Searching for a bracket to fit a high mounted exhaust

[Foggy]

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

Are the shouldered bolts/spacers for relocating the footrests further out to allow them to clear the link pipes?

Yes it would seem so from all the help I've received from everybody on this topic. Just replied to Spuggy above though as I was wondering whether I needed longer bolts for the upper 2 bolts on each side to bring the complete bracket out evenly. Guess I'll find out when I try it.

[spuggy]

Well, let's look at the parts drawing #31.

The top hanger shouldered bolt or "screw" #13 is 8000.62568, it states "QTY 4", and uses #2, "washer", part #852.1.065.1A, also "QTY 4". So the top hanger fasteners are all the same.

On the right side bottom, there's a short screw, #3 on the diagram, part #779.1.178.1A, "QTY 2". Used with a "Washer" #11, part #852.1.099.1A, also "QTY 2".

On the left side bottom, there's a long "screw" #19 part #779.1.093.1A & "QTY 2", used with "spacer" #21, part #716.1.056.1A. The parts diagram says this is "QTY 1" - which I think might be incorrect. Or maybe it isn't. These bolt through the kickstand bracket into the crankcase.

So, not rocket science. Make brackets to hold the cans, remove the footrest hangers, fit the slip pipes, adjust until it looks right, bolt everything up.

Then try to fit the footrest hangers over the pipes.

If you don't have sufficient clearance between either the hangers and the pipes or the swing arm and the pipe, then you'll need to space the hangers out enough to give the pipe clearance while allowing the swing arm to move without fouling anything.

As I would estimate your chances of scoring a complete fitting kit these days pretty much non-existent, Mr Gazza's approach would seem to be the most practical.

Figure out how much you need to space everything out (I confidently predict 10mm will do it nicely).

Making the spacers out of bar stock should be trivial enough. They look to be the same diameter as the shoulder on the bolt, for reference.

To replicate the "shouldered" part of the bolt, more bar stock the correct diameter to fit snugly into the rubber bushing aka the "vibration damper" in the hanger. Drill a hole of the correct diameter to clean the bolt, use fasteners of your choice (eg stainless or Ti, perhaps a mushroom head) and desired length, thread pitch/diameter. Mr Gazza's idea of making them look like the bolts that hold the oil cooler on is very slick...

The factory bolts tell you how much thread the factory considered provided the correct engagement (eg "how much sticks out of the shouldered part?"), just add the thickness of the spacers you're adding.

I seem to recall that the kit also came with hooked springs of a different length to hold the cans to the slip pipe. But pretty sure you can either use the originals or source those easily enough.

[Mr Gazza]

Thanks for a nice clear explanation Spuggy.
To clarify my solution to my lack of shoulder bolts in the first place, here's what I made from 1" ally bar.
Inexcusable dust from a mould making project exposed by the flash! Bike hasn't been used since December and the refresh is still ongoing.









Hopefully that explains things in pictures better than a whole bunch of words (Spuggy speak )
The dims of the top hats can be pretty much generated from the original shoulder bolts and the head pattern is up to you.
Note that the actual shoulder is reduced to about 1mm all round on the 10mm top hats, so they get a bit tender!
This is a good way of making the bolt length totally adjustable ad nauseum.

Finally here's what a previous owner thought would be a good idea to form a shoulder bolt!! Also some cup washers, original and custom.

[Foggy]

Originally Posted by spuggy

Well, let's look at the parts drawing #31.
On the left side bottom, there's a long "screw" #19 part #779.1.093.1A & "QTY 2", used with "spacer" #21, part #716.1.056.1A.

Thanks Spuggy, a most comprehensive explanation I appreciate it. My part numbers differ as it's a 1995 M600 but completely agree with the method.

So looking at the parts map on www.bike-parts-ducati.com (not sure what the map number is) my left hand bottom "screw" is 7791181A and the right hand bottom "screw" is 77912061AB. Interestingly part number 77912061AB is the part number for the LH screw on the M900 which supercedes the part number you mention (7791093A) for the left hand side. Surprised because I would expect the LH side to be longer.

[Foggy]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

To clarify my solution to my lack of shoulder bolts in the first place, here's what I made from 1" ally bar.

Thanks Gazza. In the absence of tools to fabricate the longer bolts I am hoping to pursue your previous suggestion of buying another LH screw (if it is longer) and use it on the right. Problem is no dimensions are specified and they don't know themselves, they just order them from Italy. I won't know until I try it I guess. Might avoid the insulation tape solution though !

[Mr Gazza]

You already know know how long the LH screws are, you own 2.

[Foggy]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

You already know know how long the LH screws are, you own 2.

