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Members: 636 | Total Threads: 50,828 | Total Posts: 518,535 Currently Active Users: 1,224 (0 active members) Please welcome our newest member, jaraduke |
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#1 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,853
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Make your own Case Saver
The carefully worded title should not be read as "How to make your own case Saver", but as "Why don't you make your own Case Saver"
It is likely that no two will be exactly alike espesially from model to model, so I highly reccomend making a pattern first. You can base the pattern on the measurements in my tiny (sorry) drawing for starters and see if it's going to work. then modify accordingly. The measurements on I have given are the basics only, and work on my 2000 M900. I am sure that a list of measurements that work for other models will soon be populated. You can choose you own material. I used 1.5mm mild steel for my first attempt. I think 1.5 to 2mm metal is about the ball park for these items. These were never intended to be blow by blow instructions, but I will give you the benefit of my experience with my first attempt. Cut out the shape from your pattern, once happy with that. Drill the holes in the tabs first, then clamp each tab in turn in a vice and bend them at right angles to the blade. If you clamp the tab and not the blade it will not try and bend over the hole, as metal will always try to do. Forming the curve in the blade to fit nicely round the chain is not that hard but requires a little patience. The tiniest change makes a difference to whether the holes register with the screw holes or not, and also give the best clearance from the chain...But persevere. I found with my mild steel one, that firm finger pressure alone was enough to form the curve in the blade. Other metals may put up more resistance, but be more effective when the moment comes. New hand drawing added 2/2/2020 taken from original saver after nearly 6 years service. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by Mr Gazza; 03-02-2020 at 05:18 PM.. Reason: original image hosting failed.. new images added. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Beachtown
Bike: M900
Posts: 2,188
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Nice one- that'll give me something to do with the scrap bits of stainless during my lunch time at work tomorrow.
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You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you! |
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#3 | |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,853
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Quote:
![]() Let us know if those measurements work for you..And how the Stainless bends. Can't apologise enough for the way the drawing has reproduced. I converted it to a pdf, hoping that I could post it in a printable form, but I then had to convert it to a jpeg to post it. That was with tinypic...Anybody know how I can post up a pdf so it will be printable from here? Ideally I would like it to be printable at 1:1 so that it can be cut out from the print and tried. But I can't even seem to get it to pdf at 1:1 from TurboCad...Doh..! |
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#4 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,853
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...........Just discovered that I can print the drawing from here....But far from 1:1.
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Liverpool
Bike: M1100s
Posts: 94
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thanks for this - I think I might have a crack at making one - haven't made anything from metal since school 30 years ago so could be eventful.
![]() how wide are your tabs 15 - 20mm and blade about 210mm |
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#6 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Nice one Gazza
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#7 | |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,853
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Quote:
I delberatly didn't shower the drawing with measurements as it all gets a bit busy looking with Turbocad. I just kept to the important ones. I made my tabs 20mm wide on the basis of it looking about right and also giving me a bit of room to elongate the holes if it all went pear shaped. In the event it was spot on, but I think a 20mm tab is about right, as that is what connects it to the blade, and you don't want that to snap if the blade ever gets Frieght-Trained by the chain. Can't remember the length over all now, but you are in the ball park with 210-230mm I only left 5mm beyond the top hole as any more would show past the sprocket cover, but no reason why it couldn't be longer if you don't mind it showing. The part of the blade below the lower tab can be longer but it gets harder to fit the longer it is. Also the lower portion needs to be kept quite straight to sit on the crankcase web that is below the chain (on my 900) I have tried not to be too specific with anything as you will see exactly what you're up against when you offer your pattern up....Good luck. Last edited by Mr Gazza; 07-04-2014 at 05:58 PM.. |
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#8 |
Old Git
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Cricklade
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 2,832
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Thats hany as I have a couple on my monsters already but when i bought one for my 750ss it would not fit at all so may try making my own ..
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MONSTERMAN |
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#9 |
Bockloks
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: London
Bike: No Bike Yet!
Posts: 4,601
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Just to complicate things a bit I noticed mine has one tab slightly set back from the other. Pics speak better than I can explain.
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#10 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,853
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Not at all Dirty. We need to get all the details of the differences between models posted up here.
What goes for your M600 could well be the same for an M750 too. If you are succesful in fitting one to your 600 it would be good to get the critical measurements posted. |
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#11 | |
Bockloks
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: London
Bike: No Bike Yet!
Posts: 4,601
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Quote:
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#12 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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1100 Evo Version
If anyone is up for fabricating a spare case saver for the 1100 Evo, I would happily buy one as I do not have any skills when it comes to this sort of thing.
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#13 |
Bockloks
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: London
Bike: No Bike Yet!
Posts: 4,601
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Had another go at mine today and it ain't gonna fit. Where the clutch push rod housing sticks out it leaves too little a gap. The saver just about fits in there and even if I could get it micrometer perfect there would be the tiniest gap between chain and saver.
So I'm considering fitting it anyway ![]() |
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#14 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,853
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Sorry to hear it's being such a pig Dirty.!
Well done for persisting with it. It sounds like the 600s and 750s are very tight in there. On my 900 the tightest place is against the clutch pushrod housing too, but I am getting a good 3mm or so I would say, with the guard hard against the case at that point. Utopia has mentioned that his is tight on the 750 aswell, but he runs it okay, can't remember if he said there was a witness on the guard or not? I guess if it rubbed all the time it would be a bad thing, but the occasional touch should be okay. |
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#15 | |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Quote:
Post a dropbox link to the file Gazza, if you want help with the drawings I can do these for you in solidworks sheet metal as a flat pattern showing bend lines direction and angle of each bend. Not sure what the hell your making but send me a fag packet sketch of the finished thing and ill knock you something up to use as a 1:1 template. |
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