What's the best oil

23-03-2019, 07:50 PM

Oil filter has failed so I need to replace it and the oil. Book suggests Shell Advance Ultra 4T 15W-50. What do you guys use?

Oh, and by the way K&N Filter?

Thanks.

Steve
2012 Monster 1100 Evo

Stevedesmo · 23-03-2019, 07:53 PM

Seriously?

chris.p · 23-03-2019, 08:51 PM

Motul 300V

Ron1000 · 23-03-2019, 09:14 PM

Motul 5100! I think.

Luddite · 23-03-2019, 09:21 PM

On Moto Rapido's recommendation, I use Motul 7100 10w40.

The cheapest price for 4 litres at the moment, (including p&p), is £38 via Amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MOUNTAIN-10.../dp/B00IKCY9RK

Darkness · 23-03-2019, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luddite

On Moto Rapido's recommendation, I use Motul 7100 10w40.

The cheapest price for 4 litres at the moment, (including p&p), is £38 via Amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MOUNTAIN-10.../dp/B00IKCY9RK

Seconded, but I buy it from MotoRapido!

boris · 23-03-2019, 09:47 PM

Used Shell 4T since venturing into Ducatiland 15 years ago..

24-03-2019, 08:28 AM

If the book says 15w50 then totally ignore anyone who tells you to use 10w40. They probably have a different engine to yours.
Providing you stick with a viscosity and a specification then the manufacturer makes no difference.

Nickj · 24-03-2019, 09:01 AM

I did find this reccomended somewhere on the wub although there were no mixing instructions ...
ostrich lard, astro lube, and extra extra VIRGIN olive oil

I think that the extra virgin is the critical component.

An interesting aside on the Syth / non-synth debate...

In Europe Castrol won a court case which meant that Group III Mineral based oils could be termed "synthetic".
This gives you varied pour points (consider it how thick/runny the oil is at different temperatures) so Shell Advance Ultra 4 10W-40 is -30C and Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 is -54C.
Which means the fully syth oils are runnier when cold, great thing when starting up on a cold day AND loose less viscosity when they get hot.

Having said that my last monster ran to 100K on regular changes of forecourt semi-synth. With any oil it's the change frequency that dictates engine life and to a degree the long term cost of consumables.
At peak I was changing oil at intervals of less than 2 months because I was doing some big miles (50 to 100 a day) so long term cost became a bit important!

At the moment I'm using Shell Advanced 4T as it was a bargain batch and I'm running next to no miles

holty · 24-03-2019, 09:22 AM

The handbook does indeed say 15w 50 fully synthetic and I believe that this works in a wide range of circumstances this is what Ducati recommend and their partner Shell have available. However 15w 50 will rob power and on start up will flow much slower than 10w 40 - a more viscous oil is not a better oil and in fact it can be quite the opposite.
After much research into oil viscoicity I run fully synthetic Mobil one 10w 40 and change it once a year and or 3000 miles in my 1100ds motor. As for oil filters I fit OE Ducati because they are as good as anything? I have only covered 25k on this engine so to prove my methods it’s going to be a long wait!
If you are worried stick to the Handbook.

Mr Gazza · 24-03-2019, 10:09 AM

Really intrigued by the statement "Oil filter has failed".
What does this mean? Has it failed to filter? Failed to stay on?
How was it's failure diagnosed? Is it a visible failure from the outside, such as a massive leak or burst? Or a forensic analysis after an engine seizure?

Yes definitely use oil.
Always remove the plastic film from the top of a new filter before fitting.

...and finally "Oh, and by the way K&N filter?".
A statement followed by a question mark.
So are you saying the filter that failed was a K&N and you question if this could possibly be the reason for the failure, or perhaps you are questioning how unusual it is for a K&N filter to fail.
Maybe you are stating that the filter in question is a K&N filter and the question mark is a typo.
Perhaps you are questioning the suitability of a K&N filter as a replacement.

Anyway everybody has had a jolly time quoting their choice of oil...Hope you are suitably confused.

