New member in Lincolnshire

[makemdan]

EVOs rule....... well after you sort out the flaws. Loads of great advice on here, half way through my bike's transformation, Rexxer, forks and shock in the new year. I did the 14 tooth front sprocket change which helped but as my chain was then at the max adjustment I've gone down the route of standard front and 42 rear. If you want to try the 14 tooth front you can have mine for a fiver Inc postage. It's done about 20 miles. I'll be taking it off next month.

[Luddite]

+1 for makemdan's gearing suggestion. There are lots of posts/threads on the forum debating the pros and cons of smaller front versus larger rear sprocket. I've got the 14 tooth front but will try 15/42 when I need to replace my chain.

One thing to watch with the larger rear sprocket is setting chain tension. With the Evo, (and, I think, all the single-sided swinging arm models), the suggested 61mm - 63mm is not the amount of up-and-down chain movement, it is the clearance between the chain run and the underside of the swinging arm.

Consequently, a larger rear sprocket will have the effect of moving the chain further from the swinging arm so, if you use the original 61mm - 63mm gap, the chain will be overtight so bear that in mind when tensioning. I don't know what the relative diameters of the 39 and 42 tooth sprockets are so I can't work out what the new clearance should be but I'd think another 5mm or so?

The best way to determine the new correct clearance, (and something you can do, Ian, if you're changing your shock), is, with the shock removed, pull the swinging arm up until the front and rear sprockets and swinging arm pivot are all in line. (It's at this point that the chain will be at its tightest.) If you set the chain tension in this position, then at any other point in the swinging arm's travel, the chain will be slacker.

Then, with the bike back together and on the side stand, you can measure the new clearance and use that as your reference for future chain adjustment.

If you do that, Ian, do let us know what the figure is, as it'll be useful for anyone else running the 15/42 combination.

[Omar]

Originally Posted by makemdan

EVOs rule....... well after you sort out the flaws. Loads of great advice on here, half way through my bike's transformation, Rexxer, forks and shock in the new year. I did the 14 tooth front sprocket change which helped but as my chain was then at the max adjustment I've gone down the route of standard front and 42 rear. If you want to try the 14 tooth front you can have mine for a fiver Inc postage. It's done about 20 miles. I'll be taking it off next month.

Thanks for that Makemdan. Yes loads of good information on here. I will take you up on that 14 tooth purchase. PM me when you want to sell. I will be also going the same route as you, Rexxer, shock and then forks in that order. For the suspension, Maxton is favourite at the moment although this time of the year I am in no rush.

[Omar]

Originally Posted by Luddite

+1 for makemdan's gearing suggestion. There are lots of posts/threads on the forum debating the pros and cons of smaller front versus larger rear sprocket. I've got the 14 tooth front but will try 15/42 when I need to replace my chain.

One thing to watch with the larger rear sprocket is setting chain tension. With the Evo, (and, I think, all the single-sided swinging arm models), the suggested 61mm - 63mm is not the amount of up-and-down chain movement, it is the clearance between the chain run and the underside of the swinging arm.

Consequently, a larger rear sprocket will have the effect of moving the chain further from the swinging arm so, if you use the original 61mm - 63mm gap, the chain will be overtight so bear that in mind when tensioning. I don't know what the relative diameters of the 39 and 42 tooth sprockets are so I can't work out what the new clearance should be but I'd think another 5mm or so?

The best way to determine the new correct clearance, (and something you can do, Ian, if you're changing your shock), is, with the shock removed, pull the swinging arm up until the front and rear sprockets and swinging arm pivot are all in line. (It's at this point that the chain will be at its tightest.) If you set the chain tension in this position, then at any other point in the swinging arm's travel, the chain will be slacker.

Then, with the bike back together and on the side stand, you can measure the new clearance and use that as your reference for future chain adjustment.

If you do that, Ian, do let us know what the figure is, as it'll be useful for anyone else running the 15/42 combination.

Once again thanks for the information Luddite. I need to read more about the gearing options but a 14 front is a good place to start I guess? I will be interested to read which option you prefer.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by Omar

Once again thanks for the information Luddite. I need to read more about the gearing options but a 14 front is a good place to start I guess? I will be interested to read which option you prefer.

If you don't need a new chain yet, go for the 14T front; it's quick cheap and easy to change and you can easily switch back to the 15T if you don't like it.

The 42T rear requires a longer chain (+2 links) so is more work and more expensive.

In theory, the larger rear will give the chain and swinging arm protector, (the nylon slider), an easier time than the smaller front. In the real world, I've done over 10,000 miles on the 14T and only adjusted the chain probably less than half-a-dozen times and there still appears to be plenty of life left in it. I think, unless you're planning on covering 12,000+ miles a year, it's not a consideration.

