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18-05-2021, 12:44 PM | #196 |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Beachtown
Bike: M900
Posts: 2,188
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A couple or three questions on your RR replacement if I may?
Did you manage to use the original mounting points by relocating the horn? Also, why did you add an extra connection point (the gold terminals) rather than run the Alternator wires direct to the RR plug and while you were there did you upgrade the rather undersized wires from the Alternator at the same time?
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18-05-2021, 03:06 PM | #197 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Reading
Bike: M900
Posts: 600
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Quote:
The horn is mounted separately to the offside (UK) and wasnt touched. I used gold connectors which were OTT, but I had them, to give me another disconnection point, strictly you are correct and I could have gone direct to the grey RR plug. Positive from RR is now 50A thin wall PVC muti core new direct to the 30A fuse. As detailed in the What you need inventory. Negative is the same 50A cable to the nearby earth terminal under the battery. See the notes on the wiring diagram for what is redundant, there was only one cable of the original loom I actually cut the rest are just heathrink protected and left. When I do the full resto I will have a good look at the whole loom and incorporate this and anything else into a rebound loom.
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18-05-2021, 03:11 PM | #198 |
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Reading
Bike: M900
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I didnt answer the Alternator wire question. No i didn't upgrade now. But will almost certainly do so when I do the whole strip down.
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Golf-My favourite game. While my wife plays I'm in the workshop. Last edited by PPuxley; 18-05-2021 at 03:14 PM.. |
18-05-2021, 05:56 PM | #199 |
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Reading
Bike: M900
Posts: 600
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Actually, that prompts me to ask. I had a bit of a trawl on the web but couldn't readily find a source for high temp silicone insulated 2 core flex of a suitable rating for rewiring the Alternator
Anyone got a link to something?
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20-05-2021, 06:51 PM | #200 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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I never knew that so, as they say, "You learn something new every day"! |
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22-05-2021, 11:42 AM | #201 |
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Reading
Bike: M900
Posts: 600
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Im having a browse around the web , thinking about an engine stand. Looking for something that I can use for dismantling, working on the motor and building back up again when the time comes.
So it would be nice to have something capable of taking the whole bike with both wheels off the ground. I came across this, which on the face of it looks like it will fulfil all the above criteria, and looks pretty straight forward to fabricate The only thing I would question the experts here, is: are there loading circumstances that would put undue strain on the mounting points. It would be nice not to crack the engine casing!!! Also Im not at home now and cant check, but I cant quite see what the forward mounting points are attached to.
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22-05-2021, 12:04 PM | #202 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,936
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There's nothing to mount to at the front. The forward legs appear to simply screw out to abut the cases and take the overhung weight.
That's one of the better home brewed ones I've seen with that forward support and a nice long base. Probably could do with a couple of bits of tube over the threaded rods though, to tighten down onto?
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22-05-2021, 12:07 PM | #203 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2021
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Bike: M900
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Quote:
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22-05-2021, 12:20 PM | #204 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
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Walking stick ends perhaps?
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22-05-2021, 12:22 PM | #205 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
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this worked okay for me
although I never had the whole bike on it, just lowered the chassis over it once the engine was built. The trick is getting the leg height right, so the wheels are a smidgen off the floor. also used this so the chassis could be rolled about without the engine in Last edited by slob; 22-05-2021 at 12:26 PM.. |
22-05-2021, 12:25 PM | #206 |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Stockbridge
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,984
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Looks like these, with a nut welded into the end of the strut to take it:
https://www.vital-parts.co.uk/for-wo...4aAgxZEALw_wcB Or may have just come with the re-purposed and inverted table legs?
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22-05-2021, 12:52 PM | #207 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Reading
Bike: M900
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Quote:
Thanks Slob- that dummy engine for wheeling around makes sense, too. Did that stand of yours achieve "the wheels just a smidge off the deck"? If it did , knowing the dimension to the mounting hole would save me guessing/working it out - Next time youre in the garage with a measuring tape I feel a couple of days fabbing coming on when I get home!
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22-05-2021, 12:57 PM | #208 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
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What about one of those threaded feet on each corner of the base to give it a bit of adjustability?
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22-05-2021, 01:05 PM | #209 |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Stockbridge
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,984
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Or fully locking castors? How flat is your floor?
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22-05-2021, 01:10 PM | #210 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Reading
Bike: M900
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Quote:
I was thinking that if I made the mounting plates with a pivot bolt (that you could lock) you could attach the stand on the bike resting on the wheels and by winding the threaded cross bars in, raise it into postion off the ground. And now just seen the casters suggestions.......Im onto ebay now ...ordering Bells, Whistles and thinking this should be a whole thread in its own right!!!
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