1993 M900- It begins..... - Page 3

30-04-2014, 08:29 AM

I checked the torque on my engine bolts over the weekend (and just now checked the parts fiche)
Front bolt is through engine with nut at the other end
Rear bolt has no nut but should have a washer and then and bolts into the thread inside the frame lug.

utopia · 30-04-2014, 01:35 PM

Hmmm, a timely reminder that I should really have a look at my engine bolts by now.
A regreasing, and/or a change to stainless seems to be in order.
So I guess that's crash bungs as well, maybe.
Any excuse for a mod.

Good luck with the hammers.

30-04-2014, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by utopia

So I guess that's crash bungs as well, maybe.

..but that is a weight gain!

Dirty · 30-04-2014, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrD

..but that is a weight gain!

And a vote of no confidence

spacemonkey · 30-04-2014, 11:18 PM

Still refusing to budge- so two options left- heat the block a few times with the ATF mix after, repeat a few times, and if that fails, then just remove the barrels in situ and paint the block in situ as well. Not ideal, but not much choice..

spacemonkey · 07-05-2014, 11:49 PM

Ok, so I can't seem to be able to get a blowtorch into where I want it as there's too much other stuff there that can be damaged. So I might want to paint the block in situ- which I guess would involve removing the swing arm to get to the back and supporting the rear of the frame on a large block. At the mo' the swing arm is part drifted out and on a paddock stand and the engine is on wood blocks. It's all very greasy and dirty though and I'm not happy that it will be easy to clean and strip off being down on the floor in my garage. I have a dodgy knee so can't spend much time that far down nowadays..

Any advice?

utopia · 08-05-2014, 02:33 AM

Googling around, it seems that the acetic acid in white vinegar is a solvent for oxides of zinc.
Presumably its the swollen corrosion of the zinc plating that's causing the problem.
I'm guessing you've perhaps already tried this, but I thought it worth a mention just in case.

I assume you're also familiar with those plumber's heat proof mats.

Rally · 08-05-2014, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spacemonkey

Ok, so I can't seem to be able to get a blowtorch into where I want it as there's too much other stuff there that can be damaged. So I might want to paint the block in situ- which I guess would involve removing the swing arm to get to the back and supporting the rear of the frame on a large block. At the mo' the swing arm is part drifted out and on a paddock stand and the engine is on wood blocks. It's all very greasy and dirty though and I'm not happy that it will be easy to clean and strip off being down on the floor in my garage. I have a dodgy knee so can't spend much time that far down nowadays..

Any advice?

You should invest in a hydraulic bike stand. They make life so much easier for working on bikes at the desired level. I wouldn't be without mine now.

08-05-2014, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedro

Good work that man!

If Crust pulls his finger out we can get at least 3 1993 bikes together!

Ped

Make that four!

spacemonkey · 08-05-2014, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by utopia

Googling around, it seems that the acetic acid in white vinegar is a solvent for oxides of zinc.
Presumably its the swollen corrosion of the zinc plating that's causing the problem.
I'm guessing you've perhaps already tried this, but I thought it worth a mention just in case.

I assume you're also familiar with those plumber's heat proof mats.

Thought about all kinds of things to free the corrosion, but it's getting the fluid into the corrosion which is within the engine block where the bolts go. Some dummy put a frame in the way!

I have heat mats but I'm thinking I might remove the heads etc and fix them and paint the block in situ then reassemble and finish the rebuild and try to remove the bolts once the engine has been thoroughly thrashed and hot, then replace with new bolts which are properly protected with the right kind of grease.

08-05-2014, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spacemonkey

Thought about all kinds of things to free the corrosion, but it's getting the fluid into the corrosion which is within the engine block where the bolts go. Some dummy put a frame in the way!

I have heat mats but I'm thinking I might remove the heads etc and fix them and paint the block in situ then reassemble and finish the rebuild and try to remove the bolts once the engine has been thoroughly thrashed and hot, then replace with new bolts which are properly protected with the right kind of grease.

Sounds like you are having as much fun as the mechanic did when trying to remove the broken engine stud bolts from the front cylinder on mine

Dirty · 08-05-2014, 06:50 PM

I think I've spotted the problem. How big is your hammer. Whatever the answer, you need a bigger one

utopia · 08-05-2014, 10:40 PM

I was wondering if you could lay the whole thing on its side and let gravity assist the flow of vinegar, possibly over a few days......?
Maybe even attack it from both sides.

And/or even........take a deep breath.....drill a hole or two laterally in the crankcases to get the vinegar in to the central area ?

I reckon if you rebuild it with the bolt still stuck it'll stay stuck.

