New member in Lincolnshire

[Omar]

I have been lurking here for a while and meanwhile looking for an Evo. Finally bought a 2012 1100 Evo a couple of days ago. Enjoying the bike, a refreshing change for me, although not enjoying the suspension. This is no surprise and it's a common topic on this forum. The rear is 'shocking' in every way. Adjustment seems to do little. Front seems spongy? I will start with a rear upgrade and then sort the front once funds have recovered from the purchase! Some years ago I had a 916 and Maxton sorted that out, not cheap though. A shame Ducati still hadn't sorted the issue by 2012.
Cheers
Omar

[Luddite]

Hi, Omar

Always good to welcome another Evo owner aboard.

You've spotted the Evo's Achilles heel with the suspension but, as you've already noted, there is plenty of advice on that subject here. Have a look at these threads, which you might find useful.

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=52208

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=51883

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=51391

Sorting the rear is quite easy as there are lots of replacement shocks out there to suit all budgets. The forks need more work, either respringing and revalving or something like an Andreani cartridge kit.

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58335

If you're on a budget, you could just try changing the springs for both the rear shock and forks. They're all progressive and will benefit from linear rate springs tailored to your weight.

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=56541

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...7&postcount=32

Keep us informed of any mods you make and let's see some pictures!

[Luddite]

PS your next complaint may well be about the low-speed fuelling, in which case I, and many others on here, will suggest you get the ECU reflashed by Neil at Cornerspeed.

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=54450

[Darkness]

Hi Omar and pleased to have you on UKMOC!

[Omar]

Thanks to you both. Lots of good advice there Luddite. Yes it is a bit lumpy below 4k and I will look to get the ECU flashed. I will give Cornerspeed a ring this week.

Photo. Tried but failed! Its the red one.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by Omar

Photo. Tried but failed! Its the red one.

For posting pictures, you need to use a photo hosting site.
I use www.postimages.org/signup.

Once you've uploaded your picture, you should be presented with these options...



Click on the blue 'copy' icon next to the 'hotlink for forums' address and paste it into your post.

If you preview the post before submitting it, the picture will appear in the preview if you've done it correctly.

[slob]

welcome onboard

[mickj]

Welcome to the forum Omar.

[velosam]

Hello from a (former) Lincs lad.

[makemdan]

EVOs rule....... well after you sort out the flaws. Loads of great advice on here, half way through my bike's transformation, Rexxer, forks and shock in the new year. I did the 14 tooth front sprocket change which helped but as my chain was then at the max adjustment I've gone down the route of standard front and 42 rear. If you want to try the 14 tooth front you can have mine for a fiver Inc postage. It's done about 20 miles. I'll be taking it off next month.

[Luddite]

+1 for makemdan's gearing suggestion. There are lots of posts/threads on the forum debating the pros and cons of smaller front versus larger rear sprocket. I've got the 14 tooth front but will try 15/42 when I need to replace my chain.

One thing to watch with the larger rear sprocket is setting chain tension. With the Evo, (and, I think, all the single-sided swinging arm models), the suggested 61mm - 63mm is not the amount of up-and-down chain movement, it is the clearance between the chain run and the underside of the swinging arm.

Consequently, a larger rear sprocket will have the effect of moving the chain further from the swinging arm so, if you use the original 61mm - 63mm gap, the chain will be overtight so bear that in mind when tensioning. I don't know what the relative diameters of the 39 and 42 tooth sprockets are so I can't work out what the new clearance should be but I'd think another 5mm or so?

The best way to determine the new correct clearance, (and something you can do, Ian, if you're changing your shock), is, with the shock removed, pull the swinging arm up until the front and rear sprockets and swinging arm pivot are all in line. (It's at this point that the chain will be at its tightest.) If you set the chain tension in this position, then at any other point in the swinging arm's travel, the chain will be slacker.

Then, with the bike back together and on the side stand, you can measure the new clearance and use that as your reference for future chain adjustment.

If you do that, Ian, do let us know what the figure is, as it'll be useful for anyone else running the 15/42 combination.

