M750 Clutch Kit

[motomartin11]

My '96 model has always had a clutch slip issue when giving it a big handful and I'm looking to replace the plates and springs. The standard kit is expensive and I wonder if anyone can recommend a supplier of after market parts please?

[Dukedesmo]

Don't know about the 750 as, I believe is a wet clutch and mine are dry clutches but I would doubt the springs need replacing? - should reduce the cost a little.

[motomartin11]

Yes wet clutch - as the bike is 26 years old I thought it safest to replace plates and springs.

[slob]

you will *usually* get away with changing just the friction plates, ducati only sell full sets ( friction plus pressure plates). just make sure you get the right ones, for wet clutch, not the dry type, as the friction compound will be different. try searching for “newfren” as a manufacturer

[motomartin11]

Thanks. Yes I've seen the Newfren friction plates and they are a reasonable price. Ferodo do a kit with both types of plates but I think I'll go for the Newfren ones then. Cheers.

[Dukedesmo]

As above, I'm using Newfren plates in both my dry clutch bikes and had no problems and you can buy just the friction plates - IIRC, cost was around £60 last time I bought some.

I'm still using 24 year old plain plates in my 916 with no bother - they don't really wear and I would imagine wet clutches have an easier life due to the oil.

A quick look on ebay shows Newfren wet plates are a little more expensive at around £85 but that seems pretty reasonable to me.

[slob]

make sure you get the right model/year!
600/750 before ‘97 are quite different to ‘98 on

[motomartin11]

Thanks. I wasn't aware the early and later model plates are different.

[stopintime]

You COULD try refreshing (cleaning and sanding) the friction plates. The stack is quite often at/over spec height and the slipping caused by glazed plates rather than wear.

[Mr Gazza]

Silly question perhaps, but what oil are you using?

You probably already know that you need a motorcycle specific oil if you have a wet clutch. Car oils are not suitable as cars have dry clutches and so can (and do) use lots of oil additives which clutches don't like at all.
Even if you are using the right oil, a previous owner may have put something in that has a persistent anti-friction additive and has coated the plates. If so a good clean with clutch and brake cleaner and maybe a scrub with a scourer, should put them right. provided the oil is changed to a motorcycle specific oil.. I think it's a JASO number you need to look for?

[motomartin11]

Thank you to all posters.
Yes I'm running a bike specific Silkolene semi synth oil but appreciate the plates could be contaminated from previous use over time. I've now owned the bike nearly 2 years and have changed the oil several times always using a proper spec oil and new filter. The clutch has always slipped a little but never enough to spoil the ride. Just don't fancy more slipping when going for a quick overtake!
I think I've located the parts I need so will get the clutch stripped and inspected and take it from there before spending any £s . I've got a gasket on order. I'll report back once the work is done.
I'm reverting to standard cans and airbox so have enlisted my mate to do the carb set up at the same time as the clutch.
The bike has never carburated cleanly throughout the whole rev range and doesn't run well at extremely low or high temperatures and is not easy to ride around town in heavy traffic so I'm hoping for some improvement there. If the temperature is not too high or low and out on the open road it runs well enough at present though. (Valve clearances were done last year when the belts were changed.)

[motomartin11]

Having trouble getting the friction plates. As has been pointed out the early model ones are different.
Apparently the Newfren ones I have ordered are on back order and delivery could be some weeks away.

[motomartin11]

Update-I eventually managed to source a full set of OE plates from Mdina Italia (at a price) and my mate who is doing the work has reported these have now been fitted .It seems the bike has in its past been left exposed with the clutch cover removed and this has resulted in internal corrosion . The master and slave cylinders were not operating fully due to the presence of emulsified hydraulic fluid. It's all now cleaned , re-assembled and back together and bled up with silicone fluid subject a road test weather and misfire permitting (see my other related post).

[Mr Gazza]

If you have changed to Silicone fluid after previously using DOT4 then it's highly likely (Almost certain.) that the fluid will destroy your seals unless you have renewed them all.
Sorry to be a spoil sport..

[motomartin11]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

If you have changed to Silicone fluid after previously using DOT4 then it's highly likely (Almost certain.) that the fluid will destroy your seals unless you have renewed them all.
Sorry to be a spoil sport..

No- we've been using DOT 5 for many years without any problems.