2006 S2R 1000 rolling refresh, upgrades and servicing

[yellowfever]

OK starting this thread to keep me honest on some progress plus to seek occasional advice as needed plus to document in case useful to others. I finally have a garage so I at last have the chance to work on my bike properly, rather than snatched moments in underground car parks.

For now I’ll mostly be sticking to small things (minor upgrades/refreshing, plus doing my own regular servicing) as I want to concentrate on riding, not have my bike off the road for a long period.

I have collected various second hand bits from here, eBay etc and bought some new bits too. So I’ll be fitting some of these, refreshing things and servicing the bike as due.

Upgrades/overhauls to do/considering
Fit Ohlins DU333 rear shock - finally found a second hand one still with its box after many, many years searching (Ohlins stopped making years ago). Just got it professionally serviced ready for me to fit.
Upgrade Front fork internals (thinking of using Maxton)
Front headlight improve (better headlight wiring? Better H4 bulb/clean and polish reflector and lens/buy LED bulb if can fit in headlight shell or buy and fit LED headlight using Gazza headlight ring)
Fit Oil cooler screen (another Mr G special ) DONE
Fit stainless lock stop bolts and clock retaining bolts (another product made by a member here - Nasher)
Paint and fit alu tank from Tecknorace if I ever get it! Manuel has had my deposit for 3.5 years and still nothing but excuses (and for the last year not even that), despite other people getting their tanks in the meantime
Replace cracked clocks glass (and replace speedo readings to KPH?)
Derust and repaint starter motor DONE (in situ so front part only)
Strip clean grease and reassemble side stand DONE, and gear lever DONE and rear brake pedal DONE
Clean/overhaul brakes - New seals, fluid, possibly new stainless or titanium pistons
fit stahlbus bleed valves maybe Fit Speedbleed valve for rear (as Stahlbus won’t fit rear). Though speed bleed now cancelled my order as won’t post from USA…

Clean/overhal all electrics inc:
Check all cables and sockets for wear and corrosion and clean up as needed ONGOING, Doing as come across them. SO FAR: taillight/brakelight, fuel pump superseal connection (external under tank - perished boot replaced) Oil pressure sensor, LCD temp sensor, earth, battery terminals, rear brake switch, side stand switch.
Fit motolectrc hi-cap battery/starter cables
Fit motolectric series reg/rectifier
Fit extra rear/brake light with Integrated numberplate light in place of numberplate light (makes bike more visible especially when carrying luggage on Ventura rack which partly obscures standard tail/brakelight).
Possibly add brake flasher unit for this brake light.
Possibly create hazard flash option (have LHS Ducati switchgear from Multistrada 1000/1100 65140141A L/H Switch) which has the hazard switch, need to investigate how to do it)
Fit new Oxford heated grips. (Old ones getting a bit tired)

Fit healtech thunder box for cleaner electrical accessory management DONE
Fit bar mounted USB charging points (inc on/off switch and voltmeter) DONE
Fit ultimate add-ons phone case to bars on RAM mount so can use phone for GPS DONE
Make GPS cradle detachable by converting permanently wired cable to short USB lead instead
Fit dedicated power lead for Keis heated vest DONE
Tidy up Powerlet socket wiring DONE

[yellowfever]

Servicing to do
Minor service this year DONE
Oil and filter change DONE
Mesh oil screen clean DONE
K & N Air filter clean/oil DONE (new filter fitted, old cleaned/oiled and kept as spare)
Do compression test as reference

Check spark plugs DONE
Check/replace rear brake pads (DONE - cleaned and refitted as still some life left)
Fix minor oil leak DONE originally suspected from engine side oil line(s) (This is probably due to strain as the oil lines were refitted the wrong way round by a pro some years ago and never noticed by me or any of the other pro service guys since, until I spotted when I was investigating oil leak…). Getting new O rings and washers, maybe I will also swap oil delivery line for Hypermotard 2008 version so can route alongside return line to LHS for neater look/easier belt cover removal). OIL LINE MOD DONE
Actually on further investigation looks like timing shaft oil seal is the source of the leak. Need to replace and maybe replace camshaft oil seals whilst at it? And replace rather than just refit belts or refit belts and replace them as due next year? (DONE- timing shaft seal replaced, belts refitted, tested with 4 x long runs and all good)

Major service next year
As standard minor stuff plus:
New Belts
Valve clearances
Maybe swap from standard collets to MBP collects at valve service?
Compression test before and after valve service

Possible other things in longer term

Steering head bearings - renew or replace ball bearing races with taper rollers?
Take engine to Bigelar for engine blueprinting? For reliability? Performance upgrade?
Engine repaint?
Frame repaint?
Thermostat for oil cooler lines?
Centre stand? (Possible? Adapt ST4 one?)

