Hello - new member and owner. - Page 2

Darkness · 09-08-2021, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Well you've trumped me there with 17 year olds..

Thanks for sharing that..

I think the oldest I have come across were about 25 years old or more which I had to cut off a 3TA with an angle grinder.!

If they were Avon Skidmasters they’d still have been like new: awful!

09-08-2021, 06:16 PM

That is old!

Another question - the rebound on the rear shocker is rather slow. Are these shocks supposed to be re-gassed? I can see some kind of valve at the top of the unit? Or has it had it?

Many thanks.

slob · 09-08-2021, 07:05 PM

Don't know about re-gassing/overhauling but there should be a rebound adjustment screw at the bottom.

Darren69 · 09-08-2021, 09:18 PM

The 600 Dark is the most basic bike and had the cheapest low spec suspension. It's probably not worth spending a load of money on refurbishing what you have, if it's not up to it. I would say it's better to buy a a better spec unit like a Showa shock from one of the better spec models. It's probably not worth spending a fortune on the bike anyway as I would bet if you like the riding experience then you would want a 900 or something better in a year or so anyway?

10-08-2021, 09:52 PM

So - I need a bit more help...

Busy day today. All fluids changed (oil, clutch and brakes), rear pads fitted, new filters, carbs cleaned. Wiring fault found and fixed so the brake light comes on for front brake. Engine fired with a bit of help and ran briefly.

The help I need is with the rev counter. When I turn on the ignition after a few moments the rev counter starts to move (engine not running). Over some time it eventually goes past the oil light and then stops. Turn ignition off and it returns to normal position. It does this every time and when the engine was running it didn't register, just kept on moving slowly round. Any input gratefully received.

Many thanks.

11-08-2021, 07:30 PM

Hello. Been trying to work out the rev counter issue. I can't find any wiring problems. The internet says the rev counter gets a signal from the coils - but it still slowly moves the needle even if the coils are disconnected. Perhaps the unit itself is faulty...?

Got the new belts fitted today and the fork seals. Just need new tires which should tomorrow.

Found a new way to use my car lift in order to get the front of the bike high enough to slide the fork legs out.

14-08-2021, 01:25 PM

Quick update - good news, she passed the MOT this morning. So getting some miles done to shake out any lingering issues. Tick over seems a bit erratic - fast when hot, normal when not. And still got the rev counter problem, but otherwise seems good. Thanks for all the help.

walkingpictures · 14-08-2021, 01:37 PM

Always good to get the MOT sorted.As for the rev counter problem I have no idea but hopefully some of the guys on here can help.

Good luck!!

Kimbo

spuggy · 14-08-2021, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by corneg1

The help I need is with the rev counter. When I turn on the ignition after a few moments the rev counter starts to move (engine not running). Over some time it eventually goes past the oil light and then stops.

If it's like my 2000-2001 900s (which I expect it is), everything is electronic except the speedo. So it's got a stepper motor inside.

If it's properly connected (eg via the big multi-plug - try cleaning it/checking for correct signals etc), then it's probably defective in some way. Repair or replace. A known working unit would be useful; to swap in to isolate the problem.

They're pretty spendy new - but still available. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1462941301. Think I'd want to establish what the problem was first.

Similar-era 900SS and STx ones will likely fit/work, but the face won't match. It's often easier to find a complete console for one of these than the 2000-2002 Monsters eg:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164131962...IAAOSwiYledBMz
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224540163...0AAOSw9otg9YG8

There's a lot of used parts on Flea Bay, but Monster stuff from your specific timeframe is often thin on the ground in comparison to earlier or later.

hh93 · 14-08-2021, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spuggy

If it's like my 2000-2001 900s (which I expect it is), everything is electronic except the speedo. So it's got a stepper motor inside.

Here's a pic from another board of the stripped down clocks. It's all one circuit board by the looks:

Also, on there it said once the needles are removed they are a bugger to set back up correctly.

spuggy · 14-08-2021, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hh93

Here's a pic from another board of the stripped down clocks. It's all one circuit board by the looks:

That's the later clocks, with the LCD odo, maybe the menus and all that stuff.

2000-2001 900ie and 2001 S4 have a mech speedo, which comes out of the binnacle in one piece.

The tach is separate too (see page 78 in the 2000 EU 900 Monster parts list, or search Steine Dinse for 40240111B - SD don't have a 2001 600 and the 2000 600 has the single clock so I reckon it'll be the same part). But good luck fixing one with a screwdriver and a hammer, because it'll be entirely electronic inside. But it can at least be replaced individually.

Here's a picture of a 40240111B: https://www.corsasbk.com/product/40240111b/

Few years ago, ebay seller valtermotousa had a bunch of NOS speedos and tachos for 2000-2001 Monsters they were selling for $100 US or so (snagged one myself to fix the trip on my Sie/get a Euro dial), but they seem to be out now, and only have ST2/900SS items left https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164131962...IAAOSwiYledBMz

Nickj · 14-08-2021, 09:57 PM

Nice little bike

You'll want to sort the rear damper, the little motor will make you work but the chassis will manage more than you can throw at it and still be composed.

