Tell me more about S4RS indicators

Just picking up on old threads to work out how to replace all the indicators with LEDs in my S4RS. I'm pretty confused by posts covering replacement relays, multiple & single resistors in series or parallel wired across the bulbs individually, or across the flasher unit (YIKES!) Can anyone tell me if my S4RS doesn't then have a replaceable relay (it doesn't, right?), where's best to fit what size resistor(s)? Is there an accessible common return just to fit one resistor? (NB. I don't know if this complicates things, but my alarm flashes indicators together also.)

[Nickj]

As far as I know you have to either fit a relay designed to cope with the lower resistance of the LEDs or fit an in-line resistor on the + feed to each of the indicators. though it could go on the earth side in which case just the one would do as long as you take the earths from both sides out to a common point. This would probably mean changing the wiring even more.

These resistors are pretending to be standards bulbs, adding the resistance you'd get from one, so will get as warm as bulb would. The best are probably the ceramic block types as they are large and dissapate the heat easily, they're also very load tolerant. If you use smaller resistors then they can get quite hot.

I've just fitted Oberon LED indicators to the front and rear of my bike and I bought the resistors to go with them which is just a simple link between the indicator and the power supply. In the end I didn't need them and I wired them in directly. I was told that the power supply for the indicators is regulated through the ecu on the S4RS and so it just gives the LEDs the power they need. Anyway, they work brilliantly without the resistors.

Interesting Cairojay! I found some nice bright amber LEDs mounted on a board from Superbright LEDs in the states that fit neatly inside the aftermarket Ducati alloy housings. I've only fitted the rears so far. They certainly flash faster, but I think maybe not too fast. So you are saying maybe with all LEDs in place they might regulate themselves OK? Do you know how fast yours are flashing?

I fitted the fronts after the rear ones as I had to drill new holes in the front bracket. The rear ones worked normally independently of each other so maybe it's something to do with the Oberons. the flash rate is exactly the same as the regular ones but I get the impression that its a bit hit and miss. you could try wiring them all up but I've no idea if this would work.

Sorry to be so vague!

Thanks again - I've ordered the fronts now anyway, so will make it all work somehow! I've now got bigger fish to fry with my intermittent cut out (in another lonely post) which is probably down to upsetting those sensitive electrics... If I do get it all working, the inserts look really bright in the DP mounts, so I'll post a photy

Update on this - with front & rear LED indicators mounted & no load resistors, I can safely say the S4RS flashes them at about 150 per minute which I think is not going to make it thru MOT. They look well sharp tho. Also fitted a superbright.com (BA15 18 High Power LED Tower bulb, Red 1157-R18-T $17.95) WOW! Really bright great light, easy swap, expensive but very pleased- recommended.
I'm not confident that just 2 load resistors will work on the S4RS, looking at the wiring diag it seems like the indicators are all independent & I was running 21W bulbs up front (double normal) with LEDs on rear & still flashing fast. So I'm tempted to try a 15R 10W resistor for each indicator - anyone with thoughts on this?

Photos please

[Capo]

Resistors should be wired in parallel to the load. I did them front and back but am gonna try removing the back set to see what happens.

Photos imminent!

What resistors are you using Capo?

[uksurfer]

if it helps, i got Arcol HS25 10RJ on an S4, just wired parallel on each of the rear indies
fleabay purchase i think!

[Capo]

The same as UK Surfer.

OK thanks for update, I'll get some ordered - any neat solutions for mounting?

[uksurfer]

i mounted mine on a little plate cus of the heat, under the seat, HTH

[Capo]

I made up mounting plates and had them anodised, fixed the resistors using aluminium allen bolts, I had to enlarge the mounting holes in the resistors I also used thermal conductive paste between the resistors and the plate, tho I don't think is necessary, some report that they get hot but my observations contradict that, dont forget the current also flows through the semiconductor device mounted on the instrument PCB, its about the size of your thumbnail.

The resistors have eyes on the connections, hook the wires to them then solder, heat shrink over the joint. I soldered both wires (for the parallel conection) brought out as fly leads, you could do it with a single lead and effect the parallel conection elsewhere by the use of a jumpered connector.

For the front I mounted the resistor onto the airbox using two redundant (designed for the seperate imobiliser on the S4) threaded bosses, had to pack the plate out with a washer (glued in place) for the nuts on the resistor securing bolts to clear.

I'm not sure if the S4Rs has this type of air box, here is a picture



For the rear, I mounted the plate on the rear fender, as this is curved, 10mm spacers were required, I used dome headed screws with rubber washers inserted from below to keep out any water that may get thrown up by the rear wheel.