Project M1000ie DS - Page 11

Nasher · 24-05-2021, 11:32 AM

Hey Mr G.

Yep, the M900 went a few weeks ago.

Although there is no doubt that the M1000 has more BHP and Torque than the M900, the bigger difference for me is how it's delivered, with what feels like a linear toque curve and the civility of the delivery.
It's possibly simply the difference between Carbs and injection, but I'm sure the twin spark and many other internal engine differences contribute.

Nasher.

Nasher · 25-05-2021, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nasher

I’ve changed the High Level DP exhaust cans for low level ones and dropped a K&N air filter in it.
It also arrived with a Dynojet Powercommander III USB, which I wasn’t sure of, but having now ridden the bike I’m more than happy with how the engine behaves, and will connect up to it to see what Dynojet map is loaded.

Nasher.

I downloaded the Dynojet software and plugged into the PC3 USB to see what Map it was loaded with.

The text says it's a map for a completely std bike.
Somebody has been in and made some changes but only at 100% throttle opening over 2250RPM.
So I'm a little surprised that with the mods it felt so nice on my ride, particularly as I'm sure I didn't even have it wide open at any stage.
I've even now pulled one plug from each pot for a quick look and they are a nice colour.

The std Dynojet map:

What's on the bike:

I might upload and flash the Dynojet map to match the mods and see what happens.

The good thing about mucking around with the PC3 of course is there are no changes to the bike ECU, and I can swap back to the map that's on it really easily.

Nasher.

Nasher · 30-05-2021, 09:47 PM

On Friday the planets must have aligned or something and I managed to get out for a good long ride on the bike in the dry.

But before leaving I uploaded the Dynojet 'map' to the PC3 that is meant for aftermarket Exhausts(in the M1000's case DP Remus), Freeflowing airfilter (K&N), and cut open airbox lid.

It did appear to make a bit of a difference, feeling a little more eager right where you need it mid throttle and revs,

Nasher.

Mr Gazza · 31-05-2021, 08:55 AM

She echoes the looks of your 900 remarkably well even though there are only a few shared components. A nice upgrade if ever there was one. I'm very pleased for you..

Nasher · 01-06-2021, 08:46 AM

Thanks Mr G.

I'm really regretting not changing the colour of the wheels now, from the Grey to the 900's light Gold.
But if I can pick up another pair of wheels cheap enough I might get them stripped and powdercoated whilst I'm using the bike as is.

I'm also not keen on the simple tank decals of this age of Monster, but rather than go for the older M900 style I have a pair of White and Red ones from a late model 1100/1200 etc.
I've sprayed the spare tank Black that I sourced from our illustrious leader, and applied the decals and some lacquer.

I'm waiting for the lacquer to fully harden before giving it a rub down and polish as it looks quite bad at the moment, and now want to respray the side panels and seat cover to match in the same BMW metallic Black.

Nasher

Darkness · 01-06-2021, 09:27 AM

Another nice alternative to the standard 2000 Ducati tank transfers are the chromed raised letter, as used on some special editions.

Luddite · 01-06-2021, 04:25 PM

You've done a great job on that Monster, Nasher. You can be rightly pleased and proud. I like the use of the 1100 style decals on the classic tank - makes it stand out while still appearing 'factory'.

I agree with Darkness about the 3D badges. I fitted some from the 1200S to my Evo and I really liked the effect (43511441A or 43511491A). Here are some on a black tank.

Alternatively, there are single line 'Ducati' badges, similar to the old Cromo and Metallic versions that Darkness mentioned, available from the Diavel or Multistrada (43513501A or 43512761A).

Nasher · 14-06-2021, 10:48 AM

The buyer of the DP Remus High Level cans that came off this Monster is only @40miles from me, so Saturday I managed to cram them into my throwover paniers and delivered them in person rather than post them.

So around 80miles in total, of mainly fast single carrigeway A roads on a hot day with loads of traffic about.
Heading home through the traffic back towards the coast I was glad I was on a bike rather than in the car as I reckon it would have taken me an hour longer to get home.

The bike performed really well, the only niggle still to sort out is not going into neutral with the engine running at a standstill. If I stop the engine it goes straight in, and I can slip it in just as I'm coming to a halt OK with the engine still running. I'll whip the Alternator cover off and check the selector mechanism over, but I'm sorry to say I'll probably need to split the cases at some point.

The bike is running at @100deg C, which seems a bit cool on a hot day.
My 1000SS runs at @120deg C, but is of course fully faired.

