Hex/Allen head driver - what do you use? - Page 2

Darren69 · 26-02-2020, 07:58 PM

These are the type I was thinking of

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283747236534

Not cheap mind you.

Ron1000 · 26-02-2020, 08:50 PM

As 350tss says grinding paste or even filings help pack them out.

I use wera Allen and torx ’L-Shaped’ tools they are superb quality. I also have allen and torx socket style ones. All of which seem to work well for me.

Note tho Allen heads are the absolute worst type of bolt for ‘stretching’ off. Apparently it’s just what they do.

350TSS · 26-02-2020, 08:56 PM

Also one with a conical burner so you can get the point of the cone on the head of the bolt/stud, a lot come with a wide mouthed burner - great for burning paint off woodwork but takes a looong time to heat the bolt/ stud

Flip · 26-02-2020, 09:06 PM

I guess everyone who has done a bit of work on various machinery has their own preferred methods when it comes to shifting stubborn fixings and at the end of the day it is whatever works with the tools to hand.

Personally, I am a big fan of socket type hex (Allen) drivers as the hex itself tends to be a better fit (unless you have some really good quality T-bars or Allen keys) which in my experience is the most important thing, plus you can then choose a breaker bar of appropriate length to loosen it.

If I still have problems then my first port of call is a good old fashioned Impact Driver which you can give a thump with a hammer and by taking the Hex adaptor off reveals a 1/2'' square drive to pop an impact socket on.

I did buy this jobbie (about £40 off eBay) a while back when I changed my clutch but with an un-adjustable claimed torque of 450Nm it's not very subtle and I wouldn't use it on anything less than M10 (17mm hex head) or for doing anything up with.

I prefer Aluminium bolts for casings and non-safety critical applications and am not keen on Stainless bolts into aluminium engine casings as they are quite brittle and so once corroded (lets face it- how often does anyone remove them to clean or re-grease between needing to?) if/when one does break, I know which material I would rather be having to drill out.

Again with using copper grease, there is a school of thought that it can actually make things worse when using two different metals through galvanic corrosion but I am not an expert on such things by any means.

damien666 · 26-02-2020, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darren69

These are the type I was thinking of

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283747236534

Not cheap mind you.

They look spot on.
Must resist !!

MotoNik · 27-02-2020, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by damien666

I’ve got the hex and torx versions of these. Very good quality
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BONDHUS-H...-/164088526378

And snap-on for the 3/8 socket hex and torx, because they are a good fit.
( I’m not a snap-on whore. Just like stuff that fits and works).

Funnily enough, I've had those on my ebay watch list for about the last three years!

mickj · 27-02-2020, 10:47 AM

Take a look at this, it might save you a bit of time/money.
https://youtu.be/y65nItqVlAA

Darren69 · 27-02-2020, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MotoNik

Funnily enough, I've had those on my ebay watch list for about the last three years!

I noticed there were some Seeley sets on there at half proce too about £12.00

damien666 · 27-02-2020, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjgt

Take a look at this, it might save you a bit of time/money.
https://youtu.be/y65nItqVlAA

Good video. Top tip

Flip · 28-02-2020, 01:33 AM

These look like they could be worth adding to the tool box arsenal for stubborn hex head screw removal:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F142315159164

iainw · 29-02-2020, 05:21 PM

The main causes of chewing hex heads is a poor fit with the tool, not all hex keys are created equal, I have a set of Wera hex plus and they are really good for those tight screws.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zi-i1bRWzFI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRZjNYGHeRQ

But if you have something that is rusted up and seized solid then you'll need to go for the more brutal methods of penetrating fluids, shocking, and heat.

damien666 · 29-02-2020, 07:21 PM

These are brilliant. I used one last week on a rusty hilux suspension bolt. Very quick and no flame.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-1000...-/202876432088

Flip · 01-03-2020, 11:21 AM

If it does get to the point of having drill out bolts these can sometimes work in loosening them off as you drill.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F232570119279

350TSS · 01-03-2020, 07:04 PM

Do you need to reverse the drill to use the above?

Flip · 01-03-2020, 08:47 PM

Yes that's right, you reverse the drill when using them so from my experience it makes them ideal when drilling out a screw from a blind hole in the hope it might start it un-screwing. In the same way a normal (clockwise) drill bit stands a chance of 'pushing it through' an open hole as you drill it out.

