New Owner 97 M900

[Darren69]

Thanks for pointing out that. I should've said mine is an '02 S4. I didn't realise they were a different operation to the early ones. Be careful though because the keys are quite soft and bend and break easily. My 748 key is slightly twisted and its not been abused, just normal use.

[CarloL]

Thanks! ordered a new key from Ducati too , just so I have a spare

[CarloL]

Quick Q on the clutch , it seems to have a very small threshold between slipping it and giving it enough throttle to get the sweet spot from low revs

Are they known to be a bit clunky at low revs, especially starting off?

Do you guys every get a back fire , (sounds from the airbox area) carbs I reckon , if you pin it from low revs in a gear that may be too high or if you are doing alot of stop start traffic , she can splutter a bit when you pin the throttle open

I am messing around , learning the gear ratio's

[utopia]

Generally speaking, all Ducatis are said to be a little "clunky at low revs".
Its true to a certain extent, but while it bothers some folk, others accept it as a necessary feature of the kind of motor they prefer.
Its probably also true to say as a generalisation that the bigger the motor and the cruder the fuelling, the more clunky it will be.
So your carby 900 is probably one of the more "clunky".
My carby 750 probably comes fairly close behind, but the smaller "bangs" reduce the effect .. and that's one of the reasons I chose it.

In my opinion, and from experience of my 750, a Ducati needs a good clutch and you need to use it, particularly for slow turns at road junctions etc.
My technique is to throttle off as I slow into the turn but if the turn is slow enough to be getting into "clunky" territory, I never open the throttle again without first momentarily dipping the clutch, for just an instant, and then immediately taking up the drive via throttle and clutch combined. .. if that makes any sense.
This significantly reduces the chain snatch and clunkiness.

I reckon you do need a silky clutch though.
Your bike has a dry clutch and I notice that it still has the std closed cover.
That's fine, but I wonder if there is a bit of a build up of dust in there, causing a less than silky operation.
Just a thought.

Other things which can exacerbate the clunky tendency are badly adjusted or imbalanced carbs, badly adjusted or worn chain and even poorly positioned controls.

But I wouldn't rush to do anything to the bike because you'll get to know its character and how best to deal with it much better after a few more miles, and you might find that the problem goes away.

I suppose I should also mention the popular "smaller gearbox sprocket" mod, which many claim to be helpful in avoiding low speed clunkiness.
It seems to work for some folk but for me its not the solution .. in fact it can add to the problem. I've actually gone the other way and have slightly raised rather than lowered the overall gearing.
But I mention it for the sake of completeness.

If it was my bike, I think I'd just check that the chain was adjusted ok and had no tight spots .. and lube it.
Then I'd ride it some more while pondering the clutch action and considering removing the clutch cover and blowing the dust out at some later stage.
When that time came, I would also check the clutch over completely, so it might be a bit more than just a quick blow over.

But basically "they're all like that, sir" .. and you'll get used to it massively in the first thousand miles or two.

[Jez900ie]

I haven't had mine that long either. Its a different bike to yours but it has its own quirks - as no doubt does my riding!

I am resisting making changes to the bike save for a few cosmetics and the headlight until I've put a few thousand on the clock (unless something fails). I figure its likely most curable faults have already been fixed and I need to adjust to my bike. Plus I don't mind not blowing loadsa money on changing something which after a few more rides I won't notice anymore.

Still each to their own and a lot does depend on the actual bike. Mine has been modified and well looked after, plus I am in touch with the previous owner so that makes a difference too.

[CarloL]

Originally Posted by utopia

Generally speaking, all Ducatis are said to be a little "clunky at low revs".
Its true to a certain extent, but while it bothers some folk, others accept it as a necessary feature of the kind of motor they prefer.
Its probably also true to say as a generalisation that the bigger the motor and the cruder the fuelling, the more clunky it will be.
So your carby 900 is probably one of the more "clunky".
My carby 750 probably comes fairly close behind, but the smaller "bangs" reduce the effect .. and that's one of the reasons I chose it.

In my opinion, and from experience of my 750, a Ducati needs a good clutch and you need to use it, particularly for slow turns at road junctions etc.
My technique is to throttle off as I slow into the turn but if the turn is slow enough to be getting into "clunky" territory, I never open the throttle again without first momentarily dipping the clutch, for just an instant, and then immediately taking up the drive via throttle and clutch combined. .. if that makes any sense.
This significantly reduces the chain snatch and clunkiness.

I reckon you do need a silky clutch though.
Your bike has a dry clutch and I notice that it still has the std closed cover.
That's fine, but I wonder if there is a bit of a build up of dust in there, causing a less than silky operation.
Just a thought.

