1999 M600 has been sitting for 5 years - what to do?

[Mr Gazza]

I think Darkness has nailed it, it must be the carb warmer tap.
It's a diverter valve, so oil always goes to the oil cooler whichever tap position is selected (or back to the engine if there is no oil cooler). The tap lever points in the direction of flow.
It diverts (warm) engine oil into galleries in the float bowls to help combat carb icing. I had one on my carburated M900 and it used to do the trick for me, but the general feeling is that they don't work. (I disagree).
I have only seen them fitted to Monsters with oil coolers, but I believe that they can be fitted without an oil cooler.. I don't think the 600s had coolers? but this set up was available as a kit I think. The tap sits on the right just below the frame rail and above the front belt cover, if I recall.
I couldn't find a picture of one fitted, but this gives the general idea.

[jamminbmx]

Yep that’s exactly what it is! Weird. Won’t be messing with that!

[jamminbmx]

How do you guys get the oil filter off? Gonna do oil as well.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by jamminbmx

How do you guys get the oil filter off? Gonna do oil as well.

I always used to pinch this baby boa jar opener from the kitchen, which worked a treat:



https://www.amazon.co.uk/Baby-Boa-St.../dp/B00096JDJY

Now I fit a K&N KN-153, which has a 17mm hex on the end, making removal and installation a cinch.

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...55&postcount=5



Don't forget the gauze filter on the right side crankcase.

[jamminbmx]

Why don’t all filters come with a nut! Genius. I’ve got some shopping to do then back to the shed! Will let you know / ask more questions soon!

[utopia]

This might be being a bit fussy but since you'll have some oil to hand while doing an oil change, it wouldn't hurt to lift the four valve covers and squirt a bit of oil over the cams and rocker gear.
I'm sure many wouldn't bother but if the motor hasn't run for five years, a bit of lube around the valve gear might be lacking by now.
The covers are easy enough to remove and their gaskets are rubber coated metal and should be reusable .. mine are still the originals after nearly 20 yrs.
I held back from posting this earlier but you seem to have benefited from a cautious approach so far, so why not go the whole hog ?

Its probably also worth mentioning that if you do decide to do the above you'll need to raise the petrol tank BUT don't do this unless there is very little fuel in there.
This is because the hinge on the tank is a known weak point and lifting the tank when there's a lot of fuel in it is the major cause of leaks in this area.
Also, I would advise you not to use the little tank prop fitted to the bike.
It only works on one side, which causes the tank to twist and adds stress to the hinge.
Instead prop the tank up with a wooden batten, about 18 inches long, between the deepest part of the under-tank recess and the airbox, just in front of the coils and cdi units.
Not only does this reduce stress on the tank hinge but its a much more reliable prop too.

[alan s4]

Be very careful if using K+N filters with the nut attached, lot's of reports of the weld fracturing if over-tightened, oil on back tyre not so good........

[jamminbmx]

Cheers! I have the tank off anyway so oil in valve covers sounds sensible. Good tip ref k&n. I’m gonna buy a filter wrench anyway so Hiflo will be fine.

[Flip]

If it is a genuine Ducati oil filter then it will have a unique number of flats meaning you either need the correct Ducati spin on filer tool or if the Boa doesn't loosen it you can just about get a screw driver in it and butcher it to get it off. Do not try that method on fitting the new one .

Mr G is quite correct that the carb heater was available as a kit for the non cooler equipped 600's and personally I agree with him on them working well (once the oil is up to temperature) to eliminate the carb icing that can affect them in certain conditions.

As for belts I have used the ExactFit ones for the last couple of changes and extended the change times from two to three years as they recommend. I have found Stuart there to be super helpful and will give a discount if paying by PayPal..

Once you start getting into the resto properly it may also be prudent to check out the tensioner and fixed bearings for the timing belts as failure of those would undo any benefit of new belts.

There's also rebuild kits available for the vacuum pump from Allens Performance but if your 600 has a vacuum tap as well (like my 900) then that can't be rebuilt so replace that along with the vacuum hoses and fuel filter for the best performance of keeping the carbs full.

[jamminbmx]

Cheers for all the advise. I ordered Exact belts and all filters. Like the idea of 3 year intervals!

Even got a filter wrench as it was only a fiver and might stop me putting a screwdriver through my hand. I'm hoping the vacuum taps and pump still work but we will see. Nearly the weekend Hope my bits turn up!

EDIT: Woah! Stu at Exact posted my belts already...an hour after ordering! Hows that for service

[Flip]

Originally Posted by jamminbmx

Cheers for all the advise. I ordered Exact belts and all filters. Like the idea of 3 year intervals!

Even got a filter wrench as it was only a fiver and might stop me putting a screwdriver through my hand. I'm hoping the vacuum taps and pump still work but we will see. Nearly the weekend Hope my bits turn up!

EDIT: Woah! Stu at Exact posted my belts already...an hour after ordering! Hows that for service

Depending on how it has been stored, the years can take their toll on the tubing and coupled with Ethanol spiked fuel so, unfortunately can the diaphragms in the pumps.

They're not bad to do but I know it all adds up and once you start down that road.......



This was part of a refresh I did a few years ago:



Totally agree with you about the service from Stu and the belts look every bit as good if not better than the Ducati ones, which if what you read is true are now made to a lesser spec in the Far East since Audi took over- the 2v belts have certainly gone up in price as part of their 'cost alignment' process that's for sure.

[Darren69]

I wouldn't worry about draining the carbs as they will be dry after all that time. Bung plenty of Redex or similar fuel cleaner in fresh petrol, let it flow into carbs and leave to soak overnight. Treat all the carb adjustment screws with Plus gas and then if you need to adjust use a JIS screwdriver not a Phillips one as they will probably round off and carbs will then be scrap!

[Darren69]

You also need to check that the carb floats haven't stuck open and filled the engine with fuel before you try to turn it over. If the fuel tank is emptier than you expected and the oil lever over full then that is likely what happened.

[jamminbmx]

Darren can the fuel run from the tank to the carb when standing? Mine has a vacuum fuel tap and a vacuum fuel pump so I was hoping this was not an option!

If fuel wont flow to carbs then I guess I'll be looking at pump rebuilds and fuel line replacement!

[Darren69]

If the tap is still working ok. Can you be sure? Probably worth checking it. I remember reading fairly recently on here that someone had filled their crankcase full of fuel due to leaking tap and float valves.

I'm not sure if it was a vacuum tap or had been replaced with a manual tap because usually it is the opposite problem with that original arrangement and fuel does not want to flow if the bikes been stood a while.