If you haven't seen it already, all my mods are detailed here http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=55168 pick the ones you want!

[makemdan]

Originally Posted by Luddite

+1 for makemdan's gearing suggestion. There are lots of posts/threads on the forum debating the pros and cons of smaller front versus larger rear sprocket. I've got the 14 tooth front but will try 15/42 when I need to replace my chain.

One thing to watch with the larger rear sprocket is setting chain tension. With the Evo, (and, I think, all the single-sided swinging arm models), the suggested 61mm - 63mm is not the amount of up-and-down chain movement, it is the clearance between the chain run and the underside of the swinging arm.

Consequently, a larger rear sprocket will have the effect of moving the chain further from the swinging arm so, if you use the original 61mm - 63mm gap, the chain will be overtight so bear that in mind when tensioning. I don't know what the relative diameters of the 39 and 42 tooth sprockets are so I can't work out what the new clearance should be but I'd think another 5mm or so?

The best way to determine the new correct clearance, (and something you can do, Ian, if you're changing your shock), is, with the shock removed, pull the swinging arm up until the front and rear sprockets and swinging arm pivot are all in line. (It's at this point that the chain will be at its tightest.) If you set the chain tension in this position, then at any other point in the swinging arm's travel, the chain will be slacker.

Then, with the bike back together and on the side stand, you can measure the new clearance and use that as your reference for future chain adjustment.

If you do that, Ian, do let us know what the figure is, as it'll be useful for anyone else running the 15/42 combination.

Thanks for the heads up on chain clearance, I hadn't really considered that. I'll take the measurements when I replace the shock - Jan/Feb ish probably

[pooh]

Welcome to the club i'm in Waltham if you ever fancy ride out or a natter a natter about most things Monster.

Pooh

[chris.p]

Welcome Omar, as an owner of an 100 Evo and one that has been modded, not to the extent that Luddite's has, but the rexxerr, forks, shock, handlebar mods have all been done, you are more than welcome to pop over to Lincoln and check what the differences these mods make to the Evo once weather and lockdown are sorted :-)

[Omar]

Originally Posted by pooh

Welcome to the club i'm in Waltham if you ever fancy ride out or a natter a natter about most things Monster.

Pooh

Thanks Pooh. I often ride through Waltham on the way out of town. Just need the weather to improve.

[Omar]

Originally Posted by chris.p

Welcome Omar, as an owner of an 100 Evo and one that has been modded, not to the extent that Luddite's has, but the rexxerr, forks, shock, handlebar mods have all been done, you are more than welcome to pop over to Lincoln and check what the differences these mods make to the Evo once weather and lockdown are sorted :-)

Thanks Chris, I would be interested in checking the mods you have done. I am still on a steep learning curve. Learning curve going up. Bank balance curve going down!

[makemdan]

Maybe being simplistic here but wouldn't the new range be the original + the difference between the radii of the 2 sprockets?

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by makemdan

Maybe being simplistic here but wouldn't the new range be the original + the difference between the radii of the 2 sprockets?

Not quite! Don't forget the chain isn't parallel to the swinging arm (nor to an imaginary line drawn between the sprocket centres). It makes a shallow angle by being closer at the gearbox end and farther away at the rear wheel. The chain clearance is measured half-way between the two.

Because you're only changing the rear sprocket, then, yes, the chain link on the very bottom of the new, larger, rear sprocket will be farther from the swinging arm by R2-R1 (where R1 is the radius of the 39T sprocket and R2 the radius of the 42T).

But, by contrast, a chain link at the bottom of the gearbox sprocket will be exactly the same distance from the swinging arm, whichever size rear sprocket you have.



Consequently, if you think of the chain as being the base of a triangle between the gearbox sprocket (A), rear axle (B) and bottom of rear sprocket (C), you've increased the length of side BC and increased the angle between sides AB and AC.

So the clearance difference will be at its maximum (R2-R1) at point C and zero at point A. As you measure the clearance working from C to A, the difference will gradually reduce until it is zero at point A.

As the chain clearance is measured half-way between front and rear sprocket, the increased clearance will also be someway between zero and R2-R1 (but not half-way between!).

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by pooh

Welcome to the club i'm in Waltham if you ever fancy ride out or a natter a natter about most things Monster.

Pooh

My in-laws moved to Waltham about 3years ago!

[pooh]

Grumpy they’ll let anybody in that’s how I got here����

[Omar]

Originally Posted by pooh

Grumpy they’ll let anybody in that’s how I got here����

Its getting back out that is the problem.