Albie · 08-05-2014, 10:52 PM

That bolt has to come out. Its a necessity. Started so needs finishing properly. Drill the bolt sticking out through and the nut if not threaded into the frame drift punch if you can the bolt back and fro to start the corrosion loosening. mainly the threaded end but not too much to avoid spreading

spacemonkey · 09-05-2014, 12:13 AM

I did think of that but am worried by two thing- first, the bolt heads- I'm worried about drilling into the frame by accident. Ok, I could shear them on purpose as the bolt heads move a few degrees, but I'm scared to do that in case I CAN'T get the remaining bolt parts out. Secondly, the rear bolt is threaded into the frame I believe so that in itself can cause problems I'm sure as I don't want to mess with the frame.

30-04-2014, 11:18 PM	#35
spacemonkey I see dead people. Join Date: May 2003 Location: Carving a slice thru the braindead masses..(pun intended) Bike: M900 Posts: 1,464	Still refusing to budge- so two options left- heat the block a few times with the ATF mix after, repeat a few times, and if that fails, then just remove the barrels in situ and paint the block in situ as well. Not ideal, but not much choice.. __________________ http://www.jasperfforde.com/swindon/7wonders.html

07-05-2014, 11:49 PM	#36
spacemonkey I see dead people. Join Date: May 2003 Location: Carving a slice thru the braindead masses..(pun intended) Bike: M900 Posts: 1,464	Ok, so I can't seem to be able to get a blowtorch into where I want it as there's too much other stuff there that can be damaged. So I might want to paint the block in situ- which I guess would involve removing the swing arm to get to the back and supporting the rear of the frame on a large block. At the mo' the swing arm is part drifted out and on a paddock stand and the engine is on wood blocks. It's all very greasy and dirty though and I'm not happy that it will be easy to clean and strip off being down on the floor in my garage. I have a dodgy knee so can't spend much time that far down nowadays.. Any advice? __________________ http://www.jasperfforde.com/swindon/7wonders.html

08-05-2014, 06:50 PM	#42
Dirty Bockloks Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: London Bike: No Bike Yet! Posts: 4,601	I think I've spotted the problem. How big is your hammer. Whatever the answer, you need a bigger one __________________ Wounds heal, chicks dig scars, glory lasts forever Beware of eBay

08-05-2014, 10:52 PM	#44
Albie Fanactical volunteer Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kent Bike: M900 Posts: 9,034	That bolt has to come out. Its a necessity. Started so needs finishing properly. Drill the bolt sticking out through and the nut if not threaded into the frame drift punch if you can the bolt back and fro to start the corrosion loosening. mainly the threaded end but not too much to avoid spreading __________________ http://albies93m900.blogspot.co.uk/

09-05-2014, 12:13 AM	#45
spacemonkey I see dead people. Join Date: May 2003 Location: Carving a slice thru the braindead masses..(pun intended) Bike: M900 Posts: 1,464	I did think of that but am worried by two thing- first, the bolt heads- I'm worried about drilling into the frame by accident. Ok, I could shear them on purpose as the bolt heads move a few degrees, but I'm scared to do that in case I CAN'T get the remaining bolt parts out. Secondly, the rear bolt is threaded into the frame I believe so that in itself can cause problems I'm sure as I don't want to mess with the frame. __________________ http://www.jasperfforde.com/swindon/7wonders.html

30-04-2014, 08:29 AM	#31
DrD Guest Posts: n/a	I checked the torque on my engine bolts over the weekend (and just now checked the parts fiche) Front bolt is through engine with nut at the other end Rear bolt has no nut but should have a washer and then and bolts into the thread inside the frame lug.

30-04-2014, 01:35 PM	#32
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,559	Hmmm, a timely reminder that I should really have a look at my engine bolts by now. A regreasing, and/or a change to stainless seems to be in order. So I guess that's crash bungs as well, maybe. Any excuse for a mod. Good luck with the hammers.

08-05-2014, 02:33 AM	#37
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,559	Googling around, it seems that the acetic acid in white vinegar is a solvent for oxides of zinc. Presumably its the swollen corrosion of the zinc plating that's causing the problem. I'm guessing you've perhaps already tried this, but I thought it worth a mention just in case. I assume you're also familiar with those plumber's heat proof mats.

08-05-2014, 10:40 PM	#43
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,559	I was wondering if you could lay the whole thing on its side and let gravity assist the flow of vinegar, possibly over a few days......? Maybe even attack it from both sides. And/or even........take a deep breath.....drill a hole or two laterally in the crankcases to get the vinegar in to the central area ? I reckon if you rebuild it with the bolt still stuck it'll stay stuck.