M1000 track bike - Page 10

07-07-2013, 06:48 AM

Love it

BTW, my BSA motor is un-painted, the bike is used in all weathers and some light green laning. And they have stood up more than well to the elements.

ACF-50 should see you ok on a bare motor. It'll look like death when it gets dirty but will clean up fine if / when you decided to degrease it.

07-07-2013, 12:00 PM

That's a lot of thread showing for the nut end - tell me the studs aren't upside down?

slob · 07-07-2013, 02:17 PM

The studs aren't upside down.

08-07-2013, 10:04 AM

Ok thanks - I didn't think they would be

- so it must be an optical illusion looking at your previous pic of the new studs and the appearance of the threaded length each end.

Funkatronic · 08-07-2013, 06:01 PM

wow zhango

are you studying the pics with a magnifying glass?

08-07-2013, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Funkatronic

wow zhango

are you studying the pics with a magnifying glass?

Just Specsavers reading glasses!

I assumed that the long threaded end went into crankcase and the short threaded end was the nut end. The pic doesn't look like that to me so I asked?

Slob confirmed that it was right so it must be.

I intend keeping my M1000 so may have to rebuild the engine one day - this thread interests me as I may learn something not in the manual.

slob · 08-07-2013, 11:12 PM

Other way up, the shorter thread goes into the case.

09-07-2013, 01:20 AM

Thanks - nothing wrong with Specsavers glasses then! I did google fitting instructions for APE studs but could only find:

"Most 10mm cylinder head stud installation
1. Long threaded end must be installed in case - see Tech page for exceptions"

I couldn't find the page for exceptions so assumed long thread in case - I do believe you though!

slob · 21-07-2013, 07:48 PM

It's been a while since I updated this, the week before last I made a bunch of simple tools to help setup the cam timing.

1. I brazed up a dial guage clamp that fits the rocker cover screws to check valve lift.
2. A pair of cut down bolts to lock the cams in place while making adjustments.
3. Since I've decided to risk junking the belt covers I've lost some of the cam timing marks, so I made some little plates to provide temporary marks during setup.
4. A simple pointer to use while degreeing the cams.
5. A piston stop made from a filed down nut and bolt, to assist with accurately determining TDC.
6. An angled foot for a dial guage, so it clears the rocker and will sit on the closing shim.

I bought a torque adaptor from GB motorcycle products since a regular socket won't get to the cylinder head nuts.

You can download an iPhone or Android app to simplify the required calculation from Norbar.

Sadly I put my back out last weekend so no real progress was made until yesterday.

At this point I had to take the engine off the stands and onto some wooden blocks, as the tool I have for locking the alternator/crank uses the same bolt holes. Whilst manhandling the engine back onto the stands after torquing up the alternator and primary drive gear, disaster struck. I slipped and guess was lucky to stop the engine just before it went off the side of the bench.

Only cosmetic but to say I'm pissed of with myself right now is a serious understatement!
Moral of the story: get someone to help with the heavy lifting whenever possible. At least I'd slung the old covers back on otherwise the damage could have
been far worse.

Pistons are assembled and started into the barrels, It's far easier to slip the gudgeon pin into the conrod than to get the rings into the barrel once it's offered up to the cases.

Ergal timing belt rollers (left) shave another 388g off the rotating mass.

I followed Chris Kelley's excellent article on setup to determine TDC and dial the cams in, setting inlet open to 1mm at 34 degrees BTDC as specified in the data sheet that came with them.

Before checking squish and valve clearance.

The orange wax is 1.9mm, yellow 1.3mm and green 1mm.

1mm of squish and no marks on the valves is a relief as 1000DS base gaskets only come in 0.4mm and I wasn't looking forward to waiting to get custom
thickness ones laser cut.

I used a free iPhone app called 'ProTuner Lite' to set belt tension and double checked them using the 'allen key method'.

Now it's really starting to look like an engine again.

Dukedesmo · 21-07-2013, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

I bought a torque adaptor from GB motorcycle products since a regular socket won't get to the cylinder head nuts.

You can download an iPhone or Android app to simplify the required calculation from Norbar.

Great stuff

But if you keep the tool at 90 degrees to the torque wrench you can use the correct torque as the 'leverage' is the same.

slob · 04-08-2013, 10:47 PM

I spent quite a bit of time making several new oil cooler brackets, the first three that all fell short in some small respect. This is #3 ready to braze up.

#4 fits just right with 1098 oil cooler, Torques hoses made up and Evotech guard, as this will be right in the path of debris from the front wheel.

We had a few delivery hassles, all down to the carrier and I can't recommend Gary at Evotech's commitment to customer service highly enough.

J.P · 05-08-2013, 07:56 AM

More tremendous work by you Slob, shame about the broken fin.

