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Old 24-03-2008, 05:13 AM   #151
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ive got 916 in my 900 i had to move suspension rocker as when mounted on standard mount it made the back end to high, have fun and hope it gose well
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Old 24-03-2008, 06:25 PM   #152
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still dissapointed

Well I got up this morning with an open mind thinking if it will start it will start from an over night charge. Tried as per usual and just a slight 3 or 4 fires then nothing.
Well enough for a while so went up to GT's to purchase a nice brand new gold chain just to cheer myself up. Had a nice cuppa and a natter about the bike and went home to fit.
All went ok and I am running a 42 / 14. Looks very nice even though I say it myself. The middle chain guard for some reason rubs on chain so I will have to adjust somehow with washers or replace with carbon jobbie if I can afford this year. Is anyone elses a bit near the chain ??

Well after cheering myself up with that I double checked all the electrics.I removed both plugs which were wet with fuel. Not flooded but damp.Checked gaps. So I rechecked the spark. All I can say is that when you turn her over the first couple of turns is healthy and then the spark dies which fits in with why it tries and stops.
Going on what GT said I cleaned all earths and checked ECU connections
as he said if theres not enough juice the ECU shuts down,

It was exactly the same with the same result. So thats it really. All help really appreciated as I slowly losing the will to bother.
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Old 24-03-2008, 08:29 PM   #153
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rule that battery out and hook u pa car battery with loads of capacity, see if it starts with that
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Old 24-03-2008, 10:25 PM   #154
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Yeah my votes with the battery too. At 3 years old enough it might be passed it's best? Like scotty said - see if a jump/booster helps & if it starts ok you could be shopping for a new battery. The chain guard could be rubbing because S2R had a thinner 520 chain as standard - that's assuming the swingarm came from an S2R?

Hope you get it running soon

PS. glad the chain & riveting tool worked ok
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Old 26-03-2008, 05:58 PM   #155
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Yes looking like I may have to. I spoke to guys at Pro Twins yesterday and they were helpful.
Said much the same as you Gary. When I got home I tried with battery charged right up and nothing. It could be the starter motor dragging down the ecu or it could be that the engine has not got enough earthing capacity if the engine bolts are using the frame. I may drop it all out again and start again. Im too fed up with getting so far and It could be just the first thing I reckon I should have done.
I also think a section of the loom is through the frame wrongly as to manual so that too can be righted.
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Old 26-03-2008, 07:51 PM   #156
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Albie, before you drop the frame, get some cable (same size as your earth cable), put a lug on each end and secure one end to the engine earth bolt, secure the other end to a 'clean' connection on the frame (possibly on the back of the pillion foot rest bracket nut so you can touch it uo after).
You now have a verified bolted connection between the engine and the frame.
and you wont scratch the frame when dropping and refitting the engine.
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Old 26-03-2008, 07:56 PM   #157
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Yes I probably will try that. Im going to get som ejump leads tomorrow and also may jump from my astra 1300 cdti. Prepare for meltdown

I have lost enthusiasm this last few days until the weekend.
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Old 27-03-2008, 05:54 AM   #158
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I feel your pain and frustration! As you say, time to chill for a few days and come back fresh
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Old 27-03-2008, 07:33 PM   #159
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More pain or is it an answer

What I mean to say it what happened tonight could be a clue to the problem but am not sure.

When I got home I brought the car in to the garage well the nose , and jumped the battery. It turned her over but same just a couple of fires and then nothing.

So is this telling me its not the battery and it may still be an earthing problem to the ecu. It obviously isn't sparking consistantly. So the next step is I guess either link up an earth to the frame or drop the engine as I still will have to do and strip any paint that may be causing a problem. Or is it a case of I have wired the thing up completely wrong. I guess I could have done.

Only thing thats cheered me up today is that the respraying of tank wont cost as much as I planned but still cant go ahead until it starts.

I got my as good as new wheel nuts of spm23 today and a few other goodies that would have saved me a fortune had I waited. He's leaving for New Zealand soon and is getting the bike crated over there.

So I guess unless anyones got any bright ideas of what I can do or anyone wants to help me , Then I will start taking it apart tomorrow but only what I need to this time. Radiator off and exhaust off and throttle bodies and unbolt top suspension bolts . Is that enough ??
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Old 27-03-2008, 08:18 PM   #160
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Albie,
I checked my frame (engine is out) the inside faces of the engine mounting bosses have a coating on them i.e. they are not bare metal.

There is no need to waste time removing the engine.

Rather, you are going to have to adopt a logical and methodical process of elimination. Don't jump to conclusions or follow gut feelings.

I would start with checking that the wiring harness is connected correctly, check and VERIFY that each connection is correct and secure, Check EVERY connection (even though you may have previously done so) pay particular attention to those connections to devices used by the ecu (sensors, injectors, ignition). Check the connection against the drawing and photographs, look for adjacent similar connections that could have been cross connected.

Be patient you'll find the problem.

Last edited by Capo; 28-03-2008 at 08:47 AM..
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Old 27-03-2008, 08:33 PM   #161
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Thanks

I really appreciate that. Right then first thing tomorrow nite I will take the things I know are wrongly routed since seeing the manual. Its a minor issue but it could be important and could be the problem. So its tank off and airbox and throttle assembly and reroute the loom around the front of the rear cylinder.

Im still bothered why I have no immobilizer light and am worried if this could be a part of the problem. Its another thing I need to eliminate.

I should get the new stick coils anytime within the next few days that I saw advertised. This will eliminate the corroded one.

Im trying to be patient.

Guess what I got given today BTW




A rear standard s4r 42 teeth sprocket that has done 15 miles and a red 525 chain. Could have saved £65 Doh !!!!

Got a spare now LOL

Thank you for your advice.

Andy
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Old 27-03-2008, 10:28 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Im still bothered why I have no immobilizer light and am worried if this could be a part of the problem. Its another thing I need to eliminate.
Albie, this has been bugging me too. May be worth a call to Ducati to find out if disconnecting battery for some time will require the ECU/imobiliser to be re-jigged by the red key? No idea how factory S4 immobiliser is configured, as none of my monsters have one, but it seems odd that your light fails to flash since the re-build. Maybe one other thing to check?
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Old 28-03-2008, 08:45 AM   #163
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I have heard that disconnecting the ECU for a long period of time, causes 'memory loss'. I believe this to be a myth as there is no real technical evidence to substantiate the claim.
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Old 28-03-2008, 09:07 AM   #164
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Im still bothered why I have no immobilizer light and am worried if this could be a part of the problem. Its another thing I need to eliminate.
I would start with this? It seems an obvious place?

Does the key code light function as it should?

Unfortunately my manual covers the S4 with part digital dash which I do not have - the manual covers checking and programming the immobilizer.
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Old 28-03-2008, 03:22 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gary tompkins View Post
Albie, this has been bugging me too. May be worth a call to Ducati to find out if disconnecting battery for some time will require the ECU/imobiliser to be re-jigged by the red key? No idea how factory S4 immobiliser is configured, as none of my monsters have one, but it seems odd that your light fails to flash since the re-build. Maybe one other thing to check?
Whom do I call with such Knowledge. I spoke to Protwins but they come up with no real ideas.

Retskid. I too have the same manual as you by the sounds of it. Bodybag hasn't yet come up with the manual I have paid for a month ago

What I need to know is if the immobilisers off does it turn over or is there nothing. What does it control. Spark or power.

Im just going to try and remove all the electrics and start again. Im hoping I can leave the tank in place and lift the throttle bodys up and out the way.
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