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16-02-2018, 01:12 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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Recommended Brembo supplier
Having suffered from warped discs, ("fluctuation of brake effort" per MOT), I looked around for suitable replacements.
A pair of standard discs from Moto Rapido would be £480 so I thought I'd look at a pair of Serie Oro discs instead. They are supposedly a better quality than the standard Brembos and, if they cost less than £488, that would be a bonus. If you shop around, you'll find a pair of Serie Oro discs for £440 at HPS or £410 at Bike Torque Racing. If you're prepared to look abroad, they can be had for around £295. However, last year I bought two pairs of Brembo SA sintered pads for £54 from this ebay shop: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/WSC-Perform...p2047675.l2563, which I thought was great value. So I thought I'd try there for the discs. Although they weren't shown in the ebay shop, I emailed simon@wscperformance.co.uk and he ordered them specially and delivered them just a week later for only £285. Serie Oro, left - OE, right So, if you're in need of any Brembo items, I'd thoroughly recommend giving Simon a try. Last edited by Luddite; 28-06-2018 at 11:24 AM.. Reason: postimage link updated |
16-02-2018, 01:27 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Stockbridge
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,984
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A worthwhile cost saving.
How do the weights compare: The Oro looks a little heavier in the web design and has fewer and smaller holes in the disc itself?
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Original and Best since 1993 |
16-02-2018, 01:40 PM | #3 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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Quote:
1505g Serie Oro 1633g OE Money saved and weight saved too! Can't be bad. |
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16-02-2018, 02:11 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Stockbridge
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,984
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That's a result.
Weight saving usually costs dear, especially on unsprung spinning components! Ask the guys with the carbon wheels what the cost per gramme weight reduction is........?
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Original and Best since 1993 |
16-02-2018, 02:27 PM | #5 |
Junior ah to be young
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 2,058
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That is a result so now to the elephant in room what did they mean by this?
"fluctuation of brake effort" per MOT Of course you fluctuate your brake effort. You apply brakes to slow down, stop, brake in emergency all have different brake efforts but also you may start by applying lightly to apply more to then decide nope lightly is ok. I often brake a bit to then have a car slam on brakes so I do same to then see that I can either go around or car starts going. Never in my life had warped discs.
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16-02-2018, 03:41 PM | #6 |
You Are What You Is
Join Date: May 2005
Location: A Foward Location
Bike: S4r
Posts: 1,948
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What they mean is that the retardation of the disc fluctuates with a constant lever pressure.
It is a misconception that warped discs cause this. Much has been written on this subject. |
16-02-2018, 06:04 PM | #7 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,985
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I have had properly warped Brembos. I checked them with a dial gauge.
I replaced them with Arashi discs for less than half the price of pretty much anything else. They have been brilliant. They can tell a warped disc by the oscillations of the needle on the MOT brake-o-meter. Although it is possible for a slightly warped disc to operate smoothly if it is a floating type. If a bike is left wet and stationary for a while, the moisture trapped by the pads, can form patches of very slight corrosion, even on stainless discs. As these patches run through the pads they can cause a feeling (and effect) just like warped discs. After the pads have shined the discs up a bit, the patches will be practically invisible, but still causing the warp effect. I have found that the best cure for this is to wind the old girl up to a healthy lick, and brake quite hard, but smoothly and for as long as possible at a steady pressure. Don't come squealing to a halt, but let the pressure off gently whilst still rolling. One good pull from an unquotable speed should do the trick. Repeat as necessary..
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16-02-2018, 06:23 PM | #8 |
Old Git
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Cricklade
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 2,911
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standard brembos are crud always warp i have replaced those on my S4 with Arahis and they are brilliant and on my M750 i put Galfers
my 27 year old 750ss has original brembo discs but they seem of better quality than the later ones and slightly thicker by 1mm
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16-02-2018, 07:12 PM | #9 |
Gold Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: lincoln
Bike: No Bike Yet!
Posts: 876
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Strange, I have never suffered from warped discs, not when racing, track daying hard road riding.
May be it’s the way I brake, hard and short ???? |
16-02-2018, 09:41 PM | #10 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Beachtown
Bike: M900
Posts: 2,188
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Quote:
Only problem I have had disc related was on my old GSX-R750WT where the alloy carriers began to wear from the movement of the bobbins. I spoke to my friendly Suzuki dealer who put in a out of warranty claim (the bike was five years old!) for a new pair of front discs and carriers along with a pair of mirrors as they had started to 'speckle' and within two weeks it was approved and the parts arrived at my door. Have always wondered if you'd get that service from other marques but the way Ducati have shunned the swollen fuel tank issue I somehow doubt it. Luddite, I take it you didn't bother asking?
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20-02-2018, 08:51 PM | #11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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18-07-2021, 04:50 PM | #12 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Glasgow
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 279
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I pm’d Vince (Luddite) earlier as I have a braking sensation similar to Mr Gazza, long pulses as I brake slowly to a standstill but perfect braking at speed. New fluid at last service, and Scotchbrited the discs ...to no effect. I’ll give Mr G’s tip a try on my next outing and report back. All bobbins have some free play, a warped disc gives a more of a shudder...this is a languid “pulse”....
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18-07-2021, 06:19 PM | #13 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,985
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Well you have the advantage in your locale that you can extend the braking time by doing it going downhill..
Give the discs a good wipe all round with clutch and brake cleaner before you head out. Good luck.
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18-07-2021, 09:14 PM | #14 | |
Too much time on my hands member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Forest Of Dean
Bike: S2r
Posts: 3,208
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Quote:
So it's long slow braking from speed, the disc wants to be hot enough that you don't want to put a finger on it, some even say a gentle glow is good if they're cast iron but I think that's a bit much for a thin bikes disc but OK for a thicker car disc. There is tons written on this
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06-01-2022, 02:20 PM | #15 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Glasgow
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 279
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Miserable day here so had a chance for a more focused look at the manual and particularly the ABS functionality as my braking “pulse” issue was NOT addressed by cleaning discs or the other “remedies “ kindly suggested above.
It appears that any ABS problems will be shown on the dash by the ABS light staying “on” permanently,until the fault is repaired, my ABS light is functioning normally, would you agree that my slow pulsing issue can’t, therefore be a problem with the ABS ? |
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