confident I can get this sorted with some adjustments