M620ie Belt Change

velosam · 09-02-2021, 09:04 AM

This has probably been done a few times before, but I'm chuffed to have got the belt change sorted on my M620ie. Growing up (I was born in the early 80's and Monsters / 916's were my poster bikes when I was 14/15 years old), there was always the sucking of teeth whenever anyone mentioned Ducati's - the old "the belts will need done, it's a specialist job" etc. They were still pretty rare back in those days when everyone wanted a 750 superbike (I still hanker after those too).

I got the Monster in September, the chap was a bit vauge on the belt change, so I looked at it and they were last done in October 2017, along with a valve service and oil change. From the look of the oil that came out, it hadn't had one in that time as it was pretty dark and very smelly.

I've let that drop out. Unfortunately I can't remove the oil screen, it's absolutely solid.

I left the tank in place whilst working, using the prop if I needed it out of the way. The Monster has pretty good access so there didn't seem any need to take it off.

I bought the 2v Laser Tools cam locking tool, these worked a treat to keep the cam pulleys in place - good peace of mind for just over a tenner. Lined the motor up using the marks on crank and cam pulleys then locked them in place, bike in gear. You can see the brown mark near on the pulley matches with the location of the cam tool.

The marks on the crank pulley all lined up nicely.

I'd noticed that the front outer bearing on the belt tensioner pulley was rough, the bike's done just over 13,000 miles but I thought it worth replacing the lot. Four new 62012RSH SKF. bearings arrived from 4bearings. Then I had to use a bearing separator tool to get them off. They were on pretty solidly so it would've been impossible without having that tool.

The new ones went on easier by putting the carriers in the freezer and the bearings over a radiator, with a few light taps of a deep socket sized around the central part of the bearing. Now both pulleys are nice and smooth and I'm confident that they'll last another 13,000+ miles.

I'd marked the old belts and tooth-counted the new ones too so that there was the same number of teeth between the pulley tops - you can see the white dot on the new belt. The new belts are ExactFit T800's, having seen a lot of recommendations on their quality. Service was great, I got a few emails from Stu and they arrived next day.

I then refitted the pulleys and used the 6mm allen key rear, 5mm allen key (between the belt and the top pulley in the pic) front method to set the tension.

I did this a couple of times then torqued the pulleys up. I couldn't find the torque setting in the Haynes manual, however the CA Cycleworks video states 20ftlb, so I used this. I then stuck it in a higher gear and rotated the motor using the rear wheel a few times and everything seems to be nice and free. I'll do this again before I start it. I'm waiting for a new 15 x19 x 1.5 crush washer for the aux plug under the oil screen. Hopefully it'll be here today. I've been following the oil thread but I'd already bought some fully synthetic Shell 10/40 as it states in the manual, so that'll be going in. The new oil filter is already on.

Darkness · 09-02-2021, 10:09 AM

Well done, nice and methodical does it! ��

I don’t use the stay to hold up the fuel tank myself, as it puts a twist on the hinge if there’s much petrol in the tank. That’s more important with the steel tanks as they have a nasty habit of splitting, then leaking at the hinge mounting. I use a block of firewood to prop the tank off the rear cylinder head.

velosam · 09-02-2021, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkness

Well done, nice and methodical does it! ��

I don’t use the stay to hold up the fuel tank myself, as it puts a twist on the hinge if there’s much petrol in the tank. That’s more important with the steel tanks as they have a nasty habit of splitting, then leaking at the hinge mounting. I use a block of firewood to prop the tank off the rear cylinder head.

Cheers. Mine's a plastic tank, but I get your point. I think it's already a bit distorted as it sits closer to the lock on one side than the other. I've added a small area of foam padding to stop it rubbing (it was already rubbing when I got it).

I'll have a look at knocking something together so it sits supported straight rather than on one side. There's not much fuel in it at the moment so it's nice and light to lift, but I did lift it once to clean under there when the tank had a fair amount in it and just held it as didn't want to lean it on the brace.

slob · 09-02-2021, 11:42 AM

For future reference, the factory manual (02) lists

Fixed Tensioner 20Nm
Mobile Tensioner 26Nm

both with locktite (eg ThreeBond 1324)

velosam · 09-02-2021, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

For future reference, the factory manual (02) lists

Fixed Tensioner 20Nm
Mobile Tensioner 26Nm

both with locktite (eg ThreeBond 1324)

Cheers, I'll make a note of that.

Luddite · 09-02-2021, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

For future reference, the factory manual (02) lists

Fixed Tensioner 20Nm
Mobile Tensioner 26Nm

both with locktite (eg ThreeBond 1324)

Probably won't make any difference but I don't think threadlock is needed on the mobile tensioner.