Of course you can still try an 'easy out' style screw extractor if it hasn't shifted the broken screw or simply keep going up in size until it is clear and you can repair the thread another way.

26-02-2020, 07:58 PM	#16
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,091	These are the type I was thinking of https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283747236534 Not cheap mind you. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

26-02-2020, 09:06 PM	#19
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	I guess everyone who has done a bit of work on various machinery has their own preferred methods when it comes to shifting stubborn fixings and at the end of the day it is whatever works with the tools to hand. Personally, I am a big fan of socket type hex (Allen) drivers as the hex itself tends to be a better fit (unless you have some really good quality T-bars or Allen keys) which in my experience is the most important thing, plus you can then choose a breaker bar of appropriate length to loosen it. If I still have problems then my first port of call is a good old fashioned Impact Driver which you can give a thump with a hammer and by taking the Hex adaptor off reveals a 1/2'' square drive to pop an impact socket on. I did buy this jobbie (about £40 off eBay) a while back when I changed my clutch but with an un-adjustable claimed torque of 450Nm it's not very subtle and I wouldn't use it on anything less than M10 (17mm hex head) or for doing anything up with. I prefer Aluminium bolts for casings and non-safety critical applications and am not keen on Stainless bolts into aluminium engine casings as they are quite brittle and so once corroded (lets face it- how often does anyone remove them to clean or re-grease between needing to?) if/when one does break, I know which material I would rather be having to drill out. Again with using copper grease, there is a school of thought that it can actually make things worse when using two different metals through galvanic corrosion but I am not an expert on such things by any means. __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you! Last edited by Flip; 26-02-2020 at 09:16 PM..

27-02-2020, 10:47 AM	#22
mickj Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Clevedon Bike: M1200s Posts: 565	Take a look at this, it might save you a bit of time/money. https://youtu.be/y65nItqVlAA __________________ Keep the rubber side down. Mick

28-02-2020, 01:33 AM	#25
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	These look like they could be worth adding to the tool box arsenal for stubborn hex head screw removal: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F142315159164 __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you!

01-03-2020, 11:21 AM	#28
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	If it does get to the point of having drill out bolts these can sometimes work in loosening them off as you drill. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F232570119279 __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you!

26-02-2020, 08:50 PM	#17
Ron1000 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Livingston Bike: M1100evo Posts: 867	As 350tss says grinding paste or even filings help pack them out. I use wera Allen and torx ’L-Shaped’ tools they are superb quality. I also have allen and torx socket style ones. All of which seem to work well for me. Note tho Allen heads are the absolute worst type of bolt for ‘stretching’ off. Apparently it’s just what they do.

26-02-2020, 08:56 PM	#18
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	Also one with a conical burner so you can get the point of the cone on the head of the bolt/stud, a lot come with a wide mouthed burner - great for burning paint off woodwork but takes a looong time to heat the bolt/ stud

29-02-2020, 05:21 PM	#26
iainw Registered User Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Preston Bike: S4r Posts: 61	The main causes of chewing hex heads is a poor fit with the tool, not all hex keys are created equal, I have a set of Wera hex plus and they are really good for those tight screws. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zi-i1bRWzFI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRZjNYGHeRQ But if you have something that is rusted up and seized solid then you'll need to go for the more brutal methods of penetrating fluids, shocking, and heat.

29-02-2020, 07:21 PM	#27
damien666 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Leeds, West-Yorks Bike: S4Rs Posts: 497	These are brilliant. I used one last week on a rusty hilux suspension bolt. Very quick and no flame. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-1000...-/202876432088

01-03-2020, 07:04 PM	#29
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	Do you need to reverse the drill to use the above?

01-03-2020, 08:47 PM	#30
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	Yes that's right, you reverse the drill when using them so from my experience it makes them ideal when drilling out a screw from a blind hole in the hope it might start it un-screwing. In the same way a normal (clockwise) drill bit stands a chance of 'pushing it through' an open hole as you drill it out. Of course you can still try an 'easy out' style screw extractor if it hasn't shifted the broken screw or simply keep going up in size until it is clear and you can repair the thread another way. __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you!