Yet another 796 starting issue!

06-06-2020, 03:18 PM

I've had my 796 for over 9 years now and it has always been a reluctant starter, requiring a bit of a roll back and forward to give it some encouragement.

Around 2years ago I upgraded to starter cables (Exact-start) and this seemed to help a little and then last year I decided to fit a new battery as I was still on the original.

I began having a problems around March time with the battery not charging and running on one cylinder. I managed to track this down to the connector block for the rectifier having come lose and melting its self on top of my horizontal cylinder.

Now I am thinking that I have a knackered battery, maybe as a result of the connector block issue. The bike will not turn over on the battery I just get a loud click/knock from the starter motor area. If I use my USB jump pack I can get it to start and once running my voltmeter will show 13.8 volts going into the battery.

My question now is will getting a lithium battery (higher cranking amps) solve my problem or do I have a starter motor issue? Is it needing more amps to turn it over? Do I need a new starter?

Anyone got any ideas?

slob · 06-06-2020, 04:06 PM

If the bike starts OK on your jump pack, it doesn't sound like the starter motor. The click/clunk may be the battery operating the solenoid but not having enough power to turn the starter. The battery should show over 12V when sat idle, this will drop considerably while cranking the engine but should recover quickly afterwards. 13.8V when running is the output from the reg/rec, the question is: is the battery holding a charge.
What does the battery info say when it isn't cranking and doesn't have the jump pack connected?

Press the 'MODE' switch on left switchgear up twice to display BATT info
Battery voltage indicator (BATT)
The battery voltage reading is displayed as follows:
- if the reading is between 12.1 and 14.9 Volts, it is steadily illuminated on the display;
- if the reading is between 10.0 and 12.0 Volts or between 15.0 and 16.0 Volts, it flashes on the display;
- if the reading is less than or equal to 9.9 Volts, the message “LO” flashes on the display and the “EOBD
engine diagnostics” warning light (8, fig. 4) comes on;
- if the reading is greater than or equal to 16.1 Volts, the message “HI” flashes on the display and the “EOBD engine diagnostics” warning light (8, fig. 4) comes on.

Any healthy battery should start the bike OK. Do you ever use a charger or optimate? If you get a lithium battery you may need to change these to suit, adding to the expense.

damien666 · 06-06-2020, 07:44 PM

Don’t forget to check which rectifier you have. If it’s not a mosfet type, you need to upgrade to go with the lithium battery. More expense, but they run cooler and are more stable.
Ideally a shindengen brand mosfet.
I’m getting on well with a shido battery. It has cell balancing and a charge status light.

07-06-2020, 02:26 PM

Just back from good old Halfrauds, I found the E receipt for the battery that was dated the 15 June 2019 last night.

They tested the battery and I'm just about to fit a replacement as the tester found the battery to be faulty.��

Fingers crossed that the battery was the problem, If I've still got a starting issue at least one possibility has been eliminated.

06-06-2020, 03:18 PM	#1
alickswud Guest Posts: n/a	Yet another 796 starting issue! I've had my 796 for over 9 years now and it has always been a reluctant starter, requiring a bit of a roll back and forward to give it some encouragement. Around 2years ago I upgraded to starter cables (Exact-start) and this seemed to help a little and then last year I decided to fit a new battery as I was still on the original. I began having a problems around March time with the battery not charging and running on one cylinder. I managed to track this down to the connector block for the rectifier having come lose and melting its self on top of my horizontal cylinder. Now I am thinking that I have a knackered battery, maybe as a result of the connector block issue. The bike will not turn over on the battery I just get a loud click/knock from the starter motor area. If I use my USB jump pack I can get it to start and once running my voltmeter will show 13.8 volts going into the battery. My question now is will getting a lithium battery (higher cranking amps) solve my problem or do I have a starter motor issue? Is it needing more amps to turn it over? Do I need a new starter? Anyone got any ideas?

06-06-2020, 07:44 PM	#3
damien666 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Leeds, West-Yorks Bike: S4Rs Posts: 497	Don’t forget to check which rectifier you have. If it’s not a mosfet type, you need to upgrade to go with the lithium battery. More expense, but they run cooler and are more stable. Ideally a shindengen brand mosfet. I’m getting on well with a shido battery. It has cell balancing and a charge status light. Last edited by damien666; 06-06-2020 at 07:48 PM.. Reason: Spelling. Doh

06-06-2020, 04:06 PM	#2
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,733	If the bike starts OK on your jump pack, it doesn't sound like the starter motor. The click/clunk may be the battery operating the solenoid but not having enough power to turn the starter. The battery should show over 12V when sat idle, this will drop considerably while cranking the engine but should recover quickly afterwards. 13.8V when running is the output from the reg/rec, the question is: is the battery holding a charge. What does the battery info say when it isn't cranking and doesn't have the jump pack connected? Press the 'MODE' switch on left switchgear up twice to display BATT info Battery voltage indicator (BATT) The battery voltage reading is displayed as follows: - if the reading is between 12.1 and 14.9 Volts, it is steadily illuminated on the display; - if the reading is between 10.0 and 12.0 Volts or between 15.0 and 16.0 Volts, it flashes on the display; - if the reading is less than or equal to 9.9 Volts, the message “LO” flashes on the display and the “EOBD engine diagnostics” warning light (8, fig. 4) comes on; - if the reading is greater than or equal to 16.1 Volts, the message “HI” flashes on the display and the “EOBD engine diagnostics” warning light (8, fig. 4) comes on. Any healthy battery should start the bike OK. Do you ever use a charger or optimate? If you get a lithium battery you may need to change these to suit, adding to the expense.

07-06-2020, 02:26 PM	#4
alickswud Guest Posts: n/a	Just back from good old Halfrauds, I found the E receipt for the battery that was dated the 15 June 2019 last night. They tested the battery and I'm just about to fit a replacement as the tester found the battery to be faulty.�� Fingers crossed that the battery was the problem, If I've still got a starting issue at least one possibility has been eliminated.