(I only remember because it was mentioned in a recent thread started by motomartin11.)

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...nsioner&page=3

Luddite · 09-02-2021, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luddite

Probably won't make any difference but I don't think threadlock is needed on the mobile tensioner.

Just a thought, don't the tensioner bolts screw into helicoil inserts? Perhaps omitting the threadlock is a precaution against accidentally winding out the helicoil?

Mr Gazza · 09-02-2021, 01:47 PM

I think it was me who mentioned that I don't thread lock those bolts, my favourite factory trained Ducati independent doesn't either. I think Flip also interjected that he doesn't That doesn't mean to say we are all right of course?
Yes they have thread inserts from new.

Well done Velosam, I think you have done good.
The little bung under the strainer never needs to come out, but as you have a new washer you might as well put it in and forget about it.
It's worth trying to get the strainer out as it's important to inspect it every other oil change.
Maybe a bit of careful warmth whilst the oil is out?
Be aware that it's made of brass though so wont look too pretty all mullered up.
I'm sure you know the trick of putting a little grinding paste round the head? It stops the socket or spanner slipping and rounding the head. But get rid of all the paste once you've cracked it off, to avoid any getting inside the engine.

I always fill the spin on filter before fitting it.

velosam · 09-02-2021, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

The little bung under the strainer never needs to come out, but as you have a new washer you might as well put it in and forget about it.
It's worth trying to get the strainer out as it's important to inspect it every other oil change.
Maybe a bit of careful warmth whilst the oil is out?
Be aware that it's made of brass though so wont look too pretty all mullered up.
I'm sure you know the trick of putting a little grinding paste round the head? It stops the socket or spanner slipping and rounding the head. But get rid of all the paste once you've cracked it off, to avoid any getting inside the engine.

I always fill the spin on filter before fitting it.

I'll try and crack it once it's warmed up. Haven't heard the grinding paste trick. I'll try that, but it's already starting to distort the head, which is an absolute bugger. I was thinking to tidy it up with a file before I try to go any further.

motomartin11 · 09-02-2021, 03:46 PM

Thanks for posting this up as I'm waiting for an MOT and better weather before my tech savvy mate shows me how to tackle this job .I don't have the confidence to have my first go without supervision as I have nightmares of the engine turning over and or stripping the tensioner threads. OTT may be but I'd rather be safe than sorry!

slob · 09-02-2021, 05:07 PM

You need a deep or semi-deep socket for the strainer cover on IE models, or you risk snapping off the oil temp. sender contact in the middle (ask me how I know ...)

Luddite: I assume yours is from a later manual... my '02 (620/750) manual states threadlock on both, Just checked my '06 (S2R1000) manual and it's the same as yours, not on tensioner, just the idler. Well spotted, the advice has changed.

Luddite · 09-02-2021, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

...the advice has changed.

Doesn't it always?!

velosam · 09-02-2021, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luddite

Doesn't it always?!

!!

velosam · 09-02-2021, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

You need a deep or semi-deep socket for the strainer cover on IE models, or you risk snapping off the oil temp. sender contact in the middle (ask me how I know ...)

Tried wi the a deep socket and a breaker bar but no dice. Will wait until it’s warm then try to move it. As I say, I’ve got to tidy it up a bit first. Probably got a bit over enthusiastic thinking a couple of days of penetrating fluid would get it to budge (it didn’t).

velosam · 09-02-2021, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by motomartin11

Thanks for posting this up as I'm waiting for an MOT and better weather before my tech savvy mate shows me how to tackle this job .I don't have the confidence to have my first go without supervision as I have nightmares of the engine turning over and or stripping the tensioner threads. OTT may be but I'd rather be safe than sorry!

Cheers. I like posts that I’ve found explaining how to do tasks like this, it makes stuff seem less difficult.

