Rolling refresh - gauze screen help!

[yellowfever]

TL/DR:

For S2R1000 (or any 1000DS engined bike I guess) does anyone know:

(1) what tool gets the oil pick up filter gauze out (from feeling with finger it’s some kind of internal socket but with too many sides to be a pure 6 sided Allen socket and it’s also bigger than my biggest 12mm Allen socket). It will need a tool I can also use with my torque wrench when replacing it so I can torque it to correct 42Nm spec. I’ve nothing that fits it currently and don’t want to buy the wrong tool…

(2) torque (and sealant?) to use on (LCD dash) temperature sensor that screws into the pick-up filter cap.

Can’t find anything in workshop manual for either of these questions…

More info below

So having finally sorted the oil leak (by changing the timing shaft seal) I’m finally doing the minor service. I’ll take the opportunity to correct the incorrect oil cooler lines wrongly fitted by a pro mechanic in the past and do the oil line mod to clean up the timing side at the same time, by swapping the oil cooler delivery line for one from a Hypermotard..

I have also had an issue with temperature readings on the dash since the work on the timing shaft oil seal.. Just getting three dashes rather than flashing “lo” on starting and it rarely giving me readings thereafter or just some rather odd ones of low then a temp than a wildly different temp etc. I disturbed the cable to the sensor during the oil leak work, so hopefully it is an easy fix cleaning up and restoring the connection. And luckily in the meantime I knew this temperature sensor is not that important for running as it just feeds the LCD dash display. The ÉCU takes its feed from the front cylinder, so no issues for engine management.

So far I’ve drained the oil, removed the spin on oil filter and removed the oil cooler and lines and drained those too and started cleaning them up. But naturally a few niggles already appear.

Having removed the LCD temperature sensor I see as expected it comes with a copper washer (which I’ll be replacing) but it also seems to have some reddish sealant on it. The sensor is M10 but there is nothing listed in the torque settings for M10 oil temp sensor… an “Oil temperature sensor” is listed but this is M12 x 1.5 (not M10). It calls for 18 Nm and lock 4 (Lloctite 510 flange sealant resistant to mechanical stress, solvents and high temps - it’s pink so I think this is what was used rightly or wrongly). I suspect this M12 relates to the ÉCU temp sensor on the front cylinder, not the M10 LCD temp sensor…

Anyone know what torque/sealant (if any) should be used here?

‘Helpfully’ (not) the spin on oil filter that I got a correct fitting wrench for so I can fit a new one to the correct torque turns out to be fine for what’s on there now (I checked first) but on removal it’s a champion filter, not a Ducati one. And it turns out Ducati filters have a different number of faces (8). So I’ll need an 8 sided one to correctly fit the new Ducati spin on filter I already got. Grrr…

And lastly but most pressing is how to get the oil pick up filter out (the gauze one before the oil pump). On other models like my M600 it appears to come out attached to the cap. However from parts diagram for the 1000DS engine the cap is separate and the filter itself also appears to have a thread and some kind of socket (it’s also listed with a torque setting in the manual). From feeling with my finger it’s not a 6 sided Allen socket though (hard to tell but maybe 12 sided?) and it’s bigger than my biggest long 12mm Allen socket.

Anyone know what socket I need to get this out/refit it using a torque wrench? Some larger size of long Allen socket wrench? Or some special >6 sided tool? Any thoughts apprecaiated! Another simple job already becoming complicated/slowed by needing things I don’t have…

[yellowfever]

Well I answered (one of) my own questions



I dimly recalled randomly having a large somewhat rusty Allen key of unknown size that I think was from my dad’s old tools. After some digging I managed to find it and what do you know it fits perfectly! It’s 14mm in case anyone wants to know…

So I guess I’ll give it a bit of a clean and then be spending some time with a hacksaw so I can use it with a 14mm socket… or use it with an extension bar to remove filter and buy a proper 14mm hex key socket for when it comes time to refit and torque up.

[yellowfever]

OK after some further checking the LCD temp sensor (thermistor) is definitely M10 x 1. There are only two references to temperature sensor in the torque listings which are:

Oil temperature sensor holder nut M30 x 1.5 = 38 NM Lock 4 (loctite 510)
Oil temperature sensor M12 x 1.5 = 18NM, Lock 4 (loctite 510)

neither of which is for M10 x 1. There are max torque settings listed for (otherwise) “unspecified fasteners” of various diameters and pitches, but again no listing for M10 x 1. All the M10 x 1 fasteners listed in the torque settings table are clearly not the oil temperature thermistor from their descriptions…

The first reference to oil temperature sensor appears to be a reference to the large ring nut that holds the ECU temperature sensor on the horizontal cylinder.

The second reference may also relate to that same temperature sensor (the parts diagram shows many components making up this assembly) but I think I’m going to assume this is guidance intended for the M10 x 1 LCD oil temperature thermistor, but with the size and pitch details listed incorrectly in the manual.

Supporting this interpretation, there is clear evidence of a reddish/pink sealant (same colour as lock 4/loctite 510) on the M10 x 1 thermistor (which I doubt has ever been removed previously) and 18NM does not sound out of whack for M10 fasteners using flange sealant (similar to torque values specified for various other M10 x 1 fasteners for the engine and well below max torque for otherwise unspecified M10 x 1.5 fasteners which are given a max torque of up to 45 NM).

