Slow Monster rebuild

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by 350TSS

I need to move the coils from their current location but to where?

Do you have an airbox fitted? if so there aren't many options.

Mine has no airbox and so I fitted the coils at the front of the undertank void in the airflow for better cooling.

[350TSS]

No air box will be fitted I will be using foam canister filters about 100mm diameter by about 110mm deep.
I note you have a cross brace behind the steering head - unfortunately all of that space is within 150mm of where I propose to fit the MUV2 control unit (directly under the ignition switch/lock)

[350TSS]

Productive half day today, machined up the Mark 1 brake hanger hub with its bronze bush liner and surprise, surprise the bronze bush fits the alloy hub and the bearings fit the bronze bush, all nice and snugly. Pleased with that as only my second attempt at boring tightish tolerance holes on a lathe ever.
I will probably leave it in this condition, i.e. not drilling and countersinking the 5 or 6 holes (undecided) for attachment of the 10mm caliper mounting plate until I have had a go at the Mk 2 version, if that comes out OK then I will use the Mk 2 and make the hanger plate to fit the Mk2 hub (it will have a slightly larger PCD of the attachment holes). The Mk2 hub will be tomorrow’s job.
Also I worked out where to put my coils, not the most elegant positioning but they: a) are 350mm from the electronic control unit;
b) are out of the direct airflow to the rear head;
c) are not requiring modification of the tank base;
d) will have a cooling airflow around them;
e) will be largely hidden from view by my side cooling pods; and
f) the leads to the plugs will be short and approximately the same length.
I will need to braze a bracket to the frame to take 2 x 15mm a 15mm male rubber isolation mounts.
Finally, having decided on the coil location, I modified the mold originally intended to take the coils to accept the Ignitech box, it will need filling and rubbing down but it is now 18mm less intrusive into the air stream travelling towards the rear cylinder head.

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by 350TSS

I note you have a cross brace behind the steering head - unfortunately all of that space is within 150mm of where I propose to fit the MUV2 control unit (directly under the ignition switch/lock)

I added cross-bracing in the front as to fit the split-single carbs I had to move the rear cross-brace and so lost a bit of it's integrity so wanted to compensate for this, also to add some strength.

The design of the cross-bracing is essentially as per the superbikes (888/916) which are otherwise similar to the Monster and as I knew I could no longer use the airbox I didn't need to leave the space empty.

I then fitted a carbon fibre sheet to the top of the coils to house the other electrics; relays, starter solenoid, headlight ballast etc. and the ignitech can be seen in the picture to the front right of the battery. It means there's a lot of wiring under there but everything is easily accessible but completely hidden when the tank is in place.

[350TSS]

You are of the same school of thought re electrics - as far as possible close together and not in plain view - neat

[350TSS]

I machined the Mk 2 brake hanger hub today and managed to overcut the 37mm (to 37.02 instead of 36.97) bore for the bearings so the bearings would definitely not be an interference fit. The solution was to take the hole in the hub out to 39.97mm and use the bronze bush from the Mk1 which worked out fine. I think it is a better solution as the bronze bush has an internal shoulder that will prevent the bearing walking crossways, although I will need to make a steel spacer to go between the two inner races so that the bearings are not side loaded when the wheel is tightened up. Retaining that spacer in alignment with the two bearings when the spindle is removed I have not yet worked out how to do (initial thoughts are a sheet of nylon 6mm thick fitting closely around the outside of the spacer and fitting inside the bronze bush with a loose fit so maintaining the alignment but being friction free on the rotation of the hub around the spindle). Getting all the various other bits in line when replacing the rear wheel can be a bit tricky.

I also had a bit of a ponder on my coil bracket(s). I originally intended to mount them one each side just beneath the bracket that holds originally the battery and airbox but I forgot about the vacuum petrol pump which resides on the RH side. There is just not quite enough room to put both coils on the LH side. Above the cross brace in front of the rear cylinder head seems a possibility but I may have to scallop the tank base to get clearance. Not exactly the ideal location as it will be hot under there and there will be some masking of cooling air to the vertical cylinder head. Making the requisite space can be done in two possible ways, 1) make a cut out in the existing mold which will not be easy at all or 2) make the male mold of the tank base as is and add a bit so that the resulting female has the required space envelope. Option 2 definitely preferred.

