Hello - and help! Failed MoT.....

20-04-2006, 10:26 PM

Hi,

I've had my 99 Monster M900 for four years this May but only discovered this website today! My bike failed the MoT on two counts

and I was looking for some clues to make the rectification work as painless as possible and stumbled across a link to UKMOC from DucatiSuite (Lance Busch).

Last year I changed the cambelts and gave my Monster a bit of maintenance TLC. I didn't get to ride out much as we had a new baby (not a motorbike a real one!) and I was doing the new man thing. This year I am planning to ride as much as I possibly can - which still probably wont be a massive amount.... but first I need an MoT pass certificate.

First failure is front brake light switch - which works fine when not fixed to its mounting but as soon as I tighten the little screws it goes all intermittent. I've already searched this one on the forum and decided to try one last time and open it up and look at the contacts. If that doesn't do it then it's the ritual destruction and new switch purchase.

Second MoT failure is slightly more involved but (I hope) only slightly. The rear shock connection to the swingarm has a whole load of play in it and I would guess that the connecting bolt and bush are worn as a result of running dry. Again I've searched the forum but drawn a blank - plenty of problems reported for upper linkage but lower connection seems to be trouble free - except for me! Does anyone have any experience of changing this? And would it be wise to do the job in isolation or should I be thinking about servicing the rear end - so to speak...?

Any help much appreciated and once again hi to you all.
Happy and safe riding - BabyDriver

sidrat · 20-04-2006, 10:30 PM

Hello mate and welcome. If you are going to replace the bottom bushes, it sounds like a good idea to service the whole back end at the same time, if you are going to take the shock out etc, its an easy job as such, its just the balancing of the bike while the back end is out that takes a little cleverness, but i am sure you will manage it

Pedro · 20-04-2006, 11:07 PM

Just had the same prob with the lower shock bolt. There do have a bit of play even from new but a new bolt is Â£3.48 and cured the prb with a load of grease too!

Pretty easy job to do - what rear suspension setup do you have? If you have the hoop, it's roughly as follows:

Bung the bike on a paddock stand and put it in gear. Remove the seat, side panels, hugger, exhaust cans and right hand foot rest hanger. Stick a scissor jack between the wheel and rear subframe and tighten to just take the weight. Undo the hoop top bolt and remove - you may have to jiggle the jack to free it. On the right hand side of the swingarm is an access hole to the bottom bolt - undo this. At this point I undid the pivot bolt and pulled the whole lot out to grease everything. Took me about an hour and a half to do this lot.

While you've got it apart, it may be worth changing the rose joints at the bottom of the hoop. Ducati want about Â£43 each for these but you can buy them from BSL for about Â£10 each

Hope this helps

Ped

gary tompkins · 21-04-2006, 12:58 AM

Pedro has the suspension pretty much covered, but on the subject of the stop switch....

I've had 2 of these pack up on 2 different bikes now, so it's either a naff design or I've just been unlucky? Last one cost me about Â£16 mail order, but not sure if switches on later bikes like mine (2001 spec) are the same as yours? Pretty sure it's a sealed unit too - and as such not repairable if faulty. I think it just presses into a recess in the lever assembly, and is held in place by a small screw.

21-04-2006, 07:19 AM

I can't remember exactly what the switch looks like, but last time I replaced one (on a BMW) I used a Micro Switch from Maplins.
It cost less than Â£2 and I only needed to fit some connectors to the wires to make it work. (You could also solder the wires on)

http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx?...21m4&worldid=3

21-04-2006, 05:56 PM

Thanks for taking the time to give me the benefit of your experience/knowledge - just parts and time required now!

I would never have thought about putting jack between wheel and subframe to take the load off the shock - had visions of ropes from the rafters or trying the step-ladder approach.

The front brake light switch on further inspection looks totally sealed! And a bit weird how it works fine until it's fixed in position - could be me being hamfisted... Anyway it looks like a new one is required.

Will report back on progress.

BTW - anyone on here from Staffordshire?

21-04-2006, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BabyDriver

BTW - anyone on here from Staffordshire?

You could try here...
http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/f...splay.php?f=66
But keep an eye on the neighbouring counties too - there's Loadsa Monsta's in the Midlands.

