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Members: 676 | Total Threads: 50,947 | Total Posts: 519,479 Currently Active Users: 2,132 (0 active members) Please welcome our newest member, Humph |
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04-05-2015, 11:37 PM | #31 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,737
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LSL Sport Match high bars and Speedymoto top yoke |
06-05-2015, 07:16 PM | #32 |
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Finally got the new ones mounted.
The ones that I had fitted previously (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CNC-50mm-C...item2ed360dee0) I chose because of the adjustments, let me down (almost literally). The bolt holding the bars at place, went loose suddenly, and luckily it was not during braking. The bar went loose and was free to pivot down, which made the driving a bit difficult... The later ones I thought that would be better (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2715716414...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT), were a bit better, but not perfect. Again my wrist position was too sharp angle, so not good for me... Other than that, the brake lines might be difficult to get to fit well, as the clocks will be on the way(especially if they are not lowered, mine are). So my final solution was to use old clip on frames, that I got from fellow club member here in Finland, that had broken bars. I fitted the bars from these Chinese clipons and that did the trick. There is a bit more rise on these, and the shape is so that it allows the levers to be turned to a correct position. Unfortunately I have no idea what brand these are. What ever they are, they are going to stay on the bike... On the left are the Chinese clipons and on the right is the unknown clipons.. So after going all this through, I might recommend to use some "quality" brand that actually fit the monster, or find some model that you have seen fitted to one. Or you might have to try several different cheap ones (like I did) and you will end up probably using the same amount of money than you would have if you bought the bit more expensive ones straight up. If someone wants to try out either of the ones I have had in the pics, I will be happy to part with them at reasonably low cost + postage |
08-05-2015, 05:57 PM | #33 |
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08-05-2015, 06:15 PM | #34 |
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,518
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This thread spurred me into action to try the Rizoma clamps I brought from a member on here a couple of months ago.
Brought some tube and fitted the assemblies last night only to find one of the clamps is bent right at the point where the tube clamp meets the fork clamp, so the left hand bar is flat but the right hand bar is angled down about 20 deg. Must have had quite a knock to bend in that way. Job for the weekend is to heat it up and try bending it back, but it's going to be really awkward. Nasher.
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. |
08-05-2015, 07:45 PM | #35 |
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I wouldn't heat and bend Nasher, if it's had a bash I'd replace. My Rizomas (see earlier in thread) bars are bonded into the bar mount and they're aluminium.
Both if these facts preclude heating and bending. Are yours different? And did you buy them as damaged? |
08-05-2015, 08:00 PM | #36 |
Nothing to see here
Join Date: May 2005
Location: brough
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 1,550
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08-05-2015, 11:05 PM | #37 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,518
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Quote:
Yes the clamps must have been bent when I brought them, but it wasn't until I put the tubes in them that I could see it. Can't afford to just throw them away without trying to straighten them. Nasher.
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. |
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09-05-2015, 11:45 AM | #38 |
No turn left unstoned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: leicester
Bike: M750
Posts: 4,562
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They are rather nice though, Nasher.
They look like they're the same era as my Rizoma rearsets. Shame about the bend and, as you say, straightening won't be easy without distorting the main bore etc. Might I ask ...what is the centre distance between the two holes on the sticky-out bits ? I'm just wondering if some like these would fit my std top yoke. |
09-05-2015, 12:51 PM | #39 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,518
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Quote:
I'm going to turn a 22mm section on the end of a length of 1in solid bar I have later, should get enough leverage to bend them back with that, or, more likely, fracture them beyond repair. Nasher
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. |
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09-05-2015, 01:58 PM | #40 |
No turn left unstoned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: leicester
Bike: M750
Posts: 4,562
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If memory serves, aluminium alloy has unusual annealing properties.
Again, memory is vague but I think its due to the copper content in the alloy. I definitely remember something about "age-hardening" of these alloys, with copper being the culprit. So if these are old they may well be much hardened and could do with re-annealing before bending. Maybe you're familiar with this but if not, a quick google might be worthwhile. I also remember Roger Almond (customs) saying on a tv build-off programme that he annealed ally before bending it and I think his method was to blacken it witth an acetylene-rich flame, then heat until the black carbon burned off indicating that the correct temp had been reached, then (I think) quenching. Dunno whether any of this helps but it can't hinder, eh ? Thanks for the info. And good luck. |
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