I will need to weld or braze a bracket to the cross brace and my thinking is for a 6mm aluminium plate resting on the cross brace tube and secured by the brackets with 2 x 15mm x 15mm male rubber isolation mounts per coil mounted above the plate. The coils being mounted fore and aft onto the isolation mounts with the plug leads exiting forward. My real concern with this location is the heat affecting the longevity of the coils but the original Monster coil positioning is not that far away and they would be in front of the rear cylinder head rather than above it. I do not really have a lot of other options so Hobson’s choice will have to do.

Is the brake bracket Corse / M900S style?

If so I'd be interested in purchasing something like that from you.

Ben

[350TSS]

No idea what a M900s or Corse one looks like I am afraid I think they hang below the axle and the reaction rod attaches to somewhere adjacent to the caliper, I think they also have a bracket on the crankcase to attach to the other end of the reaction rod.
Mine will be a plate that extends either side of the axle with the caliper above and the reaction rod below.
To be honest I am not in the manufacturing business apart from my own bike, and it would not be economic for me to be with the amount of F*** ups I make.

[Darren69]

When I inquired about one of the floating rear calipers Luigi Moto had for sale for a 749/999 they said they could make me one for the monster.

[Mr Gazza]

Moto Rapido made a note of all the parts needed to do a conversion to a floating rear caliper set up... So it's not a kit as such, but as good as.
It's basically the 2000 M900Sie parts, so you can cherry pick the parts and buy your own rose joints and make your own rod and bracket if you have the means.

[Darren69]

I don't think there were any bearings in the set up at all, I don't think it needed them. Iirc it was a captive top hat type spacer clamped into the wheel with the bracket hanging free to move with just bushes and fixed to the rear of the engine with a tie rod.

I had the same setup on my old 750SS but never had it apart before it got nicked.

[350TSS]

I thought about only using a bronze bush with two top hat spacers but
1) I would have to machine the two top hat spacers the same (not very likely with my record so far)
2) the bronze bush after allowing for the brims would only have been 14mm wide so would have to be a very good machined fit to the top hats otherwise there would be rock on the hanger plate.
The bearing route is heavier but nowhere near so dependent upon me be able to machine accurately.
I have still a few hurdles to get over.
a) making the hanger plate and boring a 51mm hole in it
b) aligning the reaction rod take off point on the hanger plate width ways with the spherical bearing to be attached to the crankcase
c) getting the attachment to the crankcase and its spherical bearing to be a point that makes a parallelogram when the suspension is mid travel and the wheel adjustment is mid travel

[350TSS]

Oh and
d) aligning the disc width ways with the centre of the caliper between the pistons when it the wheel is inserted, (probably by spacers between the wheel hub and the disc)
e) drilling a hole on the brake hanger to take the hall effect speedo sensor, reacting against one of the disc retaining bolts.
All good fun

Originally Posted by 350TSS

No idea what a M900s or Corse one looks like I am afraid I think they hang below the axle and the reaction rod attaches to somewhere adjacent to the caliper, I think they also have a bracket on the crankcase to attach to the other end of the reaction rod.
Mine will be a plate that extends either side of the axle with the caliper above and the reaction rod below.
To be honest I am not in the manufacturing business apart from my own bike, and it would not be economic for me to be with the amount of F*** ups I make.

No worries was just chucking the option out there for you

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Moto Rapido made a note of all the parts needed to do a conversion to a floating rear caliper set up... So it's not a kit as such, but as good as.
It's basically the 2000 M900Sie parts, so you can cherry pick the parts and buy your own rose joints and make your own rod and bracket if you have the means.

Wonder what the cost is as they are silly money when they appear on ebay etc