UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Cans, Tyres, Brakes, etc. » Termignoni wobble

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Old 17-05-2018, 09:44 AM   #1
DukeSixNineSix
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Termignoni wobble

Good morning gents.

I took my Termis off the Monster last weekend to scotch-brite the Ba-Jesus out of the mid pipe, as it was looking a bit worse for wear. The silencers slid off nicely, but I noticed when reassembling it that they were a little bit loose.

The hanger that drops down from the pillion seat wasn't the issue, it seems that the cleaning the adjoining exhaust parts has taken away some of the resistance between them.

I've had a look online for some solutions and it seems someone across the pond has had a similar issue with their bike.
http://www.ducatimonster.org/forums/...011-796-a.html

Any suggestions like a high-temp exhaust paste that might help stop them from wobbling?
I don't think it's creating a leak, it's more of a piece of mind thing.

Thanks!
Tom
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Old 17-05-2018, 10:33 AM   #2
Albie
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Sad to say they all do that mostly.
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Old 17-05-2018, 11:04 AM   #3
chris.p
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A little trick I have used in the past is Tin Foil or cut up a Coke ( or other thin walled aluminium drinks can) and put that into the joint, wrked for me.
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Old 17-05-2018, 01:03 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by chris.p View Post
A little trick I have used in the past is Tin Foil or cut up a Coke ( or other thin walled aluminium drinks can) and put that into the joint, wrked for me.
As discussed in 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance' by the late Robert M. Pirsig. A seminal read.

https://www.ft.com/content/9604cfe4-...b-5528796fe35c
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Old 17-05-2018, 07:26 PM   #5
chris.p
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Originally Posted by Darkness View Post
As discussed in 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance' by the late Robert M. Pirsig. A seminal read.

https://www.ft.com/content/9604cfe4-...b-5528796fe35c
To be fair, I have never read it 👍
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Old 18-05-2018, 10:35 AM   #6
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Mines same. I’ve thought about have two new springs/ loops welded on.
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=0&cspheader=1

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Old 19-05-2018, 07:16 PM   #7
Darren69
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Use some exhaust assembly paste on the joints.
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Old 19-05-2018, 07:19 PM   #8
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The exhaust pipe gun gum would probably sort the problem quickly?
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Old 19-05-2018, 09:36 PM   #9
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The exhaust pipe gun gum would probably sort the problem quickly?
It does but; many years ago I used gun gum on my 916 exhaust as it seemed a little loose and was blowing a bit at the joints - worked great but was a real swine to remove them later as everything was solid.

My Monster has high level termis and the link pipes originally had no springs on them so wobbled everywhere. I welded loops on to use exhaust springs and it's fine now.
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Old 19-05-2018, 10:05 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Dukedesmo View Post
It does but; many years ago I used gun gum on my 916 exhaust as it seemed a little loose and was blowing a bit at the joints - worked great but was a real swine to remove them later as everything was solid.

My Monster has high level termis and the link pipes originally had no springs on them so wobbled everywhere. I welded loops on to use exhaust springs and it's fine now.
Good point! Though these days there are solvents to disolve pratically anything. Plus I don't know how to weld.
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Old 20-05-2018, 03:55 AM   #11
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When I put my exhausts back together after a winter polish I use this Wurth hi temp silicone paste.
Two years ago I bought a Hawk exhaust for my triumph and the Wurth came with it.
The exhaust came from a dealer over on your side of the pond oddly enough but the Wurth or anything similar will take up that space nicely.
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Old 20-05-2018, 07:09 AM   #12
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Ducati have a part number for Holts fire gum
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Old 20-05-2018, 12:09 PM   #13
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I got a length of thin, heat/fire resistant rope of the type used for sealing around doors on woodstoves etc.
I cut a length of this, removed the cans and shoved it down the gap between the double-walled section of pipe at the header/can joint.
When reassembled, the end of the can inlet stub then butts up and seals against the rope.
This is on a high level termi system and I have added loops and springs to the joint, to hold the cans firmly against the rope seal.
The nice thing about this method is that the cans can be removed and refitted very easily without having to fiddle with the seal each time.
The thinnest fire rope I could find was too fat to fit down the narrow gap but this stuff is constructed of a braided outer sheath around a multi-strand core and after removing the core, the outer braided sheath was just right for a neat fit.

Although this gives a better seal, it probably doesn't totally eliminate the wobble (particularly on low level cans, I imagine), but the springs do hold everything much more firmly.
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