The good news is that the combination of the standard footrests and ST top yoke/Clip-ons is a really comfortable riding position that really felt like I could be in the saddle all day.
Looks wise they bars don't appear that much higher than the Rizoma Clip-ons I had on my 900, but I couldn't have spent all day on that.

Nasher.

Dukedesmo · 14-06-2021, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nasher

The bike performed really well, the only niggle still to sort out is not going into neutral with the engine running at a standstill. If I stop the engine it goes straight in, and I can slip it in just as I'm coming to a halt OK with the engine still running.

Sounds like a clutch pack that's a little on the thick side to me.

Remove 0.5 - 1mm from the overall thickness and it'll likely be OK.

Nasher · 14-06-2021, 12:08 PM

Thanks DD, that's a good idear.

I've already had a quick go after my last ride, changing some thicker friction plates for more worn ones, but did only take @0.4mm out of the total height.

Having put a friction plate right at the back for a quiet clutch I tend to work off the last Plain plate being between 3.0 and 3.5mm below the height of the centre.
That same strategy on my M900 and 1000SS produced a really good feeling clutch that is silent at tickover in Neutral with just a 'tinkling' when the clutch is pulled in.
I've got a few mm left before the pressure plate bottoms out on the centre, so will try taking a little more out of the total height.

I suppose if that doesn't work I should also try a standard order stack to see if it's my mod that's causing the issue.

Nasher.

slob · 14-06-2021, 12:57 PM

or a couple of hundred miles of aggressive launches to 'adjust' the stack to a fractionally lower height

Dukedesmo · 14-06-2021, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

or a couple of hundred miles of aggressive launches to 'adjust' the stack to a fractionally lower height

Yes that'll work, as it wears it gets easier.

IIRC, Ducati recommend around 38.5mm as the correct thickness? but I find that around 1mm less works better.

Get yourself a few 1.5mm plain plates and swap them for the (standard) 2mm plates to lose 0.5mm per swap.

If you do it right you may even be able to get an extra friction plate into the mix...

Nasher · 14-06-2021, 02:38 PM

Putting the friction plate in the back can really muck up the stack height depending on the depth of the slots in the basket, so the only way to measure it after that is the depth of the plain plate below the outer edge of the centre.

Does anyone know the depth of throw that should be attained by the slave cylinder/pushrod/pressure plate with the clutch lever is pulled in?
I haven't measured mine, but it looks like @2mm.
Hence the reccomended 3.5mm depth previously mentioned so the pressure plate can't 'jump' the centre.

Nasher.

Dukedesmo · 14-06-2021, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nasher

Does anyone know the depth of throw that should be attained by the slave cylinder/pushrod/pressure plate with the clutch lever is pulled in?
I haven't measured mine, but it looks like @2mm.

Just measured my 916, it moves 1.7mm at full actuation - it does however have an 'Evoluzione' aftermarket slave cylinder that makes for an easier pull so may well move less as a consequence?

Can't measure the Monster as the clutch is off due to it's partial state of disassembly...

Nasher · 14-06-2021, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

Just measured my 916, it moves 1.7mm at full actuation - it does however have an 'Evoluzione' aftermarket slave cylinder that makes for an easier pull so may well move less as a consequence?

Can't measure the Monster as the clutch is off due to it's partial state of disassembly...

Thanks DD, that's a good starting point.

I'm not home until late this evening, so will have to have a quick skive whilst working from home tomorrow and measure both the M1000 and 1000SS throws.

Nasher

24-05-2021, 11:32 AM	#151
Nasher Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Portsmouth Bike: M900 Posts: 1,518	Hey Mr G. Yep, the M900 went a few weeks ago. Although there is no doubt that the M1000 has more BHP and Torque than the M900, the bigger difference for me is how it's delivered, with what feels like a linear toque curve and the civility of the delivery. It's possibly simply the difference between Carbs and injection, but I'm sure the twin spark and many other internal engine differences contribute. Nasher. __________________ Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over.

30-05-2021, 09:47 PM	#153
Nasher Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Portsmouth Bike: M900 Posts: 1,518	On Friday the planets must have aligned or something and I managed to get out for a good long ride on the bike in the dry. But before leaving I uploaded the Dynojet 'map' to the PC3 that is meant for aftermarket Exhausts(in the M1000's case DP Remus), Freeflowing airfilter (K&N), and cut open airbox lid. It did appear to make a bit of a difference, feeling a little more eager right where you need it mid throttle and revs, Nasher. __________________ Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over.