09-02-2021, 09:04 AM	#1
velosam Registered User Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Stirling Bike: M1000ie Posts: 120	M620ie Belt Change This has probably been done a few times before, but I'm chuffed to have got the belt change sorted on my M620ie. Growing up (I was born in the early 80's and Monsters / 916's were my poster bikes when I was 14/15 years old), there was always the sucking of teeth whenever anyone mentioned Ducati's - the old "the belts will need done, it's a specialist job" etc. They were still pretty rare back in those days when everyone wanted a 750 superbike (I still hanker after those too). I got the Monster in September, the chap was a bit vauge on the belt change, so I looked at it and they were last done in October 2017, along with a valve service and oil change. From the look of the oil that came out, it hadn't had one in that time as it was pretty dark and very smelly. I've let that drop out. Unfortunately I can't remove the oil screen, it's absolutely solid. I left the tank in place whilst working, using the prop if I needed it out of the way. The Monster has pretty good access so there didn't seem any need to take it off. I bought the 2v Laser Tools cam locking tool, these worked a treat to keep the cam pulleys in place - good peace of mind for just over a tenner. Lined the motor up using the marks on crank and cam pulleys then locked them in place, bike in gear. You can see the brown mark near on the pulley matches with the location of the cam tool. The marks on the crank pulley all lined up nicely. I'd noticed that the front outer bearing on the belt tensioner pulley was rough, the bike's done just over 13,000 miles but I thought it worth replacing the lot. Four new 62012RSH SKF. bearings arrived from 4bearings. Then I had to use a bearing separator tool to get them off. They were on pretty solidly so it would've been impossible without having that tool. The new ones went on easier by putting the carriers in the freezer and the bearings over a radiator, with a few light taps of a deep socket sized around the central part of the bearing. Now both pulleys are nice and smooth and I'm confident that they'll last another 13,000+ miles. I'd marked the old belts and tooth-counted the new ones too so that there was the same number of teeth between the pulley tops - you can see the white dot on the new belt. The new belts are ExactFit T800's, having seen a lot of recommendations on their quality. Service was great, I got a few emails from Stu and they arrived next day. I then refitted the pulleys and used the 6mm allen key rear, 5mm allen key (between the belt and the top pulley in the pic) front method to set the tension. I did this a couple of times then torqued the pulleys up. I couldn't find the torque setting in the Haynes manual, however the CA Cycleworks video states 20ftlb, so I used this. I then stuck it in a higher gear and rotated the motor using the rear wheel a few times and everything seems to be nice and free. I'll do this again before I start it. I'm waiting for a new 15 x19 x 1.5 crush washer for the aux plug under the oil screen. Hopefully it'll be here today. I've been following the oil thread but I'd already bought some fully synthetic Shell 10/40 as it states in the manual, so that'll be going in. The new oil filter is already on.

09-02-2021, 10:09 AM	#2
Darkness . Join Date: May 2007 Location: Stockbridge Bike: M900 Posts: 1,984	Well done, nice and methodical does it! �� I don’t use the stay to hold up the fuel tank myself, as it puts a twist on the hinge if there’s much petrol in the tank. That’s more important with the steel tanks as they have a nasty habit of splitting, then leaking at the hinge mounting. I use a block of firewood to prop the tank off the rear cylinder head. __________________ Original and Best since 1993

09-02-2021, 01:47 PM	#8
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,855	I think it was me who mentioned that I don't thread lock those bolts, my favourite factory trained Ducati independent doesn't either. I think Flip also interjected that he doesn't That doesn't mean to say we are all right of course? Yes they have thread inserts from new. Well done Velosam, I think you have done good. The little bung under the strainer never needs to come out, but as you have a new washer you might as well put it in and forget about it. It's worth trying to get the strainer out as it's important to inspect it every other oil change. Maybe a bit of careful warmth whilst the oil is out? Be aware that it's made of brass though so wont look too pretty all mullered up. I'm sure you know the trick of putting a little grinding paste round the head? It stops the socket or spanner slipping and rounding the head. But get rid of all the paste once you've cracked it off, to avoid any getting inside the engine. I always fill the spin on filter before fitting it. __________________ Last edited by Mr Gazza; 09-02-2021 at 01:50 PM..

09-02-2021, 11:42 AM	#4
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,716	For future reference, the factory manual (02) lists Fixed Tensioner 20Nm Mobile Tensioner 26Nm both with locktite (eg ThreeBond 1324)

09-02-2021, 03:46 PM	#10
motomartin11 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: stourbridge Bike: M750 Posts: 352	Thanks for posting this up as I'm waiting for an MOT and better weather before my tech savvy mate shows me how to tackle this job .I don't have the confidence to have my first go without supervision as I have nightmares of the engine turning over and or stripping the tensioner threads. OTT may be but I'd rather be safe than sorry!

09-02-2021, 05:07 PM	#11
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,716	You need a deep or semi-deep socket for the strainer cover on IE models, or you risk snapping off the oil temp. sender contact in the middle (ask me how I know ...) Luddite: I assume yours is from a later manual... my '02 (620/750) manual states threadlock on both, Just checked my '06 (S2R1000) manual and it's the same as yours, not on tensioner, just the idler. Well spotted, the advice has changed.