Parking it up for the winter.

[manwithredbike]

The throttle cables removal is the hardest part. I found them very fiddly getting them disconnected and even more fiddly reconecting them.
Before removing and stripping them, I'd try adjusting the idle jets first, just a quarter turn at a time before testing/riding again, clockwise to lean your front cylinder a bit and quarter turn anti-clockwise to richen your top one slightly.
See the diagram at the bottom of this linked page http://ducatisuite.net/carbsynch.html

[the lodger]

I would check for air leaks at the inlet manifolds. Spray the area with WD40 with the engine running to see if the revs change.

BTW I wouldn't use Easystart unless your bike is actually hard to start and even then use it sparingly.

[FrankenDesmo]

I did wonder if I could use WD40 for that, cheers.

[FrankenDesmo]

I got it back together on Sunday night, then realised my new socket sets didn't come with plug sockets, nor the correct size deep socket for the NGK plugs (18mm - the Denso ones already in it were 16mm, which I also didn't have, though a 17mm did the job to remove them ).

So got hold of an 18mm plug wrench yesterday (couldn't find a socket locally, just a whole one-piece wrench ), and put the new NGKs in. Noticed that the Densos were the equivalent of an '8' on the heat scale and the new ones are '9' (stock), so I've gone a grade colder by the looks. No idea what the implication will be, but perhaps a hotter plug is needed up here in the cold, dark north .

I plugged up the vacuum port where the scottoiler was connected as best I could (snipped a bit of the scottoiler line, jammed a bit of ~1mm wire up it, jammed it into the L-piece and put some heatshrink over the whole thing.

Bike started up a lot nicer (new plugs & air filter - go figure). All seemed well until it warmed up, then the revs went back to 2.5-3k
I tried spraying some WD40 around the inlet runners to see if there was any change, there wasn't anything perceptable. Removing the makeshift plug off the vacuum nipple caused no change, and even holding my finger over the nipple hole only dropped the revs by maybe 500, down closer to 2k.

I also noticed that the exhaust pulses from the front cylinder were not as 'smooth' as those from the top, and this seemed to be the only cylinder that was missing/hesitating. Revving the bike with my hand close to each exhaust the top cylinder was smooth & strong, but the front was very 'lumpy'. The bike stinks of unburnt petrol while running, too, so I don't know if the front cylinder is running rich, and the top lean (as the old sparkplugs seemed to indicate), which is making the front rough but the top seem OK.

I wasn't able to ride it out as I needed to hang around home waiting for a plumber, and it was bucketing down outside. This afternoon I'm going to take it for a quick, hard ride just in case that helps at all (I've got some injector cleaner in the fuel).

Otherwise I'm picking up a long screwdriver and waiting for the carbtune to turn up (and vacuum nipples with new seals and proper caps), then I'll check/adjust the sync. With the mixture screws, the advice seems to be to screw one in all the way, noting how many turns, and setting the other to the same - in my case I'm not sure which cylinder to use as a baseline as top "seems" to be running OK, but that could be because it's running lean?

What about the idle speed screw, should I be messing with that at all? The bike does seem to have had a slightly higher idle the whole time I've had it, which points to the problem that I've never actually had a solid baseline on this bike - I'm effectively sorting out niggles from it being stored for several years (the previous owner purchased it and had it running, changed the belts & oil, but it's always had at least a small hesitation and the idle not quite right, based on the brief amount of time I was riding it after buying it).

Arg, more questions than answers!

[FrankenDesmo]

Rode it last night just to see if I could 'blow it out' - no dice, same behaviour. Pulled the plugs - front cylinder black (ever so slightly wet looking at one point around the rim of the thread), top cylinder white/grey on the ground electrode.

It does pull incredibly strong if it's half throttle+, from pretty much any point in the rev range, but mostly past 4k once it's cleared the rough part of the range. Honestly this bike is so much more powerful than my previous two - feels like it'll power-wheelie in second! My first M900 must have been down on power due to high mileage aswell as being one of the soft 'W' head lumps. The S2R800 must just be a softie all round.

Carbtune has turned up, along with a new fuel filter, however I didn't order the nipple caps at the same time but with any luck they'll turn up today as well. I can then at least fit the nipples, which have fresh seals, and cap them to make sure I'm eliminating the vacuum leak. I've got myself a long PH2 screwdriver, so I'm ready to attack the sync.

Failing that, this does (from my limited knowledge) seem like an air leak somewhere, but it doesn't otherwise seem to be in the intake runners - has anyone else come across leaks in other places? Or at that point should I seriously consider stripping the carbs?

[FrankenDesmo]

Since this problem has blown up a bit and wont seem to go away, I've started another thread for it in the Engine section http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58189

[FrankenDesmo]

Since stripping & cleaning the carbs, I left the bike at the point of running with just a wee bit of tuning required. Then lockdown was announced and it went back in the shed.

Took it out again a couple of days later for a run to the supermarket only to discover that it wouldn't start - looks like the starter button was stuck in the last time I rode it. The solenoid wasn't clicking, so assumed I'd finally fried it as it's been sticking occasionally. No bother, thought I, as I have already acquired a replacement. I though I'd try a jump start off the car just to be sure, only to discover that the solenoid _does_ click (and a full charge of the bike battery causes it to click as normal, too).