Evostu · 24-03-2019, 10:09 AM

I was told,by two ducati trained technicians ,that the book says 15/50 as it's a hotter climate in Italy and it stops the oil getting two thin,10/40 is perfectly adequate in dear old Blighty

Stevedesmo · 24-03-2019, 10:46 AM

Those Italians hey, what are they like? Assuming that their bikes never go for sale in cooler countries and recommending an unsuitable oil for the uk........mama Mia!

I wonder if they considered the cold winters in Italy and a hot summer like we had in the uk last year when this global rule of thumb was developed?

Luddite · 24-03-2019, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevedesmo

Those Italians hey, what are they like? Assuming that their bikes never go for sale in cooler countries and recommending an unsuitable oil for the uk........mama Mia!

I wonder if they considered the cold winters in Italy and a hot summer like we had in the uk last year when this global rule of thumb was developed?

The 15w 50 figure is the 'one size fits all' recommendation but, if you actually look in the handbook, you'll find other viscosities also recommended depending on the prevailing ambient temperatures. As Evostu says, 10w 40 is fine for the UK.

Flip · 24-03-2019, 11:55 AM

It's funny how times have changed presumably as lubrication technology has developed but looking through my 1997 handbook it simply says to use Agip 4T Super racing which back then was only available in 20w50 grade.

The maintenance schedule back then would have you changing the oil and filter every 3000 miles and doing a valve check at the same, this is obviously why back then Ducati ownership was out of a lot of peoples' reach.

So as oil technologies improved initially Ducati simply extended those figures to bring their running costs more in line with other manufacturers.

The one thing which spoils our old two valve motors from being as good as they can is allowing the valves to go out of their original tighter tolerances.

Incidentally, despite supposed lubrication improvements my old 1965 race bike still runs 20w50 (as recommended by the bevel drive experts) ensuring modern thinner oils do not by-pass things they shouldn't on start up. Obviously correct warming up is paramount not to incur premature wear.

I know when I changed to the Ducati recommended Shell Advance my bike would use a little oil between changes but strangely on Silkolene (same as I use on my race bike) it doesn't use any

So perhaps older Monsters benefit being run on their original grades?

23-03-2019, 07:50 PM	#1
EvoStevo Guest Posts: n/a	What's the best oil Oil filter has failed so I need to replace it and the oil. Book suggests Shell Advance Ultra 4T 15W-50. What do you guys use? Oh, and by the way K&N Filter? Thanks. Steve 2012 Monster 1100 Evo

23-03-2019, 09:47 PM	#7
boris More Tools! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Forres Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 297	Used Shell 4T since venturing into Ducatiland 15 years ago.. __________________ Boris from Forres

24-03-2019, 09:01 AM	#9
Nickj Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Forest Of Dean Bike: S2r Posts: 3,208	I did find this reccomended somewhere on the wub although there were no mixing instructions ... ostrich lard, astro lube, and extra extra VIRGIN olive oil I think that the extra virgin is the critical component. An interesting aside on the Syth / non-synth debate... In Europe Castrol won a court case which meant that Group III Mineral based oils could be termed "synthetic". This gives you varied pour points (consider it how thick/runny the oil is at different temperatures) so Shell Advance Ultra 4 10W-40 is -30C and Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 is -54C. Which means the fully syth oils are runnier when cold, great thing when starting up on a cold day AND loose less viscosity when they get hot. Having said that my last monster ran to 100K on regular changes of forecourt semi-synth. With any oil it's the change frequency that dictates engine life and to a degree the long term cost of consumables. At peak I was changing oil at intervals of less than 2 months because I was doing some big miles (50 to 100 a day) so long term cost became a bit important! At the moment I'm using Shell Advanced 4T as it was a bargain batch and I'm running next to no miles __________________ "The final measure of any rider's skill is the inverse ratio of his preferred Traveling Speed to the number of bad scars on his body." Song of the sausage creature

