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Members: 636 | Total Threads: 50,828 | Total Posts: 518,539 Currently Active Users: 1,243 (0 active members) Please welcome our newest member, jaraduke |
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#16 | |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Telford
Bike: S4r
Posts: 175
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#17 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Aylsham
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 194
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#18 | |||
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Farnborough
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 171
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Quote:
Yeh, actually, Fowler's in Bristol had 10 in stock on Tuesday (9 now, sorry boys ![]() They were cheaper than anyone I saw on Flea Bay @ 20.57 GBP (VAT included), and will pop them in a plain brown envelope and mail them out for 3-4 quid; got mine today. That's a pint you owe me ![]() Quote:
Do the same for the Ducati connector block on your original rectifier, and then you can swap the Ducati locking connector block onto the Triumph link cable - just adjust the terminal tang so it's slighly proud if it got flat, push the terminal into the block until it clicks/locks. And then you'll have the locking function on the block on the Triumph cable as well. Might want to add a small zip tie; the lock doesn't quite hold the connector 100% of the way in... (to clarify this is mostly to make it more weathertight - the electrical connection is fine) Quote:
Hit the button, big pause while it winds up - fires up every time... And they discharge 1% per month if you don't use the bike, not 10% like lead acid. I'm, like, so over lead acid/AGM technology... Last edited by spuggy; 13-08-2020 at 01:17 AM.. |
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#19 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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As you say, it's fitted as standard to, for example, the 821 and 1200 Monsters and, knowing Ducati as we do, you wouldn't expect the bean counters to authorise a top spec R/R when a cheaper option is available. I was under the impression it was an unremarkable SCR shunt type (I think the S in SH signifies SCR circuitry and the F in FH indicates (MOS)FET). Having corresponded with Shindengen in the past, I pinged them an email for clarification and, to their credit, they replied straightaway: ![]() Last edited by Luddite; 13-08-2020 at 06:56 PM.. Reason: Series type model nos. added |
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#20 | ||||
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Farnborough
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 171
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Well, frolicking puppies and rainbows... I knew the SH775 is a 35A SCR series R/R, and the SH847 a 50A version of the same. The SH821 is a later (& still current) type; to my mind, it beggars belief that Ducati are still fitting SCR shunts to new bikes... Ho-hum. Found a cheap source for SH775's (heh - Polaris have jacked the price of their part to $200 since the Strom guys discovered them at 60). Least the 775 will be a straight swap ... Quote:
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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Negotiating your way through all the Shindengen R/Rs is a real minefield, Spuggy, especially as Shindengen themselves don't appear to publish a list of all their models and types, (at least I've never managed to find one).
It also doesn't help that, despite producing products with fundamentally different circuitry, Shindengen uses the same labelling system to identify them all - SH775, SH821, SH847 - you can't tell from the model no. which is shunt and which, if any, is series. It would be much simpler if the series type had its own dedicated suffix (they do identify the MOSFET type with an 'F' after all). But that would make life too easy, wouldn't it?! |
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#22 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Farnborough
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 171
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Quote:
And although that list is quite useful, the very first entry (for an SH775) is incorrect, as that unit isn't a MOSFET Series R/R.... Quote:
As you appear to have a corporate A/C with those guys (required to open an account/ask web-form questions - understandable given they're 100% OEM/zero retail), would you be in a position to ask for specific datasheets? Or technical questions? Reason for asking is that the SH775 is an 35A SCR-based series R/R. It used to be dirt-cheap ($60), but now is much more expensive (like $192 as a Polaris OEM part), and is known to have at least one problem;intended for an ATV, it doesn't regulate over some high RPM - variously reported to be 9,000 RPM (strongly disputed by guys who've measured theirs at this), or 10,000 RPM. In the absence of any real evidence, looks like you could choose what you want to believe: https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/re...-esr279.47773/ https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/a....748962/page-2 And even Jake is only repeating what some customers have told him, apparently https://v4musclebike.com/forums/show...ndengen&page=3 (BTW, page two of that thread has a video of a chap statically rev'ing his bike to 10,000 RPM, and the voltage output from the SH775 remains constant - another guy in the same thread says he had the SH775 fitted and working perfectly for 2 years before he even heard there was supposed to be an issue over 10,000 RPM)... But it'd be really, really nice to have a definitive statement from ShinDengen... Apparently, some of those Triumph 4's are red-lined at 14,000, 16,000 RPM (wow, ![]() Jake used to supply the SH775. He now doesn't, and recommends the SH847 instead - because gets them for almost the same money. He has expressed concerns regarding the SH775 and the RPM limit; he isn't convinced that the shutdown it performs when this limit is exceeded (which he states as 9-10K, so quotes 9K to be conservative) is non-harmful to the unit itself. From his POV, the SH775 is potentially problematic for some and very close to the same price as the SH847 - which has more capacity and works with everything... I can see exactly where he's coming from. but
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#23 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Beachtown
Bike: M900
Posts: 2,188
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Here’s their response when I asked this: “Can you please tell me the difference between the FH012AA and the FH020AA which replaced it?“ Fm.Shindengen Thank you very much for inquiry through our company website. We are very pleased to answer to your demand. Our car electric components are customized product for the Motorcycle Manufacturer. We deeply apologize but due to a trade agreement with the Motorcycle Manufacturer, we are prohibited to sales and disclose any information of our products to customer directly. We apologize for this inconvenience but please contact with the official sales store of the Motorcycle Manufacturer.
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You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you! |
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#24 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Farnborough
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 171
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#25 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Bike: S4r
Posts: 104
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Question for you gents....a mate of mine had a MOTOBATT AGM on his bike...told me his bike wouldn't start...took a Lithium with me ( higher CCA ) just to prove battery is probably flat.....he said when trying to start it was just chattering ie rattling the starter sprag..thus insufficient current to spin it over.....the MOTOBATT showing over 12volts but not enough current to spin over the bike....once an AGM battery is flat....ie this one hadn't been charged for months and it was an old battery.....are they beyond being recovered back to a fully charged state.....I've had both good and bad experiences with MOTOBATT over the years....Incidentally , the Lithium fired the bike up straight away...Look forward to your replies.Thanks.
adie851 |
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#26 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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It's generally accepted that AGM batteries shouldn't be discharged by more than 50%, (which equates to 11.95v). If left heavily discharged for a long period, it may be impossible to recharge it fully. There are 'hacks' you can try to recover it, for example charging it in parallel with another, healthy, AGM battery. But, if you've any doubts about the battery's health, you're probably better off just replacing it.
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#27 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Bike: S4r
Posts: 104
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Thanks Vince, I thought it if the AGM was well discharged then it would be game over.
Cheers adie851 |
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