Searching for a bracket to fit a high mounted exhaust - Page 3

Foggy · Yesterday, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

Are the shouldered bolts/spacers for relocating the footrests further out to allow them to clear the link pipes?

Yes it would seem so from all the help I've received from everybody on this topic. Just replied to Spuggy above though as I was wondering whether I needed longer bolts for the upper 2 bolts on each side to bring the complete bracket out evenly. Guess I'll find out when I try it.

spuggy · Today, 02:20 AM

Well, let's look at the parts drawing #31.

The top hanger shouldered bolt or "screw" #13 is 8000.62568, it states "QTY 4", and uses #2, "washer", part #852.1.065.1A, also "QTY 4". So the top hanger fasteners are all the same.

On the right side bottom, there's a short screw, #3 on the diagram, part #779.1.178.1A, "QTY 2". Used with a "Washer" #11, part #852.1.099.1A, also "QTY 2".

On the left side bottom, there's a long "screw" #19 part #779.1.093.1A & "QTY 2", used with "spacer" #21, part #716.1.056.1A. The parts diagram says this is "QTY 1" - which I think might be incorrect. Or maybe it isn't. These bolt through the kickstand bracket into the crankcase.

So, not rocket science. Make brackets to hold the cans, remove the footrest hangers, fit the slip pipes, adjust until it looks right, bolt everything up.

Then try to fit the footrest hangers over the pipes.

If you don't have sufficient clearance between either the hangers and the pipes or the swing arm and the pipe, then you'll need to space the hangers out enough to give the pipe clearance while allowing the swing arm to move without fouling anything.

As I would estimate your chances of scoring a complete fitting kit these days pretty much non-existent, Mr Gazza's approach would seem to be the most practical.

Figure out how much you need to space everything out (I confidently predict 10mm will do it nicely).

Making the spacers out of bar stock should be trivial enough. They look to be the same diameter as the shoulder on the bolt, for reference.

To replicate the "shouldered" part of the bolt, more bar stock the correct diameter to fit snugly into the rubber bushing aka the "vibration damper" in the hanger. Drill a hole of the correct diameter to clean the bolt, use fasteners of your choice (eg stainless or Ti, perhaps a mushroom head) and desired length, thread pitch/diameter. Mr Gazza's idea of making them look like the bolts that hold the oil cooler on is very slick...

The factory bolts tell you how much thread the factory considered provided the correct engagement (eg "how much sticks out of the shouldered part?"), just add the thickness of the spacers you're adding.

I seem to recall that the kit also came with hooked springs of a different length to hold the cans to the slip pipe. But pretty sure you can either use the originals or source those easily enough.

Mr Gazza · Today, 09:02 AM

Thanks for a nice clear explanation Spuggy.
To clarify my solution to my lack of shoulder bolts in the first place, here's what I made from 1" ally bar.
Inexcusable dust from a mould making project exposed by the flash! Bike hasn't been used since December and the refresh is still ongoing.

Hopefully that explains things in pictures better than a whole bunch of words (Spuggy speak

)
The dims of the top hats can be pretty much generated from the original shoulder bolts and the head pattern is up to you.
Note that the actual shoulder is reduced to about 1mm all round on the 10mm top hats, so they get a bit tender!
This is a good way of making the bolt length totally adjustable ad nauseum.

Finally here's what a previous owner thought would be a good idea to form a shoulder bolt!! Also some cup washers, original and custom.

Foggy · Today, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spuggy

Well, let's look at the parts drawing #31.
On the left side bottom, there's a long "screw" #19 part #779.1.093.1A & "QTY 2", used with "spacer" #21, part #716.1.056.1A.

Thanks Spuggy, a most comprehensive explanation I appreciate it. My part numbers differ as it's a 1995 M600 but completely agree with the method.

So looking at the parts map on www.bike-parts-ducati.com (not sure what the map number is) my left hand bottom "screw" is 7791181A and the right hand bottom "screw" is 77912061AB. Interestingly part number 77912061AB is the part number for the LH screw on the M900 which supercedes the part number you mention (7791093A) for the left hand side. Surprised because I would expect the LH side to be longer.

Today, 09:02 AM	#33
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,856	Thanks for a nice clear explanation Spuggy. To clarify my solution to my lack of shoulder bolts in the first place, here's what I made from 1" ally bar. Inexcusable dust from a mould making project exposed by the flash! Bike hasn't been used since December and the refresh is still ongoing. Hopefully that explains things in pictures better than a whole bunch of words (Spuggy speak ) The dims of the top hats can be pretty much generated from the original shoulder bolts and the head pattern is up to you. Note that the actual shoulder is reduced to about 1mm all round on the 10mm top hats, so they get a bit tender! This is a good way of making the bolt length totally adjustable ad nauseum. Finally here's what a previous owner thought would be a good idea to form a shoulder bolt!! Also some cup washers, original and custom. __________________ Last edited by Mr Gazza; Today at 09:11 AM..

Today, 02:20 AM	#32
spuggy Registered User Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Farnborough Bike: M900sie Posts: 179	Well, let's look at the parts drawing #31. The top hanger shouldered bolt or "screw" #13 is 8000.62568, it states "QTY 4", and uses #2, "washer", part #852.1.065.1A, also "QTY 4". So the top hanger fasteners are all the same. On the right side bottom, there's a short screw, #3 on the diagram, part #779.1.178.1A, "QTY 2". Used with a "Washer" #11, part #852.1.099.1A, also "QTY 2". On the left side bottom, there's a long "screw" #19 part #779.1.093.1A & "QTY 2", used with "spacer" #21, part #716.1.056.1A. The parts diagram says this is "QTY 1" - which I think might be incorrect. Or maybe it isn't. These bolt through the kickstand bracket into the crankcase. So, not rocket science. Make brackets to hold the cans, remove the footrest hangers, fit the slip pipes, adjust until it looks right, bolt everything up. Then try to fit the footrest hangers over the pipes. If you don't have sufficient clearance between either the hangers and the pipes or the swing arm and the pipe, then you'll need to space the hangers out enough to give the pipe clearance while allowing the swing arm to move without fouling anything. As I would estimate your chances of scoring a complete fitting kit these days pretty much non-existent, Mr Gazza's approach would seem to be the most practical. Figure out how much you need to space everything out (I confidently predict 10mm will do it nicely). Making the spacers out of bar stock should be trivial enough. They look to be the same diameter as the shoulder on the bolt, for reference. To replicate the "shouldered" part of the bolt, more bar stock the correct diameter to fit snugly into the rubber bushing aka the "vibration damper" in the hanger. Drill a hole of the correct diameter to clean the bolt, use fasteners of your choice (eg stainless or Ti, perhaps a mushroom head) and desired length, thread pitch/diameter. Mr Gazza's idea of making them look like the bolts that hold the oil cooler on is very slick... The factory bolts tell you how much thread the factory considered provided the correct engagement (eg "how much sticks out of the shouldered part?"), just add the thickness of the spacers you're adding. I seem to recall that the kit also came with hooked springs of a different length to hold the cans to the slip pipe. But pretty sure you can either use the originals or source those easily enough.