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22-06-2024, 08:32 PM | #31 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Diss
Bike: M600
Posts: 16
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Yes it would seem so from all the help I've received from everybody on this topic. Just replied to Spuggy above though as I was wondering whether I needed longer bolts for the upper 2 bolts on each side to bring the complete bracket out evenly. Guess I'll find out when I try it.
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Yesterday, 02:20 AM | #32 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Farnborough
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 179
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Well, let's look at the parts drawing #31.
The top hanger shouldered bolt or "screw" #13 is 8000.62568, it states "QTY 4", and uses #2, "washer", part #852.1.065.1A, also "QTY 4". So the top hanger fasteners are all the same. On the right side bottom, there's a short screw, #3 on the diagram, part #779.1.178.1A, "QTY 2". Used with a "Washer" #11, part #852.1.099.1A, also "QTY 2". On the left side bottom, there's a long "screw" #19 part #779.1.093.1A & "QTY 2", used with "spacer" #21, part #716.1.056.1A. The parts diagram says this is "QTY 1" - which I think might be incorrect. Or maybe it isn't. These bolt through the kickstand bracket into the crankcase. So, not rocket science. Make brackets to hold the cans, remove the footrest hangers, fit the slip pipes, adjust until it looks right, bolt everything up. Then try to fit the footrest hangers over the pipes. If you don't have sufficient clearance between either the hangers and the pipes or the swing arm and the pipe, then you'll need to space the hangers out enough to give the pipe clearance while allowing the swing arm to move without fouling anything. As I would estimate your chances of scoring a complete fitting kit these days pretty much non-existent, Mr Gazza's approach would seem to be the most practical. Figure out how much you need to space everything out (I confidently predict 10mm will do it nicely). Making the spacers out of bar stock should be trivial enough. They look to be the same diameter as the shoulder on the bolt, for reference. To replicate the "shouldered" part of the bolt, more bar stock the correct diameter to fit snugly into the rubber bushing aka the "vibration damper" in the hanger. Drill a hole of the correct diameter to clean the bolt, use fasteners of your choice (eg stainless or Ti, perhaps a mushroom head) and desired length, thread pitch/diameter. Mr Gazza's idea of making them look like the bolts that hold the oil cooler on is very slick... The factory bolts tell you how much thread the factory considered provided the correct engagement (eg "how much sticks out of the shouldered part?"), just add the thickness of the spacers you're adding. I seem to recall that the kit also came with hooked springs of a different length to hold the cans to the slip pipe. But pretty sure you can either use the originals or source those easily enough. |
Yesterday, 09:02 AM | #33 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,857
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Thanks for a nice clear explanation Spuggy.
To clarify my solution to my lack of shoulder bolts in the first place, here's what I made from 1" ally bar. Inexcusable dust from a mould making project exposed by the flash! Bike hasn't been used since December and the refresh is still ongoing. Hopefully that explains things in pictures better than a whole bunch of words (Spuggy speak ) The dims of the top hats can be pretty much generated from the original shoulder bolts and the head pattern is up to you. Note that the actual shoulder is reduced to about 1mm all round on the 10mm top hats, so they get a bit tender! This is a good way of making the bolt length totally adjustable ad nauseum. Finally here's what a previous owner thought would be a good idea to form a shoulder bolt!! Also some cup washers, original and custom.
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Last edited by Mr Gazza; Yesterday at 09:11 AM.. |
Yesterday, 04:08 PM | #34 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Diss
Bike: M600
Posts: 16
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Quote:
So looking at the parts map on www.bike-parts-ducati.com (not sure what the map number is) my left hand bottom "screw" is 7791181A and the right hand bottom "screw" is 77912061AB. Interestingly part number 77912061AB is the part number for the LH screw on the M900 which supercedes the part number you mention (7791093A) for the left hand side. Surprised because I would expect the LH side to be longer. |
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Yesterday, 04:14 PM | #35 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Diss
Bike: M600
Posts: 16
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Thanks Gazza. In the absence of tools to fabricate the longer bolts I am hoping to pursue your previous suggestion of buying another LH screw (if it is longer) and use it on the right. Problem is no dimensions are specified and they don't know themselves, they just order them from Italy. I won't know until I try it I guess. Might avoid the insulation tape solution though !
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Yesterday, 05:16 PM | #36 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,857
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You already know know how long the LH screws are, you own 2.
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Yesterday, 07:20 PM | #37 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Diss
Bike: M600
Posts: 16
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Yes exactly that's the plan, to try the LH side bolts on the RH side when I eventually start the work buf it won't be until after the Summer. In the meantime I was trying to get bolt dimensions to see if it's feasible.
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