Project M1000ie DS

[slob]

My 620 is '02 and both 1000s '03
I just checked one of my owners manuals and there's no power connector on the wiring diagram,
just 'Self-diagnosis connector' (17) where your diagram shows (18) and (19)?
What year is your SS?

[Nasher]

The SS is 03 and the M1000 is 04.

Both diagrams show the Power connector.

The image a couple of posts above is from the M1000 manual, and as you say is 18 and 19.

In the 1000SS manual diagram it's 18 and 20:

[slob]

Must be an '04 onward thing for Monsters
I guess you got a Bologna special "what wiring looms are left on the shelf?" thing, or it's a late registered '03 model.
I can see that connector on S2R1000 diagram too.

[Nasher]

Considering what else I've discovered about the bike, and what it should and shouldn't have, nothing will surprise me.

[Darren69]

My '02 S4 Foggy doesn't have a power plug, but like someone mentioned and it wouldn't surprise me if it could be a late reg '03 or even '02 perhaps or just a mash up of whatever they had.My '02 has an '01 ECU incorrectly installed at the factory, that's a whole other story.

Croc clips work fine on mine and I suppose I could always use the Optimate lead but that is better positioned on the other side of the bike for charging/trailing wires etc.

If you're planning to do a TPS reset just make sure the TPS is a linear one, I think it should be but then again....

[Nasher]

Darren.

Yep, the TPS is a Linear one, no adjustment slots, so I'm not going to lock up the ECU by resetting it.

I thought about making up a lead to connect to my optimate lead I've recently added to it.
But JP Diag recommend not connecting directly across the battery, but instead connect the -ve to the frame or similar. I'm sure they have good reason, but to me clipping on to the frame is almost the same as the battery -ve terminal.

Although as I said earlier, on the 1000SS, using the power supply plug did make a difference to how quickly the software connected to the ECU when compared with clipping on to the frame or battery.

Nasher.

[Nasher]

MOT'd and taxed today, the ride to the MOT station was the first time I'd ridden it further than the length of my garage.

It passed the MOT, I'd be surprised if I'd missed something, but the ride there and back did highlight some issues.
I had to throw it in the garage and tear off to an appointment when I got home so have no idea as to the causes yet, but the rainy weekend will give me a chance to spend some time in the garage investigating.

It's very difficult to get into Neutral, so I'll investigate:
Have I cocked up the clutch plate stack height when I did the quiet clutch mod.
Is the Neutral switch just sticky.
Do I need to get serious with it by taking the Generator cover off and possibly a crankcase split.

The speedo doesn't work.
It powers up and does a sweep when the ignition is turned on, and the mileage display is active, but the needle doesn't move and the miles covered do not increase.
I'm hoping of course it's simply the rear wheel sensor, so I'll borrow the sensor off my 1000SS to check, and try the M1000 sensor on the 1000SS to see if it's that simple, but my luck isn't that good and I'm sure I'll be tearing into the loom doing continuity tests.
If all else fails I have a spare 1000SSie ECU with the Immobiliser deactivated and a set of instruments from the same bike that will work together. Unfortunately I don't have any matching keys, hence having had the Immobiliser 'done'.

Other than that it goes like a train, and when properly hot is possibly the least 'Slappy' aircooled Ducati engine I've owned.
The power commander is obviously set up OK by the way it rides, but I'll think on a way forward with that.

Oh, and I've got the initial suspension set up way off, so that will also need some playing with.

Nasher

[slob]

most likely a broken wire or duff connector on the speedo sensor.
good thing they didn’t notice while doing the rear brake test.

[Nasher]

I was hoping that Mr Slob, but I swapped the sensor over to my 1000SS this afternoon and it drove the speedo on that OK.

I started doing some investigation and continuity checks and found that actually the issue was a broken wire at the connector half attached to the main loom.

It's a crap design really, the mated connector is held on the frame by a small tang welded to the frame that slots into the body of the connector.
But the tang only fits the Superseal connector from one end, and is welded to the frame the wrong way around from the natural 'lay' of the harness. So the cables exit the connector body and immediately do a tight 180deg back on themselves.
Hence the break.

Luckily I have a quite a few Superseal connector kits left over from my last boat rewire, and the crimp tool to fit them, so soon had a replacement 3 way half fitted to the main loom.
I've bent the metal tang back on itself so the connector now attaches to the frame the right way around.

And it now has a working speedo.