Other things which can exacerbate the clunky tendency are badly adjusted or imbalanced carbs, badly adjusted or worn chain and even poorly positioned controls.

But I wouldn't rush to do anything to the bike because you'll get to know its character and how best to deal with it much better after a few more miles, and you might find that the problem goes away.

Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for! I am only on a bike(learning to ride) a couple of weeks , just trying to gauge if it is my inability :P I was under the impression carbs and dry clutch might be a factor

I have removed the cover for an open clutch cover for an open cover, the slave cylinder was leaking , the seal was replaced, I have ordered a braided clutch line might help a little with feel/control ; I find starting out I can get the sweet spot at low revs, clutch biting point is consistent ; not too sure if it is me over concentrating trying to be as precise as possible but after a 40 KM I find the clunkiness returns , gets a bit frustrating as what I was doing is not netting the same results as before

Bit more practice

is to throttle off as I slow into the turn but if the turn is slow enough to be getting into "clunky" territory, I never open the throttle again without first momentarily dipping the clutch, for just an instant, and then immediately taking up the drive via throttle and clutch combined

I was messing with this technique last nite! Was not too sure if it was a best practice technique or something I was doing in ignorance to get her around the corner

In terms of carbs , she seems to get a bit disgruntled, after 40KM of start/stop traffic ; bike can get hesitant , she is not too sure if you want to pin it ; I presume the carbs are over fueling with all the stop/start action; maybe a technique for a carbed bike in traffic or just a characteristic?

thanks again for the detailed response

[Flip]

Personally I try not to slip the 900's dry clutch too much- it is a bit of a 'light switch' being either engaged or not but the hotter you get them by slipping the grabbier they get.

You soon get used to the technique though and my '97 bike is still on the original clutch at 30,000 miles although it is rather noisy as the basket is getting worn some.

As far as the popping about in traffic and such it could simply be it wanting to clear itself as it gets a bit hot or maybe a little air leak on the inlet rubbers or like mine did a few times before I renewed all the fuel hoses and the Vacuum tap and pump last year, the start of it going to vapour lock where it starves itself of fuel when it gets too hot.

[CarloL]

Thanks Flip , heat makes sense; its fine up to a certain point, then its characteristic of engagement changes (grabbier)

Will try and adjust my technique to try and slip it less , similar to the triple plate clutch I had in the car

Alot of my driving is slow speed start stop rarely going above 1st, 2nd gear

[Flip]

Originally Posted by CarloL

Thanks Flip , heat makes sense; its fine up to a certain point, then its characteristic of engagement changes (grabbier)

Will try and adjust my technique to try and slip it less , similar to the triple plate clutch I had in the car

Alot of my driving is slow speed start stop rarely going above 1st, 2nd gear

I'm sure you'll get there with it but stop, start, 1st and 2nd gear riding is not happy territory for a dry clutch carby 900.

[CarloL]

Originally Posted by Flip

I'm sure you'll get there with it but stop, start, 1st and 2nd gear riding is not happy territory for a dry clutch carby 900.

Duly noted , will need to change my driving routes

[Darren69]

They do get hot and can overheat in stop/start riding which makes them grabby and unpleasant. Also it's worth putting in neutral when stopped which will help with heat and wear reduction. Holding it on the clutch in gear will make it build heat and wear the friction plates.

[CarloL]

Trying to select Neutral is a PITA lol , generally miss it 2-3 times back and forth to get it

[Flip]

Originally Posted by CarloL

Trying to select Neutral is a PITA lol , generally miss it 2-3 times back and forth to get it

They can be a little awkward which isn't helped by the standard footrest/gear change linkage to be honest (rear sets make it much more direct and positive) but snicking it into neutral from second just before you come to a halt should make it easier for you.

[Mr Gazza]

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this further back, as I haven't read the read thoroughly, but.

Chain adjustment and condition is a big influence on gear selection smoothness.

Have a look at the sticker on the swinging arm and set the chain as close to 30mm freeplay as you can. revolve the wheel to find the tightest point in the chain and check the measurements there.
I use a steel tape from underneath and hook the tab on the top of the chain and then push it upwards with the chain. hold or lock the tape and let the chain go. The bottom of the chain should come down nicely to 30mm. I actually find it sweeter at 28mm at the tightest point, but go by the book to 30mm.

A worn or dry chain will effect the gears, as will hooked sprockets.

[Flip]

Good call on chain adjustment Mr G!

Bikes generally benefit from such things but Ducati's and older ones in particular, really do prefer to be 'just so' don't they?