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Members: 664 | Total Threads: 50,909 | Total Posts: 519,166 Currently Active Users: 1,241 (0 active members) Please welcome our newest member, nellie691 |
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10-12-2020, 05:04 PM | #61 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hondon de los Frailes
Bike: S4r
Posts: 290
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Wowzer, amazing attention to detail, I am hugely impressed fella, keep up the good work
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12-12-2020, 04:54 PM | #62 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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Quote:
Did a bit of painting and polishing today… painted and lacquered the clutch cover, and rear spring, and put a coat of lacquer on the cam belt covers which I had decided to carbon effect dip… not everyone’s cup of tea I know, but I like the look… The silencers came up really well! there were a few marks on them that would have niggled me so I decided to polish them. as an aside, while the spray gun had some lacquer in, I finished off some cheese boards I have been making as Christmas presents for friends... its got me a few brownie points.. the fruit and spices are encapsulated in clear casing resin. |
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12-12-2020, 05:29 PM | #63 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,935
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Lovely! You can't beat a bit of shinola.
I bought a (cheap) set of cored and polished silencers shortly after buying my 900, but chappie had polished off the anodising from the start with a mop and the result is not only hard work for him but as soon as the mop penetrates the hard anodised surface it digs in the ally. They were quite rippled and I could never flatten them out. I've recently done another set and started with an orbital sander with a flat pad to get the anodise off. This left them flat and polishing was a doddle. The easiest way to core them if you want to go that way is just to drill holes in the end plate between the inner and outer tailpipe. Much easier than chopping the cans all up, you just keep adding holes until the required tone is achieved. Chopping boards will be Elm?
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12-12-2020, 05:45 PM | #64 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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that's exactly what I did! I used a DA with 320 grit discs on and sanded them first... they came up really well...
not sure what the wood is, I found it in a mates loft while I was helping him do some ducting... he said it had been there 30 years! |
12-12-2020, 06:14 PM | #65 |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Stockbridge
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,984
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Looks a lot like Elm, but most of that came down forty five years ago.
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Original and Best since 1993 |
14-12-2020, 06:03 PM | #66 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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Started the rebuild… first job was to put the frame on the engine, easy job, I held it, my wife popped the bolts in! I then fitted the headstock bearings, which I have replaced as there were small sighs of pitting, and they are cheap. I pulled them in rather than use a hammer, which also means you can give them a good tighten and bed them in nice and hard against the register. Its starting to come together… Was also playing around with the image of the engine…
anyone know what those forks are and how much oil I should put in each leg? |
14-12-2020, 07:17 PM | #67 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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15-12-2020, 12:18 AM | #68 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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Just had another look at that picture of your forks - are they the adjustable ones? If so, they may be from a 900SS and, if that's the case, then the oil capacity/level would be different - 440cc and 108mm respectively:
Are there any model numbers stamped into the bottom inside edge of the forks perhaps? |
15-12-2020, 08:49 AM | #69 | |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Stockbridge
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,984
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Quote:
The Showa forks I’ve seen have ‘SHOWA’ cast into the ally fork bottoms, next to the wheel, so easily seen when the wheel’s out, but less so when fitted.
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Original and Best since 1993 Last edited by Darkness; 15-12-2020 at 12:13 PM.. |
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15-12-2020, 08:52 AM | #70 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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Thanks guys, here are some close ups... any idea what they are?
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15-12-2020, 10:11 AM | #71 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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Well I did say I was no expert! Darkness is correct; that logo shows they are, in fact, Marzocchi. Unfortunately, the only data I have on Marzocchis are for my Evo. I'm sure someone on here will have the info. you need though.
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15-12-2020, 10:16 AM | #72 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,731
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They're Marzocchis from the the line and circle (fork and wheel) logo above 'CA.'
this might help http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...d.php?p=576609 "Haynes says for the Marzocchi forks it should be: 90mm air gap and SAE 7.5 Oil" Last edited by slob; 15-12-2020 at 10:20 AM.. Reason: d'oh... too slow |
15-12-2020, 10:21 AM | #73 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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I think Flip has the Marzocchis on his Monster and he's done lots of work on the suspension, so he may have the information you need*. (By the way, aren't the Marzocchis the ones where one fork controls compression damping and one rebound?)
*Or, indeed, slob! Last edited by Luddite; 15-12-2020 at 10:24 AM.. Reason: d'oh...too slow! |
15-12-2020, 02:34 PM | #74 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,518
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Some reading for you:
http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58262 http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58486 Nasher.
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15-12-2020, 03:28 PM | #75 |
Too much time on my hands member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Stonehouse, Glos
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 2,084
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Definitely adjustable Marzocchis, I have the same on my '96 900 monster.
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