How much oil?

[Dingdong Dom]

Hi, I have just done an oil and filter on my 1100evo, the manual says to check the oil when cold which I have done and it’s at the top line on the sight glass, when it’s hot however the sight glass is completely full. I’ve watched a couple of clips on YouTube that say the correct oil level when cold should be between the lines on the sight glass? Just wanted some other opinions as obviously I don’t want too much or too little. Thanks in advance.

[Ron1000]

[heres where I get told I’m doing it wrong]

I Always just fill it between the lines (top is fine too) and crank it over to see how much it drops by, add a little to bring it back between the lines.

This is done when it’s on flat level ground and upright. I.e. not on side stand.

As a double check…the mechanic done mine at last service. And it is as above.

[Ron1000]

…also the manual tells you how much it holds…with and without filter change so if you’re getting close to max volume and your on the top line then that’ll be the point I’d stop.

[Dingdong Dom]

I have now drained a little and filled to between the lines when cold, run the bike up to temp let I cool down and checked again to make sure it’s between the lines, which it is. Sounds as though you’re doing the same so all should be good. Can’t wait to get out on it again.

[Ron1000]

If the manual says when cold then I’d essentially ignore level when hot. They’ll have engineered in the expansion of the oil when hot.

I’d have thought at least

[Dukedesmo]

Don't know about newer bikes but I wouldn't put too much faith in the manual. Both my Monster and 916 have never taken the full amount claimed, even when the engine has been apart and completely drained/cleaned out.

I always fill mine to the top line, but do check after first running.

My understanding is that you can easily over-fill a Ducati engine and, if you are lucky, the excess will be blown out without causing any damage. At that point, about 3/4 full on the sight-glass, the level will be stable for many a mile. The ace tuners BSD at Peterborough told me this and drained some of the oil out of the ST4 when I took it over to them to cast an eye on, shortly after I'd bought it in 2003. Little did I know at that stage that one of the best Ducati mechanics, Carl Harrison, was much much closer to me than PE!

I guess different manufacturers have different ideas; some specify checking the oil level 30 seconds after stopping a hot motor, while quite a bit of oil is still in the various oil-ways. It all depends on what the sight-glass is actually telling you. Since we are dealing with Ducatis, I'd say go with the above advice.

Nick

[Darren69]

Did you drain it hot or cold? I usually do mine hot then wait for it to drain, cool down and refill 3/4 and run it up then top it up if needed.

[Luddite]

If you're refilling after changing the oil and filter, then, as Ron said, you'll need to crank it over until the oil light goes out to ensure the filter has been filled. I tend to aim for just below maximum.



Then leave it for 15 minutes or so to allow any oil in the system to drain back to the sump. And, as Dukedesmo says, be wary of the manual; in the text it says tighten the sump plug to 42Nm BUT in the torque tables, it gives the correct figure, which is only 20Nm.

As Ron said, the oil expands when heated - I seem to recall the CoE is 0.0007 per 1°C (I remember that thanks to James Bond for obvious reasons!). So, 4 litres of oil at 20°C would become about 4.2 litres at 90°C.

Another reason for not checking it immediately after stopping the engine is the fact that it takes time for the oil to drain back to the sump from all the nooks, crannies, oilways and galleries that it reaches when the engine is running.

I would guess that you'd get the highest level about ten minutes after turning off the engine; most of the oil would have returned to the sump and it would still be hot enough to show expansion.

It can be difficult if you're on your own to hold the bike level to check the sight glass. My method, (working on a level garage floor), is to insert the paddock stand into the rear axle without lifting it. If the floor is level and the front wheel is pointing straight ahead, the bike will stand on its own perfectly level.



It's a bit precarious mind so, if that's too nerve-racking just steady it with your left foot on the right wheel of the paddock stand as you bend down to check the sight glass.

[Mr Gazza]

I always fill the filter up before screwing it on as it saves putting a little oil through the little filler hole and also makes sure the oil pump and big ends get an immediate supply on the first start up.

Who changes the oil in the cooler? When you think about it there is always old oil trapped in the cooler, as the pipes are at the top. I've drained and re-filled it a couple of times but it's fiddly and messy, not very much oil in there either.

[Ron1000]

Luddite braw info as usual

As mr gazza says, I always fill the new oil filter before fitting too.

[boris]

To help with self-leveling, I sank an eye-bolt into the garage wall at mid frame height. I then use a tie down strap through this and the frame as a safety to enables the bike to balance upright. Won't topple to the right side, and if it rocks the other way, it's back on the side stand. As an aside, to stop it rocking back on to the stand i put a small block of polystyrene under the stand foot I also use the strap when putting the bike up on the rear paddock stand as extra insurance..

[Dukedesmo]

I just check the level on a paddock stand - just make a note of how much difference it is compared to upright on no stand (just a little bit higher) and adjust accordingly.

[Darren69]

I just kneel down and grab the bike and pull it towards me until it balances level. Note the oil level and lower it back down onto the stand. Not to be attempted if you have a stupid flip up stand however!

[utopia]

On my 750, I found that the oil level varies quite a lot as the bike is tipped from side to side but varies much less if it is tipped fore and aft.
If you think about it in terms of degrees of rotation of the engine, this is not surprising as it is very easy for the engine to rotate side to side by five or ten degrees as the bike is tipped over whereas a similar amount of fore and aft tipping would require one wheel to be raised or lowered by a very large amount .. perhaps a foot or more in old money.
Therefore I don't trust myself to hold the bike vertical in the sideways plane while checking the level.
On the other hand, I find that its fine to check the level with the bike on the rear paddock stand. The inch or two that the rear is raised has very little effect on the level in the sight glass.
But I'm fussy about the side to side levelling to the extent that I sometimes even drop a spirit level on the tank cap to check the sideways levelling ... it sounds over fussy but why not, its easy enough to do.