And is it just me that giggled at this ?
" It's far easier to slip the gudgeon pin into the conrod than to get the rings into the barrel ".....

gary tompkins · 05-08-2013, 12:51 PM

Have you worked out which vital part Alan nicked 'for a laugh' at the BBQ weekend yet?

slob · 05-08-2013, 01:09 PM

I almost believe that. I discovered yesterday that the o-ring groove for the crank sensor in the Mg generator case is twice as thick as the one in the stock case, yet the o-ring provided is the same and just flops about with no hope of sealing. Another minor delay.

gary tompkins · 05-08-2013, 01:17 PM

Wrong... guess again

Alan said this would be a good game

21-07-2013, 07:48 PM	#144
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,737	It's been a while since I updated this, the week before last I made a bunch of simple tools to help setup the cam timing. 1. I brazed up a dial guage clamp that fits the rocker cover screws to check valve lift. 2. A pair of cut down bolts to lock the cams in place while making adjustments. 3. Since I've decided to risk junking the belt covers I've lost some of the cam timing marks, so I made some little plates to provide temporary marks during setup. 4. A simple pointer to use while degreeing the cams. 5. A piston stop made from a filed down nut and bolt, to assist with accurately determining TDC. 6. An angled foot for a dial guage, so it clears the rocker and will sit on the closing shim. I bought a torque adaptor from GB motorcycle products since a regular socket won't get to the cylinder head nuts. You can download an iPhone or Android app to simplify the required calculation from Norbar. Sadly I put my back out last weekend so no real progress was made until yesterday. At this point I had to take the engine off the stands and onto some wooden blocks, as the tool I have for locking the alternator/crank uses the same bolt holes. Whilst manhandling the engine back onto the stands after torquing up the alternator and primary drive gear, disaster struck. I slipped and guess was lucky to stop the engine just before it went off the side of the bench. Only cosmetic but to say I'm pissed of with myself right now is a serious understatement! Moral of the story: get someone to help with the heavy lifting whenever possible. At least I'd slung the old covers back on otherwise the damage could have been far worse. Pistons are assembled and started into the barrels, It's far easier to slip the gudgeon pin into the conrod than to get the rings into the barrel once it's offered up to the cases. Ergal timing belt rollers (left) shave another 388g off the rotating mass. I followed Chris Kelley's excellent article on setup to determine TDC and dial the cams in, setting inlet open to 1mm at 34 degrees BTDC as specified in the data sheet that came with them. Before checking squish and valve clearance. The orange wax is 1.9mm, yellow 1.3mm and green 1mm. 1mm of squish and no marks on the valves is a relief as 1000DS base gaskets only come in 0.4mm and I wasn't looking forward to waiting to get custom thickness ones laser cut. I used a free iPhone app called 'ProTuner Lite' to set belt tension and double checked them using the 'allen key method'. Now it's really starting to look like an engine again. Last edited by slob; 21-07-2013 at 07:51 PM..

05-08-2013, 07:56 AM	#147
J.P No more Monster... Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: London Bike: Other Not a Ducati Posts: 4,326	More tremendous work by you Slob, shame about the broken fin. And is it just me that giggled at this ? " It's far easier to slip the gudgeon pin into the conrod than to get the rings into the barrel "..... __________________ J.JP ------------------------------- My Mum says, there's no such thing as Monsters.

05-08-2013, 12:51 PM	#148
gary tompkins 1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Dartford, Kent Bike: M900ie Posts: 7,241	Have you worked out which vital part Alan nicked 'for a laugh' at the BBQ weekend yet? __________________ GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong!

05-08-2013, 01:17 PM	#150
gary tompkins 1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Dartford, Kent Bike: M900ie Posts: 7,241	Wrong... guess again Alan said this would be a good game __________________ GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong!

07-07-2013, 06:48 AM	#136
bluestoesonnose Guest Posts: n/a	Love it BTW, my BSA motor is un-painted, the bike is used in all weathers and some light green laning. And they have stood up more than well to the elements. ACF-50 should see you ok on a bare motor. It'll look like death when it gets dirty but will clean up fine if / when you decided to degrease it.

07-07-2013, 12:00 PM	#137
zhango Guest Posts: n/a	That's a lot of thread showing for the nut end - tell me the studs aren't upside down?

07-07-2013, 02:17 PM	#138
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,737	The studs aren't upside down.

08-07-2013, 10:04 AM	#139
zhango Guest Posts: n/a	Ok thanks - I didn't think they would be - so it must be an optical illusion looking at your previous pic of the new studs and the appearance of the threaded length each end.

08-07-2013, 06:01 PM	#140
Funkatronic another year another bike Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: London Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 1,597	wow zhango are you studying the pics with a magnifying glass?

08-07-2013, 11:12 PM	#142
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,737	Other way up, the shorter thread goes into the case.

09-07-2013, 01:20 AM	#143
zhango Guest Posts: n/a	Thanks - nothing wrong with Specsavers glasses then! I did google fitting instructions for APE studs but could only find: "Most 10mm cylinder head stud installation 1. Long threaded end must be installed in case - see Tech page for exceptions" I couldn't find the page for exceptions so assumed long thread in case - I do believe you though!

04-08-2013, 10:47 PM	#146
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,737	I spent quite a bit of time making several new oil cooler brackets, the first three that all fell short in some small respect. This is #3 ready to braze up. #4 fits just right with 1098 oil cooler, Torques hoses made up and Evotech guard, as this will be right in the path of debris from the front wheel. We had a few delivery hassles, all down to the carrier and I can't recommend Gary at Evotech's commitment to customer service highly enough.

05-08-2013, 01:09 PM	#149
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,737	I almost believe that. I discovered yesterday that the o-ring groove for the crank sensor in the Mg generator case is twice as thick as the one in the stock case, yet the o-ring provided is the same and just flops about with no hope of sealing. Another minor delay.