Yes exactly that's the plan, to try the LH side bolts on the RH side when I eventually start the work buf it won't be until after the Summer. In the meantime I was trying to get bolt dimensions to see if it's feasible.

[Darren69]

So what is the torque value of plastic tape? Great bodge ffs, that is awesome!

[Foggy]

Originally Posted by Foggy

Yes exactly that's the plan, to try the LH side bolts on the RH side when I eventually start the work buf it won't be until after the Summer. In the meantime I was trying to get bolt dimensions to see if it's feasible.

Quick Update ─ after trawling the internet it seems the LH bolt is 53mm long and the RH bolt is 46mm long. Doesn't quite give me the 10mm difference I was hoping for but it depends how much spare thread there is already. I'll find out when I try it out.

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by Foggy

Quick Update ─ after trawling the internet it seems the LH bolt is 53mm long and the RH bolt is 46mm long. Doesn't quite give me the 10mm difference I was hoping for but it depends how much spare thread there is already.

You won't need longer thread if the shouldered portion is longer - 'coz you won't need the spacer if the shoulder moves it out that far. Also don't see how that helps you with the other 3 fixing points that you're also going to need to space off the frame.

There are sources for domed & countersunk "finishing" washers off-the-shelf - and countersunk stainless bolts available in a surprising (and quite pleasing) selection of lengths. Bar stock spacers & washers readily available or easily adapted with hand tools.

Doesn't seem like any real need for one-off machining. Although I often pine for access to a mid-size lathe or mill....

[Foggy]

Originally Posted by spuggy

There are sources for domed & countersunk "finishing" washers off-the-shelf - and countersunk stainless bolts available in a surprising (and quite pleasing) selection of lengths. Bar stock spacers & washers readily available or easily adapted with hand tools.

Can you recommend any sources Spuggy ?

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by Foggy

Can you recommend any sources Spuggy ?

Over here, I'd probably check McMaster Carr first. But Flea Bay would probably be my go-to otherwise.

So, I'm gonna SWAG that it's an M8 bolt (which requires a 8.2mm bore size for clearance), that the head size should be 25mm, and that the internal diameter of the rubber bush is 15mm or thereabouts. Which seems reasonable.

Countersunk finish washers (may be available in either flat or cone styles):

Stainless:

M3M4M5M6M8M10 Stainless Steel Screws Cup Washers Countersunk Finishing Washer

Countersunk Washers Finishing Washer Fasteners for Screw Parts Washers


Alloy:

ZSPEC M8 Fender-Finish Washers for M8 FHSC Flat-Head Fasteners, Billet, 10-Pack

M4/M5-M8 Aluminium Countersunk Washers DIY Washers For Countersunk Head Screws

Most of the alloy washers seem to be 6061, and may be available in all colors on anodized.

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by Foggy

Can you recommend any sources Spuggy ?

Stainless countersunk M8 bolts:

[https://www.ebay.com/itm/27463891992... SOCKET SCREWS

^^^ UK stockist, length increment by 5mm up to 80mm, and then by 10mm up to 150mm long.

Or these 316 Stainless Steel Hex Socket Bolts Countersunk Flat Head Screws M3-M16

M8 length increment by 5mm up to 70mm, then by 10mm to 100mm maximum length.

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by Foggy

Can you recommend any sources Spuggy ?

Unthreaded Alloy Standoff Spacers for M8 bolts: M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 6082 ALUMINIUM STAND OFF SPACERS COLLAR BUSHES BONNET RAISERS

^^ UK stockist, 1, 2, 5 or 10 pack options, diameters 12/16/20mm, lengths 5-50mm in increments of 5mm.

Stainless standoff spacers for M8 bolts: Stainless Steel Spacer - Standoff Collar Stand Off Spacers | M5 | M6 | M8 | M10

^^ Uk Stockist, 1, 2, 5 or 10 pack options, diameters 12.7/16/20mm, lengths 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 & 1" (LOL)...


Obviously, you could stack multiple standoff spacers to achieve the exact length(s) you want. Or someone with access to a lathe could spin you up 8 spacers in pretty short order, I'd think.

At which point I got kind of bored. There's literally 100s of suppliers of standard items like these... Moreover, once you start poking around listings like these, Flea Bay will suggest multiple similar ones too.

[Foggy]

Originally Posted by spuggy

There's literally 100s of suppliers of standard items like these... Moreover, once you start poking around listings like these, Flea Bay will suggest multiple similar ones too.

Thanks for all the info Spuggy, now I know what to search for there's loads as you say. The McMaster site looks great but I'm sure I can find a UK equivalent. My next step is to dismantle what I have and get some precise measurements. Thanks for all your help.