Years ago I did swap the stepper from an accident smashed clock set into mine where the rev stepper had failed. Bit fiddly but do able. And yes, sticking the needles back on is a real PIA.
The old one looked like one of the tracks had just worn out which isn't fixable.
I did have a part number for the stepper but had some trouble finding a source for a single unit

Darren69 · 14-08-2021, 10:03 PM

Valter Moto have this one:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362914441...kAAOSwu-BWPTaX

I don't know if thats the right one?

14-08-2021, 10:36 PM

Thanks for the info chaps. the pic the Spuggy gave the link to is the correct one. Perhaps I will take mine apart first to see what's inside - but I guess its non repairable.

Yes Nickj - the bike handles very nicely. I am used to vibrations from my old BSA but I have been a little surprised with how this bike runs - but I am warming to her with more miles.

Thanks for all the input - much appreciated.

09-08-2021, 09:18 PM	#19
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,095	The 600 Dark is the most basic bike and had the cheapest low spec suspension. It's probably not worth spending a load of money on refurbishing what you have, if it's not up to it. I would say it's better to buy a a better spec unit like a Showa shock from one of the better spec models. It's probably not worth spending a fortune on the bike anyway as I would bet if you like the riding experience then you would want a 900 or something better in a year or so anyway? __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

14-08-2021, 09:57 PM	#27
Nickj Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Forest Of Dean Bike: S2r Posts: 3,208	Nice little bike You'll want to sort the rear damper, the little motor will make you work but the chassis will manage more than you can throw at it and still be composed. Years ago I did swap the stepper from an accident smashed clock set into mine where the rev stepper had failed. Bit fiddly but do able. And yes, sticking the needles back on is a real PIA. The old one looked like one of the tracks had just worn out which isn't fixable. I did have a part number for the stepper but had some trouble finding a source for a single unit __________________ "The final measure of any rider's skill is the inverse ratio of his preferred Traveling Speed to the number of bad scars on his body." Song of the sausage creature

14-08-2021, 10:03 PM	#28
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,095	Valter Moto have this one:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362914441...kAAOSwu-BWPTaX I don't know if thats the right one? __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

09-08-2021, 06:16 PM	#17
corneg1 Guest Posts: n/a	That is old! Another question - the rebound on the rear shocker is rather slow. Are these shocks supposed to be re-gassed? I can see some kind of valve at the top of the unit? Or has it had it? Many thanks.

09-08-2021, 07:05 PM	#18
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,738	Don't know about re-gassing/overhauling but there should be a rebound adjustment screw at the bottom.

10-08-2021, 09:52 PM	#20
corneg1 Guest Posts: n/a	So - I need a bit more help... Busy day today. All fluids changed (oil, clutch and brakes), rear pads fitted, new filters, carbs cleaned. Wiring fault found and fixed so the brake light comes on for front brake. Engine fired with a bit of help and ran briefly. The help I need is with the rev counter. When I turn on the ignition after a few moments the rev counter starts to move (engine not running). Over some time it eventually goes past the oil light and then stops. Turn ignition off and it returns to normal position. It does this every time and when the engine was running it didn't register, just kept on moving slowly round. Any input gratefully received. Many thanks.

11-08-2021, 07:30 PM	#21
corneg1 Guest Posts: n/a	Hello. Been trying to work out the rev counter issue. I can't find any wiring problems. The internet says the rev counter gets a signal from the coils - but it still slowly moves the needle even if the coils are disconnected. Perhaps the unit itself is faulty...? Got the new belts fitted today and the fork seals. Just need new tires which should tomorrow. Found a new way to use my car lift in order to get the front of the bike high enough to slide the fork legs out.

14-08-2021, 01:25 PM	#22
corneg1 Guest Posts: n/a	Quick update - good news, she passed the MOT this morning. So getting some miles done to shake out any lingering issues. Tick over seems a bit erratic - fast when hot, normal when not. And still got the rev counter problem, but otherwise seems good. Thanks for all the help.

14-08-2021, 01:37 PM	#23
walkingpictures preneolithic frebie Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Cambridge Bike: S4Rs Posts: 329	Always good to get the MOT sorted.As for the rev counter problem I have no idea but hopefully some of the guys on here can help. Good luck!! Kimbo

14-08-2021, 10:36 PM	#29
corneg1 Guest Posts: n/a	Thanks for the info chaps. the pic the Spuggy gave the link to is the correct one. Perhaps I will take mine apart first to see what's inside - but I guess its non repairable. Yes Nickj - the bike handles very nicely. I am used to vibrations from my old BSA but I have been a little surprised with how this bike runs - but I am warming to her with more miles. Thanks for all the input - much appreciated.