[yellowfever]

Anyway first priorities are:

1) sort oil leak as it recently seems to be getting worse than the slight weep it’s been for a few months, so I can’t keep putting it off (I hoped to sort over winter/do as part of next years belt change but don’t want to leave it any longer now DONE (I HOPE - timing shaft oil seal changed) DONE (confirmed sorted after several long rides)
2) do minor service (oil/filter etc) DONE
3) fit new rear brake pads DONE not needed yet so cleaned and refitted

On (1) I will start a separate thread.

[Mr Gazza]

Oh goody! Looking forward to this..

Just a few comments, regarding an LED bulb in the standard Bosch reflector; you'll probably make it worse! The focus is very often way out on LED bulbs compared to the hot bulb H4 that they replace. The reflector is pretty poor anyway, which is why I developed the adapter to experiment with normal 7" H4 reflectors.
I've been through a few and the best results I've had so far is with a Hella unit and an LED H4 bulb of US origin but sadly unknown make.

You've given me an idea with stainless lock-stop bolts, they are easy to forget tucked out of sight. I tend not to buy stainless fasteners anymore, I'm gradually replacing them with Titanium now, wish I'd just bought Ti in the first place.
Your nacelle mounting bolts were likely made by Nasher?

Re Satnav mounts; have you seen the Beeline? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226283183...hoCwYEQAvD_BwE That's just an example to show you, the price varies enormously depending where you look, so worth shopping around.
My mate turned up with one at East Kirby last weekend and was really pleased with it. I then noticed another on a Monster and spoke to the owner who seemed very pleased with his too.
I'm thinking of getting one, even though I have never bothered with a Satnav before. I just memorise the route beforehand, which has always worked until I'm forced to divert for whatever reason, then I can end up in a muddle.
I like the fact that they are so discreet and easy to mount and yet very clear to read. They don't require any power connection either, further simplifying things... Might be an alternative to your current plan?

[Bitza]

Well that's quite a list you've drawn up for yourself, so good luck with ticking off a few items.
Re:- replacing fasteners I agree with Gazza Ti over stainless is usually the best way to go, but beware Ti is addictive. Also for some jobs Ali can be preferable, ie. for holding rubber pads onto tank, or fasteners for front mudguard etc.

[yellowfever]

Yeah this is a list formed by 18 years of frustration not having a garage! It may take me that long again to work through it… but anyway the longest journey begins with the first step etc…

Gaza, thanks for the thoughts on LED bulbs, noted. Indeed much to consider…

And yes think you’re right, credit due to Nasher for the stainless bolts I’ll be fitting for clocks/lock stops.

On SatNav I have had a Garmin Zumo fitted on Ram mount for many years. It’s mostly been great, but the last ever map update for this old unit will be in September, so going to swap to using phone and apps. GPS cradle is hard wired, but hoping to cut lead and convert to short USB power lead to fit to USB socket (when I’ve fitted that to bars to power phone) so I’ll still have a GPS option (albeit increasingly dated) when I don’t want to use phone.

On fasteners at least for now I’ll mostly just be cleaning up/reusing originals and not systematically just whenever I happen to take one off for other reasons. But I’ll at some point fit the stainless lock stop and clocks ones I got here. Duly noted on TI - brakes rebuild when I get to it may be start off my own addiction as weight savings on unsprung weight might allow me to ‘justify’ the expense!

[stopintime]

Big service at Biggelaar includes valve lapping and the result is "blue print". "Within" spec" is a dirty word for him. Perfection, thank you very much The service intervals is then double. From 12,000km to 24,000.

"Mild tune" is intake work + dyno work on a bike with exhaust. 95bhp on the rear wheel. That's 105 "Ducati" hp.

Fantastic light upgrade with what we used to call "clear glass light". It's 10mm smaller diameter. With the best Philips "super duper" it's as good/better than LED conversions. My impression. No wire upgrade required.

[900Rebuilder]

I've tried different ways to fit an led bulb into my 900 and just can't do it. All the bulbs I've purchased have all been too tall and not allowed the light to go back together.

[yellowfever]

Thanks stopintime, good to know Biggelar experience is so positive. It’s certainly on my longer term wish list when I get to a more major refresh. Noted I won’t mention ‘blueprinting’ mild tune sounds about right for what I’d want…

Do you have a link or exact name for the better light you mention? I can add to my list of things to consider on improving headlight…

900Rebuilder - thanks yeah, I’m getting the impression LED bulb in existing headlight not really viable given size. And given cooling needed if they were made small enough to fit they’d probably not have enough cooling? So if I want to go LED will probably involve using the Gazza adaptor ring to swap to a LED headlight. I do prefer traditional glass lens for looks though, so may look at the traditional looking LED options now becoming available or else conventional headlight options (including improving stock a bit with better bulb/wiring/polishing).

[stopintime]

These are quite similar, but not exactly what I have. Might work fine.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394355867...BoCQGkQAvD_BwE


https://www.motoin.de/Accessories/Bo...RoC7IcQAvD_BwE

[Darren69]

I had this in my S4 for a while before switching to one of Gazzas LED jobbies. It is very bright.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145909249...mis&media=COPY

[yellowfever]

Thanks you both for the headlight tips - more food for thought…