So I think I’ll have to assume an error in the workshop manual (a not exactly unheard of occurrence) and use 18 NM and lock4/loctite 510…

I’ve also ordered a long M14 Allen bit socket so I can refit the oil pick up filter gauze to the correct torque. And an 8 side oil filter wrench to fit the new Ducati oil filter I’ll be fitting to the 11NM torque. Fingers crossed everything turns up ASAP so I can get the moto ready to go for some nice weather we may get next week…

[Kato]

18 NM sounds about right or that sensor personally in more years than I care to think about I have never used a torque wrench on a sensor

As for the sealer 510 is perfect for that job, high temp-chemical resistant is all that matters for that task, three bond will also do the job if thats what you have

[jerry]

I used a 14mm hex to get the mesh filter out on S4 , my other monster 750 and ss are different they just pop out

[yellowfever]

Thanks Kato, appreciate the reassurance I’m on the right lines. I’ve got loctite 510, so I’ll be using that.

Thanks Jerry, yeah I was expecting filter would just pop out like on my M600 so it was an unwelcome surprise to find I needed a long M14 Allen key (and that I don’t have that in socket form). Anyway I’ll have the correct socket soon via Amazon so I can correctly torque it up on re-fitting.

[yellowfever]

So I got my 14mm Allen bit socket from Amazon and refitted the pick up filter mesh screen to the correct torque after cleaning it in petrol as per manual and picking a few bits of detritus out with plastic tweezers. It was actually very clean, just some tiny (non magnetic) metal specks and a couple of small threads of grey gasket sealant.

Pick up filter cap refitted with new alu washer and the LCD temperature sensor cleaned up and refitted to the cap with a new copper washer and loctite 510 as per the manual (or at least what the manual suggests given it seems to have an error in listing the temp sensor thread and diameter).

Reconnecting the LCD temp sensor wire is tricky as the rubber boot is unyieldingly solid after all these years. It had already made it a pain to clean up the spade receptacle connector within the boot. The boots are not listed in the official parts diagrams, so I tried various concoctions to soften it, but none of them made much difference. I had noticed it had some letters and numbers embossed on it. Some internet research later and you can get replacements from Ariete who originally made it. One email later and they came back the next day with a stockist to order from in cc who also responded immediately. To make the postage more worthwhile I also got the boot for the starter motor positive cable which they are also the OE maker for. Will come in handy when it comes time to fit the upgraded starter cable I’ve got.

If anyone is interested:

https://www.ariete.com/spare-parts-by-category/

And the stockist (excellent but in Germany so there may be more cost effective options for the UK)

https://www.thekingofpiston.com/prod...b53949d9&_ss=r

[yellowfever]

As I’m doing the oil line mod I removed them and the oil cooler. I taped up the cooler oil nipples and cleaned the cooler externally with S100 and a toothbrush and rinsed off with water and dried it. My cooler is not in bad shape considering but whilst at it I took the time to straighten the various fins using wide grip plastic tweezers (fins v delicate and I found tweezers worked well as you could gently squeeze the fins between them to help straighten them out without too much distortion). Hopefully the Mr Gazza productions oil coller protective mesh screen I’ll be fitting will keep the worst of the dings off it in the future.

For the mod I’ll be fitting a new oil delivery line from a Hypermotard which routes alongside the return line round the alternator side to clean up the timing side. I’ll be using the existing return line so, even though they looked OK, I renewed the double vitron o rings at each end of the return line as they’re 18 years old and cheap enough. That way both oil lines have new o rings. I’ll be using some plastic oil line clips (an official part from a different Ducati model) to keep pipes clipped together securely next to each other without touching/rubbing. There was a recall on one Ducati model some years back due to oil lines rubbing and potentially causing a dangerous oil leak, so I thought I may as well do it properly.

At this point I was going to refit the lines and cooler and refill the oil and be done. But I’m sure we all identify with the Peter Falk Columbo tendency - ‘just one more thing” whilst I’m at it tendency. In my case the starter motor paint cried out to me. It has been sandblasted off in some places by the front wheel spray (with an untouched bit in between the bare patches where the oil line protects it) and it was showing some minor signs of rust. Ideally I had wanted to take this off and paint it properly (not least as these are not cheap to replace). But it’s fairly involved to do that, so it will have to wait until some more full on resto in the years to come.. In the meantime I made do with sanding off the rust, masking up the bike and painting what I could in situ (essentially just the front bit that gets the worst of the spray. Thanks to my crap masking the first time it now has a truly excessive 10 coats of black hammerite spray paint on it. 4-5 coats is considered plenty for a resilient finish, but after taking off the masking after 5 coats I realised I’d over masked one side a bit leaving it looking a bit stupid. So one re-mask and 5 more coats later the missed bit has 5 coats and the central bit most in the line of fire has 10. That should do it!

The end result, I’m no painter but happy enough with this.



Once fully dry it’s back to refitting cooler/oil line mod and refilling oil and I’m done (for now)!

[crawsue]

Good job ! Hopefully the weather will stay rideable for you to enjoy the fruits of your labours .

[yellowfever]

Thanks! Well I’m year round riding these days, though I do try to pick my times/days and avoid salted roads where I can. Finally having a garage and the ability to rinse bike off whenever I want after a ride is a big bonus.