Make your own Case Saver

Mr Gazza · 06-04-2014, 07:11 PM

The carefully worded title should not be read as "How to make your own case Saver", but as "Why don't you make your own Case Saver"

It is likely that no two will be exactly alike espesially from model to model, so I highly reccomend making a pattern first. You can base the pattern on the measurements in my tiny (sorry) drawing for starters and see if it's going to work. then modify accordingly.

The measurements on I have given are the basics only, and work on my 2000 M900.
I am sure that a list of measurements that work for other models will soon be populated.

You can choose you own material. I used 1.5mm mild steel for my first attempt. I think 1.5 to 2mm metal is about the ball park for these items.

These were never intended to be blow by blow instructions, but I will give you the benefit of my experience with my first attempt.

Cut out the shape from your pattern, once happy with that.

Drill the holes in the tabs first, then clamp each tab in turn in a vice and bend them at right angles to the blade.
If you clamp the tab and not the blade it will not try and bend over the hole, as metal will always try to do.

Forming the curve in the blade to fit nicely round the chain is not that hard but requires a little patience. The tiniest change makes a difference to whether the holes register with the screw holes or not, and also give the best clearance from the chain...But persevere.

I found with my mild steel one, that firm finger pressure alone was enough to form the curve in the blade. Other metals may put up more resistance, but be more effective when the moment comes.

New hand drawing added 2/2/2020 taken from original saver after nearly 6 years service.

06-04-2014, 07:11 PM	#1
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,976	Make your own Case Saver The carefully worded title should not be read as "How to make your own case Saver", but as "Why don't you make your own Case Saver" It is likely that no two will be exactly alike espesially from model to model, so I highly reccomend making a pattern first. You can base the pattern on the measurements in my tiny (sorry) drawing for starters and see if it's going to work. then modify accordingly. The measurements on I have given are the basics only, and work on my 2000 M900. I am sure that a list of measurements that work for other models will soon be populated. You can choose you own material. I used 1.5mm mild steel for my first attempt. I think 1.5 to 2mm metal is about the ball park for these items. These were never intended to be blow by blow instructions, but I will give you the benefit of my experience with my first attempt. Cut out the shape from your pattern, once happy with that. Drill the holes in the tabs first, then clamp each tab in turn in a vice and bend them at right angles to the blade. If you clamp the tab and not the blade it will not try and bend over the hole, as metal will always try to do. Forming the curve in the blade to fit nicely round the chain is not that hard but requires a little patience. The tiniest change makes a difference to whether the holes register with the screw holes or not, and also give the best clearance from the chain...But persevere. I found with my mild steel one, that firm finger pressure alone was enough to form the curve in the blade. Other metals may put up more resistance, but be more effective when the moment comes. New hand drawing added 2/2/2020 taken from original saver after nearly 6 years service. Last edited by Mr Gazza; 03-02-2020 at 06:18 PM.. Reason: original image hosting failed.. new images added.