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18-01-2019, 10:21 PM | #1 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Poole
Bike: M900ie
Posts: 472
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Side/prop stand electrics
Hi all, can anyone out there explain how the cut out works from the side/prop stand with three wires? For me having the engine cut when you put the stand down is a pain in the ar.. surely it's not beyond the wit of man or Ducati to design a system where providing the bike is in neutral the side stand can be down? I can't be the only person to think this surely? Bitza.
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Bitza |
19-01-2019, 06:05 AM | #2 |
Transmaniacon MOC
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Sutton In Ashfield
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 6,038
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Bypass kits are used to be available or you could make your own. I have a TPO one on my S4 for many years now and it works great. You can run the engine in neutral with the stand down but otherwise it still cuts out.
I found this for 2000-02 bikes:- http://www.electraeon.com/sidestandbypass.html I'm sure there are others.
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Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage |
19-01-2019, 10:18 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: gloucester
Bike: M900ie
Posts: 133
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Disengaged mine years ago with a 'U' shaped length of stainless steel wire pushed into the existing plug at the stand so shorting out the switch - problem is - it takes time to remember to fold stand up before engaging gears and moving off.
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19-01-2019, 11:52 AM | #4 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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Quote:
Utopia posted some very useful guidance about this many years ago http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=48100 I was going to try it on my 900 but part-exchanged it for the S2R before I got round to it. (I removed the bypass wire first so I wouldn't feel responsible for the next owner riding off with the stand down!) |
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19-01-2019, 12:47 PM | #5 |
No turn left unstoned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: leicester
Bike: M750
Posts: 4,546
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Yep, I've done it both ways.
First I bridged the two live contacts in the sidestand connector, using thin stainless wire bent into a short "staple" shape. But my number eventually came up when I absent mindedly thumbed the starter with the bike in gear on the sidestand .. result was a dented tank. Since then I've been running the diode mod, which can be neater than the bypass kits if you splice the diode between the neutral switch and the sidestand relay. But I should probably mention that since then I've had the occasional glitch, possibly due to an unrelated deterioration in the neutral switch, but which has occasionally had me disconnecting the diode circuitry. Therefore, although I still reckon the diode mod is fine (and probably works in exactly the same way as the bypass kits) there is perhaps a minor uncertainty about it. I mention it for the sake of completeness more than anything but ultimately the choice is yours. The bypass kits avoid this uncertainty but at much greater cost and with a bit less tidiness. Having said that though, the neutral switches are known to be subject to deterioration and I think that is very likely to account for my current problem. I plan to replace mine before the bike emerges from its winter hibernation. |
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