31-05-2021, 08:55 AM	#154
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,979	She echoes the looks of your 900 remarkably well even though there are only a few shared components. A nice upgrade if ever there was one. I'm very pleased for you.. __________________

01-06-2021, 08:46 AM	#155
Nasher Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Portsmouth Bike: M900 Posts: 1,518	Thanks Mr G. I'm really regretting not changing the colour of the wheels now, from the Grey to the 900's light Gold. But if I can pick up another pair of wheels cheap enough I might get them stripped and powdercoated whilst I'm using the bike as is. I'm also not keen on the simple tank decals of this age of Monster, but rather than go for the older M900 style I have a pair of White and Red ones from a late model 1100/1200 etc. I've sprayed the spare tank Black that I sourced from our illustrious leader, and applied the decals and some lacquer. I'm waiting for the lacquer to fully harden before giving it a rub down and polish as it looks quite bad at the moment, and now want to respray the side panels and seat cover to match in the same BMW metallic Black. Nasher __________________ Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over.

01-06-2021, 09:27 AM	#156
Darkness . Join Date: May 2007 Location: Stockbridge Bike: M900 Posts: 1,984	Another nice alternative to the standard 2000 Ducati tank transfers are the chromed raised letter, as used on some special editions. __________________ Original and Best since 1993

01-06-2021, 04:25 PM	#157
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	You've done a great job on that Monster, Nasher. You can be rightly pleased and proud. I like the use of the 1100 style decals on the classic tank - makes it stand out while still appearing 'factory'. I agree with Darkness about the 3D badges. I fitted some from the 1200S to my Evo and I really liked the effect (43511441A or 43511491A). Here are some on a black tank. Alternatively, there are single line 'Ducati' badges, similar to the old Cromo and Metallic versions that Darkness mentioned, available from the Diavel or Multistrada (43513501A or 43512761A).

14-06-2021, 10:48 AM	#158
Nasher Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Portsmouth Bike: M900 Posts: 1,518	The buyer of the DP Remus High Level cans that came off this Monster is only @40miles from me, so Saturday I managed to cram them into my throwover paniers and delivered them in person rather than post them. So around 80miles in total, of mainly fast single carrigeway A roads on a hot day with loads of traffic about. Heading home through the traffic back towards the coast I was glad I was on a bike rather than in the car as I reckon it would have taken me an hour longer to get home. The bike performed really well, the only niggle still to sort out is not going into neutral with the engine running at a standstill. If I stop the engine it goes straight in, and I can slip it in just as I'm coming to a halt OK with the engine still running. I'll whip the Alternator cover off and check the selector mechanism over, but I'm sorry to say I'll probably need to split the cases at some point. The bike is running at @100deg C, which seems a bit cool on a hot day. My 1000SS runs at @120deg C, but is of course fully faired. The good news is that the combination of the standard footrests and ST top yoke/Clip-ons is a really comfortable riding position that really felt like I could be in the saddle all day. Looks wise they bars don't appear that much higher than the Rizoma Clip-ons I had on my 900, but I couldn't have spent all day on that. Nasher. __________________ Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over.

14-06-2021, 12:08 PM	#160
Nasher Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Portsmouth Bike: M900 Posts: 1,518	Thanks DD, that's a good idear. I've already had a quick go after my last ride, changing some thicker friction plates for more worn ones, but did only take @0.4mm out of the total height. Having put a friction plate right at the back for a quiet clutch I tend to work off the last Plain plate being between 3.0 and 3.5mm below the height of the centre. That same strategy on my M900 and 1000SS produced a really good feeling clutch that is silent at tickover in Neutral with just a 'tinkling' when the clutch is pulled in. I've got a few mm left before the pressure plate bottoms out on the centre, so will try taking a little more out of the total height. I suppose if that doesn't work I should also try a standard order stack to see if it's my mod that's causing the issue. Nasher. __________________ Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over.

14-06-2021, 12:57 PM	#161
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,736	or a couple of hundred miles of aggressive launches to 'adjust' the stack to a fractionally lower height

14-06-2021, 02:38 PM	#163
Nasher Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Portsmouth Bike: M900 Posts: 1,518	Putting the friction plate in the back can really muck up the stack height depending on the depth of the slots in the basket, so the only way to measure it after that is the depth of the plain plate below the outer edge of the centre. Does anyone know the depth of throw that should be attained by the slave cylinder/pushrod/pressure plate with the clutch lever is pulled in? I haven't measured mine, but it looks like @2mm. Hence the reccomended 3.5mm depth previously mentioned so the pressure plate can't 'jump' the centre. Nasher. __________________ Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over.