M620ie Belt Change

velosam · 09-02-2021, 09:04 AM

This has probably been done a few times before, but I'm chuffed to have got the belt change sorted on my M620ie. Growing up (I was born in the early 80's and Monsters / 916's were my poster bikes when I was 14/15 years old), there was always the sucking of teeth whenever anyone mentioned Ducati's - the old "the belts will need done, it's a specialist job" etc. They were still pretty rare back in those days when everyone wanted a 750 superbike (I still hanker after those too).

I got the Monster in September, the chap was a bit vauge on the belt change, so I looked at it and they were last done in October 2017, along with a valve service and oil change. From the look of the oil that came out, it hadn't had one in that time as it was pretty dark and very smelly.

I've let that drop out. Unfortunately I can't remove the oil screen, it's absolutely solid.

I left the tank in place whilst working, using the prop if I needed it out of the way. The Monster has pretty good access so there didn't seem any need to take it off.

I bought the 2v Laser Tools cam locking tool, these worked a treat to keep the cam pulleys in place - good peace of mind for just over a tenner. Lined the motor up using the marks on crank and cam pulleys then locked them in place, bike in gear. You can see the brown mark near on the pulley matches with the location of the cam tool.

The marks on the crank pulley all lined up nicely.

I'd noticed that the front outer bearing on the belt tensioner pulley was rough, the bike's done just over 13,000 miles but I thought it worth replacing the lot. Four new 62012RSH SKF. bearings arrived from 4bearings. Then I had to use a bearing separator tool to get them off. They were on pretty solidly so it would've been impossible without having that tool.

The new ones went on easier by putting the carriers in the freezer and the bearings over a radiator, with a few light taps of a deep socket sized around the central part of the bearing. Now both pulleys are nice and smooth and I'm confident that they'll last another 13,000+ miles.

I'd marked the old belts and tooth-counted the new ones too so that there was the same number of teeth between the pulley tops - you can see the white dot on the new belt. The new belts are ExactFit T800's, having seen a lot of recommendations on their quality. Service was great, I got a few emails from Stu and they arrived next day.

I then refitted the pulleys and used the 6mm allen key rear, 5mm allen key (between the belt and the top pulley in the pic) front method to set the tension.

I did this a couple of times then torqued the pulleys up. I couldn't find the torque setting in the Haynes manual, however the CA Cycleworks video states 20ftlb, so I used this. I then stuck it in a higher gear and rotated the motor using the rear wheel a few times and everything seems to be nice and free. I'll do this again before I start it. I'm waiting for a new 15 x19 x 1.5 crush washer for the aux plug under the oil screen. Hopefully it'll be here today. I've been following the oil thread but I'd already bought some fully synthetic Shell 10/40 as it states in the manual, so that'll be going in. The new oil filter is already on.

09-02-2021, 09:04 AM	#1
velosam Registered User Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Stirling Bike: M1000ie Posts: 120	M620ie Belt Change This has probably been done a few times before, but I'm chuffed to have got the belt change sorted on my M620ie. Growing up (I was born in the early 80's and Monsters / 916's were my poster bikes when I was 14/15 years old), there was always the sucking of teeth whenever anyone mentioned Ducati's - the old "the belts will need done, it's a specialist job" etc. They were still pretty rare back in those days when everyone wanted a 750 superbike (I still hanker after those too). I got the Monster in September, the chap was a bit vauge on the belt change, so I looked at it and they were last done in October 2017, along with a valve service and oil change. From the look of the oil that came out, it hadn't had one in that time as it was pretty dark and very smelly. I've let that drop out. Unfortunately I can't remove the oil screen, it's absolutely solid. I left the tank in place whilst working, using the prop if I needed it out of the way. The Monster has pretty good access so there didn't seem any need to take it off. I bought the 2v Laser Tools cam locking tool, these worked a treat to keep the cam pulleys in place - good peace of mind for just over a tenner. Lined the motor up using the marks on crank and cam pulleys then locked them in place, bike in gear. You can see the brown mark near on the pulley matches with the location of the cam tool. The marks on the crank pulley all lined up nicely. I'd noticed that the front outer bearing on the belt tensioner pulley was rough, the bike's done just over 13,000 miles but I thought it worth replacing the lot. Four new 62012RSH SKF. bearings arrived from 4bearings. Then I had to use a bearing separator tool to get them off. They were on pretty solidly so it would've been impossible without having that tool. The new ones went on easier by putting the carriers in the freezer and the bearings over a radiator, with a few light taps of a deep socket sized around the central part of the bearing. Now both pulleys are nice and smooth and I'm confident that they'll last another 13,000+ miles. I'd marked the old belts and tooth-counted the new ones too so that there was the same number of teeth between the pulley tops - you can see the white dot on the new belt. The new belts are ExactFit T800's, having seen a lot of recommendations on their quality. Service was great, I got a few emails from Stu and they arrived next day. I then refitted the pulleys and used the 6mm allen key rear, 5mm allen key (between the belt and the top pulley in the pic) front method to set the tension. I did this a couple of times then torqued the pulleys up. I couldn't find the torque setting in the Haynes manual, however the CA Cycleworks video states 20ftlb, so I used this. I then stuck it in a higher gear and rotated the motor using the rear wheel a few times and everything seems to be nice and free. I'll do this again before I start it. I'm waiting for a new 15 x19 x 1.5 crush washer for the aux plug under the oil screen. Hopefully it'll be here today. I've been following the oil thread but I'd already bought some fully synthetic Shell 10/40 as it states in the manual, so that'll be going in. The new oil filter is already on.