Oil Change

05-12-2017, 05:15 PM

I am doing my own servicing on my S4r, now.

I don't think that anyone has ever cleaned out the oil mesh filter before - and I have had the bike from new, in 2005!

Question: I've taken the outer plug off and the small bolt that goes into the thread from below. So, I can see the filter but I can't remove it. It looks like the same hex socket fits it as the outer plug but it is in tight. The manual is not helpful and I don't want to force things. Has anyone done this before? Do I use the hex socket to put in a good anti-clockwise force? So, it is screwed in? I thought that the bottom bolt was just to hold it in position.

Any advice appreciated.

slob · 05-12-2017, 07:10 PM

The little allen bolt below doesn’t need to come out, it’s just a blanking plug at the end of an oilway drilling. Once you’ve removed the end cap, the pre-filter screen comes out using a very large allen key or hex car drainplug wrench (I think 14mm from memory). Turn anti-clockwise to remove. Yes they are often very tight, be careful: when it goes, it’s easy to skin your knuckles etc. Ideally use a new crush washer for the end cap, you just need to nip up the pre-filter screen and be careful not to overtighten the end cap.

Luddite · 05-12-2017, 07:28 PM

This may or may not be important but just so you know, the washer for the gauze filter (85250051A) has a flat side and a tapered side. The flat side should go against the engine case.

05-12-2017, 09:40 PM

Yes, it is 14mm, and, yes, it's in there tight. I can safely put on a lot of torque but I wanted to check it was right to unscrew it. I've got the official manual, but it just says 'release and withdraw the filter'. Not unscrew it.

I am at Riders tomorrow and so I'll get a new washer. I didn't notice that it was different on the sides, so thanks for that. I'v got the correct toque values in the manual for re-assembly.

Thanks for all the help.

06-12-2017, 07:34 PM

All finished. The filter was quite clean, so maybe it has been cleaned before - or the engine is pretty good for 18,000 miles.

Got the belts to do on my ST2, next. It has got a strange 'won't start' problem. I would like to talk about my ST3, as well. But I won't! I take it that it is just Monsters here.

Zimbo · 09-12-2017, 10:10 AM

The ST is pretty much a monster with a fairing, I have an ST3 as well as the ‘everyday’ bike as I like the convenience of a top box.

05-12-2017, 05:15 PM	#1
Perryl Guest Posts: n/a	Oil Change I am doing my own servicing on my S4r, now. I don't think that anyone has ever cleaned out the oil mesh filter before - and I have had the bike from new, in 2005! Question: I've taken the outer plug off and the small bolt that goes into the thread from below. So, I can see the filter but I can't remove it. It looks like the same hex socket fits it as the outer plug but it is in tight. The manual is not helpful and I don't want to force things. Has anyone done this before? Do I use the hex socket to put in a good anti-clockwise force? So, it is screwed in? I thought that the bottom bolt was just to hold it in position. Any advice appreciated.

05-12-2017, 07:10 PM	#2
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,736	The little allen bolt below doesn’t need to come out, it’s just a blanking plug at the end of an oilway drilling. Once you’ve removed the end cap, the pre-filter screen comes out using a very large allen key or hex car drainplug wrench (I think 14mm from memory). Turn anti-clockwise to remove. Yes they are often very tight, be careful: when it goes, it’s easy to skin your knuckles etc. Ideally use a new crush washer for the end cap, you just need to nip up the pre-filter screen and be careful not to overtighten the end cap. Last edited by slob; 05-12-2017 at 07:14 PM.. Reason: link added

06-12-2017, 07:34 PM	#5
Perryl Guest Posts: n/a	All Done. All finished. The filter was quite clean, so maybe it has been cleaned before - or the engine is pretty good for 18,000 miles. Got the belts to do on my ST2, next. It has got a strange 'won't start' problem. I would like to talk about my ST3, as well. But I won't! I take it that it is just Monsters here.

05-12-2017, 07:28 PM	#3
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	This may or may not be important but just so you know, the washer for the gauze filter (85250051A) has a flat side and a tapered side. The flat side should go against the engine case.

05-12-2017, 09:40 PM	#4
Perryl Guest Posts: n/a	Yes, it is 14mm, and, yes, it's in there tight. I can safely put on a lot of torque but I wanted to check it was right to unscrew it. I've got the official manual, but it just says 'release and withdraw the filter'. Not unscrew it. I am at Riders tomorrow and so I'll get a new washer. I didn't notice that it was different on the sides, so thanks for that. I'v got the correct toque values in the manual for re-assembly. Thanks for all the help.

09-12-2017, 10:10 AM	#6
Zimbo Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Stonehouse, Glos Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 2,085	The ST is pretty much a monster with a fairing, I have an ST3 as well as the ‘everyday’ bike as I like the convenience of a top box.