The Neutral issue is going to have to wait, as having had my second jab early this morning I'm starting to suffer a bit and my concentration was waning.

Nasher.

[Nasher]

An interesting aside comes from my investigation of the wiring for the speedo sensor.

I have wiring diagrams for the M1000, 1000SS and SC1000.
All three show the speedo sensor with three wires as below.

BK/V is a Ground shared with several engine sensors and connects to the ECU rather than the frame etc.

The other two wires, Gr/G and R/B in this case, are both shown on the wiring diagram as being connected directly to the instrument cluster.



However on both my M1000 and 1000SS pin 13 at the instruments plug is empty and fitted with a blanking plug like 12, 14, and 19.
The R/B wire doesn't appear at the connector at all.
The Gr/G is connected at Pin 17 as per the diagram.

To find out where the R/B wire actually goes I'd have to strip the loom covering back in several places, but I suspect it goes to the ECU.

So it's interesting that both published diagrams for the bikes are incorrect.

Nasher.

[slob]

Take a look at the clock pinouts for 620ie that I linked to on your ECU thread, that shows pin 13 as nc

[Nasher]

Originally Posted by slob

Take a look at the clock pinouts for 620ie that I linked to on your ECU thread, that shows pin 13 as nc

Yep, so it does, I wonder if the 620 wiring diagram is available anywhere, it will probably show me where the third wire goes.

Nasher.

[Nasher]

I've just had a look at two different 620ie wiring diagrams that I found on line, and both show that wire connecting to pin 13 on the instruments.

Yet the reality, and the pin-out info you posted Slob shows different.

Nasher.

[Nasher]

I finally managed to get a few miles on the M1000 yesterday.

My plans for some images proving it’s actually been out of my workshop under it’s own power were curtailed by the spots of rain appearing on my visor, but I did get @30 miles on it via a variety of roads.

And yes, I’m really pleased, it’s an old cliché, but it pulls like a train right through the rev range.
The suspension still needs some setting up, but that’s only to be expected having rebuilt and changed/upgraded both ends.

I spent many, many hours trying to get my M900 to run right, and fully understood why Blah, Blah has openly admitted on here that he was fed up with it.
But I got it there eventually, mainly by undoing mods carried out by previous owners(before Blah Blah, but after Albie)
But despite the M900 running really well the difference between the 1997 900 Carbie and 2004 1000ie DS is bigger than I’d expect.

I’ve fixed the speedo, which was one pickup from my ride to the MOT station, and having spent a bit of time repacking the clutch pack – again- selecting neutral is much easier. I’ve also now put a new chain and sprockets on it.

The riding position is less radical than my M900 was, but still felt very familiar.
I put Rizoma clip-ons on the M900, bolted down to the top yoke, whereas I’ve changed the M1000 top yoke and conventional bars for ST2 items. The ST Clip-ons are still much lower than the original bars, but higher than the Rizomas were on the M900. The result of which I have to admit was a far more relaxed riding position.
It does however prove just how radical/bad the riding position is on my 1000SS!.

The bike came to me with high level DP exhaust cans and a std(very dirty) filter.
I’ve changed the High Level DP exhaust cans for low level ones and dropped a K&N air filter in it.
It also arrived with a Dynojet Powercommander III USB, which I wasn’t sure of, but having now ridden the bike I’m more than happy with how the engine behaves, and will connect up to it to see what Dynojet map is loaded.
I’m so impressed I’m going to see if I can try one on my 1000SS with the same engine. I thought it was running well etc, but having now ridden the M1000 I know I can get the 1000SS a bit better.
Obviously both bikes would benefit from a proper mapping session on a Dyno, and will both get that treatment at some stage, but I like doing everything I can myself, and want to see what I can do first.

So in summery:
I’ve ended up with a bike that looks very much like my old M900, but is nicer to ride in lots of ways.
I’ve really enjoyed doing the work to it and have learnt some stuff.
Balancing the purchase price of the bike and what I’ve spent on it against the sale of the M900 I’m @£1K better off.

I do still have some fine tuning, and cosmetics to attend to, but that keeps me happy.

Nasher.

[Mr Gazza]

I assume from that, that you've sold the 900 then?

I had a W headed carb '98 m900 before the present Y2K M900Sie and even the difference between those two 900's is quite marked, so I imagine you noticed quite a big difference with another 100ish cubes as well. I often ponder getting a 1000 or 1100 but the 900Sie still has plenty of oomph and never disappoints so I just polish and carry on..