20-04-2006, 10:26 PM	#1
BabyDriver Guest Posts: n/a	Hello - and help! Failed MoT..... Hi, I've had my 99 Monster M900 for four years this May but only discovered this website today! My bike failed the MoT on two counts and I was looking for some clues to make the rectification work as painless as possible and stumbled across a link to UKMOC from DucatiSuite (Lance Busch). Last year I changed the cambelts and gave my Monster a bit of maintenance TLC. I didn't get to ride out much as we had a new baby (not a motorbike a real one!) and I was doing the new man thing. This year I am planning to ride as much as I possibly can - which still probably wont be a massive amount.... but first I need an MoT pass certificate. First failure is front brake light switch - which works fine when not fixed to its mounting but as soon as I tighten the little screws it goes all intermittent. I've already searched this one on the forum and decided to try one last time and open it up and look at the contacts. If that doesn't do it then it's the ritual destruction and new switch purchase. Second MoT failure is slightly more involved but (I hope) only slightly. The rear shock connection to the swingarm has a whole load of play in it and I would guess that the connecting bolt and bush are worn as a result of running dry. Again I've searched the forum but drawn a blank - plenty of problems reported for upper linkage but lower connection seems to be trouble free - except for me! Does anyone have any experience of changing this? And would it be wise to do the job in isolation or should I be thinking about servicing the rear end - so to speak...? Any help much appreciated and once again hi to you all. Happy and safe riding - BabyDriver

20-04-2006, 11:07 PM	#3
Pedro Ciao, come stai? Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Somewhere Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 4,158	Just had the same prob with the lower shock bolt. There do have a bit of play even from new but a new bolt is Â£3.48 and cured the prb with a load of grease too! Pretty easy job to do - what rear suspension setup do you have? If you have the hoop, it's roughly as follows: Bung the bike on a paddock stand and put it in gear. Remove the seat, side panels, hugger, exhaust cans and right hand foot rest hanger. Stick a scissor jack between the wheel and rear subframe and tighten to just take the weight. Undo the hoop top bolt and remove - you may have to jiggle the jack to free it. On the right hand side of the swingarm is an access hole to the bottom bolt - undo this. At this point I undid the pivot bolt and pulled the whole lot out to grease everything. Took me about an hour and a half to do this lot. While you've got it apart, it may be worth changing the rose joints at the bottom of the hoop. Ducati want about Â£43 each for these but you can buy them from BSL for about Â£10 each Hope this helps Ped __________________ Monster 1200R! KTM 990 SuperDuke

21-04-2006, 12:58 AM	#4
gary tompkins 1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Dartford, Kent Bike: M900ie Posts: 7,241	Pedro has the suspension pretty much covered, but on the subject of the stop switch.... I've had 2 of these pack up on 2 different bikes now, so it's either a naff design or I've just been unlucky? Last one cost me about Â£16 mail order, but not sure if switches on later bikes like mine (2001 spec) are the same as yours? Pretty sure it's a sealed unit too - and as such not repairable if faulty. I think it just presses into a recess in the lever assembly, and is held in place by a small screw. __________________ GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong!

20-04-2006, 10:30 PM	#2
sidrat ex S4rs owner Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Lincolnshire Bike: S4r Posts: 179	Hello mate and welcome. If you are going to replace the bottom bushes, it sounds like a good idea to service the whole back end at the same time, if you are going to take the shock out etc, its an easy job as such, its just the balancing of the bike while the back end is out that takes a little cleverness, but i am sure you will manage it

21-04-2006, 07:19 AM	#5
Trent Guest Posts: n/a	I can't remember exactly what the switch looks like, but last time I replaced one (on a BMW) I used a Micro Switch from Maplins. It cost less than Â£2 and I only needed to fit some connectors to the wires to make it work. (You could also solder the wires on) http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx?...21m4&worldid=3

21-04-2006, 05:56 PM	#6
BabyDriver Guest Posts: n/a	Thanks for taking the time to give me the benefit of your experience/knowledge - just parts and time required now! I would never have thought about putting jack between wheel and subframe to take the load off the shock - had visions of ropes from the rafters or trying the step-ladder approach. The front brake light switch on further inspection looks totally sealed! And a bit weird how it works fine until it's fixed in position - could be me being hamfisted... Anyway it looks like a new one is required. Will report back on progress. BTW - anyone on here from Staffordshire?