[Omar]

Originally Posted by Luddite

+1 for makemdan's gearing suggestion. There are lots of posts/threads on the forum debating the pros and cons of smaller front versus larger rear sprocket. I've got the 14 tooth front but will try 15/42 when I need to replace my chain.

One thing to watch with the larger rear sprocket is setting chain tension. With the Evo, (and, I think, all the single-sided swinging arm models), the suggested 61mm - 63mm is not the amount of up-and-down chain movement, it is the clearance between the chain run and the underside of the swinging arm.

Consequently, a larger rear sprocket will have the effect of moving the chain further from the swinging arm so, if you use the original 61mm - 63mm gap, the chain will be overtight so bear that in mind when tensioning. I don't know what the relative diameters of the 39 and 42 tooth sprockets are so I can't work out what the new clearance should be but I'd think another 5mm or so?

The best way to determine the new correct clearance, (and something you can do, Ian, if you're changing your shock), is, with the shock removed, pull the swinging arm up until the front and rear sprockets and swinging arm pivot are all in line. (It's at this point that the chain will be at its tightest.) If you set the chain tension in this position, then at any other point in the swinging arm's travel, the chain will be slacker.

Then, with the bike back together and on the side stand, you can measure the new clearance and use that as your reference for future chain adjustment.

If you do that, Ian, do let us know what the figure is, as it'll be useful for anyone else running the 15/42 combination.

Once again thanks for the information Luddite. I need to read more about the gearing options but a 14 front is a good place to start I guess? I will be interested to read which option you prefer.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by Omar

Once again thanks for the information Luddite. I need to read more about the gearing options but a 14 front is a good place to start I guess? I will be interested to read which option you prefer.

If you don't need a new chain yet, go for the 14T front; it's quick cheap and easy to change and you can easily switch back to the 15T if you don't like it.

The 42T rear requires a longer chain (+2 links) so is more work and more expensive.

In theory, the larger rear will give the chain and swinging arm protector, (the nylon slider), an easier time than the smaller front. In the real world, I've done over 10,000 miles on the 14T and only adjusted the chain probably less than half-a-dozen times and there still appears to be plenty of life left in it. I think, unless you're planning on covering 12,000+ miles a year, it's not a consideration.

If you haven't seen it already, all my mods are detailed here http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=55168 pick the ones you want!

[makemdan]

Originally Posted by Luddite

+1 for makemdan's gearing suggestion. There are lots of posts/threads on the forum debating the pros and cons of smaller front versus larger rear sprocket. I've got the 14 tooth front but will try 15/42 when I need to replace my chain.

One thing to watch with the larger rear sprocket is setting chain tension. With the Evo, (and, I think, all the single-sided swinging arm models), the suggested 61mm - 63mm is not the amount of up-and-down chain movement, it is the clearance between the chain run and the underside of the swinging arm.

Consequently, a larger rear sprocket will have the effect of moving the chain further from the swinging arm so, if you use the original 61mm - 63mm gap, the chain will be overtight so bear that in mind when tensioning. I don't know what the relative diameters of the 39 and 42 tooth sprockets are so I can't work out what the new clearance should be but I'd think another 5mm or so?

The best way to determine the new correct clearance, (and something you can do, Ian, if you're changing your shock), is, with the shock removed, pull the swinging arm up until the front and rear sprockets and swinging arm pivot are all in line. (It's at this point that the chain will be at its tightest.) If you set the chain tension in this position, then at any other point in the swinging arm's travel, the chain will be slacker.

Then, with the bike back together and on the side stand, you can measure the new clearance and use that as your reference for future chain adjustment.

If you do that, Ian, do let us know what the figure is, as it'll be useful for anyone else running the 15/42 combination.

Thanks for the heads up on chain clearance, I hadn't really considered that. I'll take the measurements when I replace the shock - Jan/Feb ish probably

[makemdan]

Maybe being simplistic here but wouldn't the new range be the original + the difference between the radii of the 2 sprockets?