However, the starter does not turn. So I connected jumper leads from the battery to the starter directly and got a definite turn out of it. So the solenoid is (allegedly) working and the starter is (allegedly) working.

Oh well, I've always wanted to do that wiring upgrade, and I am in lockdown after all...

So I've ordered a few bits and pieces: Exact Start cables, starter brushes/terminal, solenoid (already had that), oil, filter, and other sundry materials.

With any luck it'll be starting better than ever.

I've also ordered a replacement spring for the sprag clutch, just in case, but I didn't think about the tools I'd also need for that (torque wrench, flywheel puller, etc), so I'll hang onto the spring until such time as I need to replace it or have the tools and inclination to get in and do it.

On top of the starter circuit upgrade, I've also got some minor side-mods on the go:
- Replaced the mirrors with bar-end type (looking much better without the added height of the mirrors)
- Which also meant I needed a mount for the brake reservoir (and discovered that the mirror mounts are M10 _fine_ pitch, which ACCU don't stock - eBay to the rescue!)
- Replace the PCV system with a K&N crankcase filter (I don't do wheelies so this shouldn't case me any problems)
- Remove the side-pods and re-route the hoses somewhere out of the way of any wind turbulence
- I've already replaced the headlights with a stock unit (w/ Carbonvani bucket), but I need to align it

Once I've got it back together and running again I can fettle the pilot screws & needle clips to hopefully smooth out that part-throttle transition in the middle of the rev range. Of course this will only be on days that I have essentials to purchase from the supermarket

[FrankenDesmo]

Another thing that I've done is take the starter button/switch assembly off and give it a good clean & grease. Upon reassembly I discovered the problem with the button sticking was most likely that the casing had been screwed onto the handlebar too tightly (which had also made the Off/Run switch stiff - both operate with ease now).

Originally Posted by FrankenDesmo

Another thing that I've done is take the starter button/switch assembly off and give it a good clean & grease. Upon reassembly I discovered the problem with the button sticking was most likely that the casing had been screwed onto the handlebar too tightly (which had also made the Off/Run switch stiff - both operate with ease now).

I don't remember exactly which Italian bike it was, but I certainly had a starter button that used to stick down and no amount of lubrication made it any better. When I got inside, I found the clearances were just too tight, so it needed some careful work with a blade to shave plastic away from the bits that stuck. Luckily, it never stuck for long enough to damage the solenoid or starter.

Nick

[Luddite]

Plenty to keep you busy there, then!

Originally Posted by FrankenDesmo

but I didn't think about the tools I'd also need for that (torque wrench, flywheel puller, etc)...

You shouldn't need a puller for the flywheel as it's not on a taper (although you may need a flywheel locking tool). The difficult bit is undoing the nut! But, assuming you can do that, then the flywheel should just pull off.

Alan has just done this himself so I'm sure he can talk you through the process if you need any further guidance. http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58254

[utopia]

If you plan to remove the PCV system, I would recommend leaving the breather unit and plastic separator box in situ and simply removing the long pipe to the airbox.
Your filter can then go on the outlet from the separator box, in place of the aforementioned pipe.
That tidies everything up fairly nicely without compromising the breather system or risking oil blowout.

[Darren69]

Gary makes a good point and I can't remember exactly what I did with the drain pipe on the airbox on my S4, but I think I just put the rubber cap back on after removing the pipework. The oil pipe was blanked off with a panel grommet and if your airbox isn't cut back too much at the front you shouldn't have an issue with water running off the tank straight into the airbox.

Currently I have a K&N filter on the crankcase breather direct which can be an issue, and ideally I want to extend it away from the crankcase as soon as I can find a suitable adapter piece to run some hose under the seat with the filter on the end, out of harms way.

[FrankenDesmo]

Good point re the drain hose chaps. I'll look at doing that as I'm not bothered by it's existence - it's just a hassle to get the bung back in the airbox each time (or slightly less hassle removing the whole hose with the airbox - but I'm aiming for minimal hassle so that the carbs are easier to get at when needed).

I had assumed the tyres must fine for a decade or two at least - but apparently 5 years is the limit! I will look seriously at getting a pair of new Diablo II's on before I do a lot of riding.

Another thing I've started looking into (for the future) is sorting out the suspension which will be a new foray for me as I've never even checked a sag let alone play around with fluid weights, springs, and replacements. I'll need to scope out a good stretch of "test" road nearby...

[FrankenDesmo]

After a bit of shakedown riding I've now discovered the next broken thing

The front brake master is leaking, so I'm going to re-kit that. It's an older AP Racing master, but fortunately their current rebuild kit works for it - I'll be tracking down one of those from a distributor on Monday.

I'm in two minds to re-kit the calipers as well (and give everything an ultrasonic clean).

[FrankenDesmo]

Only one distributor that will get the specific kit in stock so far, and they've a 6-8 week lead time

I shall see if AP themselves can help...