24-03-2019, 10:09 AM	#11
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,983	Really intrigued by the statement "Oil filter has failed". What does this mean? Has it failed to filter? Failed to stay on? How was it's failure diagnosed? Is it a visible failure from the outside, such as a massive leak or burst? Or a forensic analysis after an engine seizure? Yes definitely use oil. Always remove the plastic film from the top of a new filter before fitting. ...and finally "Oh, and by the way K&N filter?". A statement followed by a question mark. So are you saying the filter that failed was a K&N and you question if this could possibly be the reason for the failure, or perhaps you are questioning how unusual it is for a K&N filter to fail. Maybe you are stating that the filter in question is a K&N filter and the question mark is a typo. Perhaps you are questioning the suitability of a K&N filter as a replacement. Anyway everybody has had a jolly time quoting their choice of oil...Hope you are suitably confused. __________________

24-03-2019, 11:55 AM	#15
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	It's funny how times have changed presumably as lubrication technology has developed but looking through my 1997 handbook it simply says to use Agip 4T Super racing which back then was only available in 20w50 grade. The maintenance schedule back then would have you changing the oil and filter every 3000 miles and doing a valve check at the same, this is obviously why back then Ducati ownership was out of a lot of peoples' reach. So as oil technologies improved initially Ducati simply extended those figures to bring their running costs more in line with other manufacturers. The one thing which spoils our old two valve motors from being as good as they can is allowing the valves to go out of their original tighter tolerances. Incidentally, despite supposed lubrication improvements my old 1965 race bike still runs 20w50 (as recommended by the bevel drive experts) ensuring modern thinner oils do not by-pass things they shouldn't on start up. Obviously correct warming up is paramount not to incur premature wear. I know when I changed to the Ducati recommended Shell Advance my bike would use a little oil between changes but strangely on Silkolene (same as I use on my race bike) it doesn't use any So perhaps older Monsters benefit being run on their original grades? __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you!

23-03-2019, 07:53 PM	#2
Stevedesmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: wirral Bike: S4r Posts: 50	Seriously?

23-03-2019, 08:51 PM	#3
chris.p Gold Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: lincoln Bike: No Bike Yet! Posts: 876	Motul 300V

23-03-2019, 09:14 PM	#4
Ron1000 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Livingston Bike: M1100evo Posts: 867	Motul 5100! I think.

23-03-2019, 09:21 PM	#5
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	On Moto Rapido's recommendation, I use Motul 7100 10w40. The cheapest price for 4 litres at the moment, (including p&p), is £38 via Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/MOUNTAIN-10.../dp/B00IKCY9RK

24-03-2019, 08:28 AM	#8
BobT Guest Posts: n/a	If the book says 15w50 then totally ignore anyone who tells you to use 10w40. They probably have a different engine to yours. Providing you stick with a viscosity and a specification then the manufacturer makes no difference.

24-03-2019, 09:22 AM	#10
holty Registered User Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Glastonbury Bike: M1100 Posts: 96	The handbook does indeed say 15w 50 fully synthetic and I believe that this works in a wide range of circumstances this is what Ducati recommend and their partner Shell have available. However 15w 50 will rob power and on start up will flow much slower than 10w 40 - a more viscous oil is not a better oil and in fact it can be quite the opposite. After much research into oil viscoicity I run fully synthetic Mobil one 10w 40 and change it once a year and or 3000 miles in my 1100ds motor. As for oil filters I fit OE Ducati because they are as good as anything? I have only covered 25k on this engine so to prove my methods it’s going to be a long wait! If you are worried stick to the Handbook.

24-03-2019, 10:09 AM	#12
Evostu Registered User Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Gateshead Bike: M1100evo Posts: 54	I was told,by two ducati trained technicians ,that the book says 15/50 as it's a hotter climate in Italy and it stops the oil getting two thin,10/40 is perfectly adequate in dear old Blighty

24-03-2019, 10:46 AM	#13
Stevedesmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: wirral Bike: S4r Posts: 50	Those Italians hey, what are they like? Assuming that their bikes never go for sale in cooler countries and recommending an unsuitable oil for the uk........mama Mia! I wonder if they considered the cold winters in Italy and a hot summer like we had in the uk last year when this global rule of thumb was developed?