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06-09-2019, 03:12 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Dublin Ireland
Bike: M900
Posts: 298
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Battery Voltage
1997 M900
Battery is the Yusa , 11 months old, I also removed the butt connectors a few weeks back and replaced with crimped connections , slightly larger gauge wire I had to put in an older battery (3 years old) the other morning as the battery went flat but bike is used daily, the battery should not be going flat Testing with the older battery (3 years old)
I expect we should see higher voltage at idle, 14+? I suspect the battery is not getting charged enough when driven? Last edited by CarloL; 06-09-2019 at 06:20 PM.. |
06-09-2019, 04:10 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
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More importantly, what's the charging voltage at, say, 3-5000 revs? If it's 14.2v-14.5v then that's normal. If it's still 13.8v, then your charging system may be getting tired.
A single lead-acid cell will start to charge at anything over 2.15v so, as the battery will have six cells, that's 12.9v for a complete battery, (although at that voltage, it would take ages to charge - like a trickle charger). While 13.8v would be at the lower end of what would be expected, under normal circumstances, it should be enough to maintain a healthy battery with no abnormal power drains. If the maximum charging voltage is actually less than 14v then that, coupled with the tracker, may mean that the battery just can't quite keep up. Rather than measuring the battery voltage with the tracker active, it would be more revealing to measure the current draw in amperes. Anything more than 50 milliamps could cause problems |
06-09-2019, 06:03 PM | #3 |
Transmaniacon MOC
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Sutton In Ashfield
Bike: Multiple Monsters
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What year is the bike? The old single phase system on the older bikes is marginal at best. Anything over 12v is charging but I would expect 13-14v but not much more and it will be overcharging which will kill the battery just as bad as undercharging.
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06-09-2019, 06:19 PM | #4 |
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Bike: M900
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Sorry its a 1997 M900
Thanks Checked again at revs , voltage does not change , stays at 13.4V this time regardless of RPM How do I test the amp draw , I tried it and just got a blank screen Was using this https://www.halfords.ie/workshop-too...tal-multimeter |
06-09-2019, 07:18 PM | #5 |
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Location: Sutton In Ashfield
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That sounds about right for a single phase '97 like my 748 i put in on a trickle charge because unless you are going on long run outs you will be using more battery power to start it than you can put back in. Get a decent trickle charger and put it on that to keep the battery topped up.
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06-09-2019, 07:23 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
You'll need to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and then put the meter in series with the battery i.e. black meter lead on the negative terminal and red lead on the negative lead of the battery. With the tracker on, you'll see how much current it's drawing on the meter. 50 milliamps will show as 0.050. NB! Don't whatever you do try to start the bike with the meter in series; they're usually only rated for 10A max and the heavy current for the starter will fry it I think the 1997 Monster still used the single phase alternator. I don't know what the expected DC voltage output of a healthy example should be but I think the AC output should be around 30v at idle, 70v at 3000 rpm and 140v at 6000 rpm (Haynes manual?). This is a useful source of reference for the charging system: http://ducati-upnorth.com/tech/chargingfailure.php |
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06-09-2019, 09:12 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Apr 2017
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Great thanks for the info
I am in a place I cannot get a trickle charger on it , might just take the battery put every 2 weeks and charge it |
07-09-2019, 08:10 AM | #8 |
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Bike: M900
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Something doesn't sound right there to me- my 1997 900 can easily be left two weeks or more without being on charge and still start ok and that's with a seven year old Motobatt.
Especially since I replaced the fuel pumps and hoses so the carbs fill quicker when the button is pressed. But clearly you have an electrical issue to begin with, so I would certainly start by going through all the electrical connections (particularly the grounds), cleaning them up and putting them back together with a little Silicone grease- same goes for all the fuses. As these bikes get older they do need a little more attention to keep them happy and it is things like this that get overlooked and will end up failing when you're out miles away from home which is why I went through mine and replaced the starter and ground connection leads a couple of years ago- it spins up a lot quicker since doing so meaning less pressure is put upon the somewhat marginal charging system. I will start mine up later and take some readings for a reference for you.
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07-09-2019, 08:53 AM | #9 |
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Thanks
Mine is a vacuum mechanical fuel pump I constantly drive with the headlight on , maybe not too much draw on the battery when driving In general everything on the wiring harness looks in good condition, I try to keep things topped up with ACF50 to prevent corrosion |
07-09-2019, 11:35 AM | #10 |
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Tested if anything is putting a draw on the battery (with GPS attached), nothing
GPS has an internal battery, not too sure if it only uses the bike battery when it's internal battery gets below a certain capicity Might be time to get the exact fit battery cable setup, Gps Power Draw At 12V < 5 mA (Ultra Deep Sleep), At 12V < 9 mA (Deep Sleep) At 12V < 11 mA (GPS Sleep) ,At 12V < 26 mA (nominal) Working Voltage 10v – 30v DC with overvoltage protection Last edited by CarloL; 07-09-2019 at 11:40 AM.. |
08-09-2019, 02:18 PM | #11 |
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My M750 had an odd fault, similar to yours, the battery going "flat" quickly on layup. Key in, ignition on, dim dash lights. I thought battery, did the tests all ok but had convinced myself that the battery was the issue, changed it, still the same. waste of money, eventually worked out it was the main relay (under the seat) going high resistance internally, opened it up, cleaned the contacts, still the same. Changed it for a new one and, fingers crossed, it solved the issue.
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08-09-2019, 02:50 PM | #12 |
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Could that or you could just have a failing battery that wont hold charge and rubbish charging on the 2 wire system, taking out more than you can put back in.
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Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage |
08-09-2019, 04:14 PM | #13 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2017
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Bike: M900
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Quote:
I changed all these on my 748s , main relay , starter solenoid I also purchased some uprated starter cables , grounding cable ; it helps alot but so far she is going great , CTEK LED battery indicator is consistently green I gave her good clean the weekend , cables all look good ,will put some conductive lube on the grounds , cabling when the new cables arrive |
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11-09-2019, 06:48 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
As you have stated that you have 13.8 volts at tick over then the alternator IS working. |
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18-09-2019, 07:00 PM | #15 |
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Dublin Ireland
Bike: M900
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Fitted the Exact Start Cables, bike fires up at a wiff of the button , running great , I still have to install the earth and Starter Solenoid to Starter cable(Nut is seized)
Cable from the Battery to starter solenoid is just fitted, it is nearly twice as thick as the OE |
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